Check Engine Light Double Whammy
July 15, 2006 – 8:00 am by Dan Volkens
Filed under Car Care, Volkswagen GTI, Volkswagen Jetta
Wow, two MILs in one week. I drive a 2003 GTI, and my wife drives a 2005 Jetta. Both threw check engine lights this week.
Thanks to our good ol’ in-house techy, Tekmassa, we were able to scan the codes. Turns out my GTI has the known-to-be-defective black topped coolant temp sensor. So I’ll need to have that replaced with the green topped one.
My wife’s Jetta, a 2005 2.0l, has a funky coilpack. Seems the circuit opened on cylinder one’s coil pack, in turn causing a misfire in cylinder one, which threw another code and made the engine pretty cranky.
Thank goodness however that both repairs are covered under warranty. I just have to work out getting the service appointments scheduled and taken care of in a timely manner.
I plan to take both to Northgate VW, and will update everyone after the repairs on how their service was and all good things like that.
Check Engine Light Double Whammy
July 15, 2006 – 8:00 am by Dan Volkens
I’ve got a 2001 New Beetle and the check engine light just came on–no other warning lights, just the solid orange check engine light. The car feels fine to drive but I’ve read other horror stories of cars bursting into flames right after the light came on. Any clue what this could be?
Hi Julie, since the CEL (Check Engine Light) can go off for a myriad of reasons, your best option is to get it checked sooner rather than later. It can be as simple as a sensor malfunction to major engine problems. But since you stated the car seems fine, it’s hopefully something small! :)
You have a couple options to go about getting it checked out. You can go to most of your local automotive parts shops like Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys etc. and they should scan the codes in your car’s computer for free (those codes reveal what triggered the CEL).
Or you also have the option, which I would recommend, to go to your local Volkswagen dealer and have their service dept do the scanning. It will cost something to have it done at the dealer (it always does ;0 ) but it’s better peace of mind, and whatever caused the CEL can be fixed right there in their shop if you’d like. I hope that helps!
I have a 2002 VW GTI. My check engine light came on in June and that led to the replacement of my coolant temp sensor. It has come on again since then and I always try to tighten the gas cap because I hear that can cause the light to come on. It has always gone back off after a couple days of tightening the gas cap. Then it came on over a week ago and it seems to be sticking around this time. I will go have a diagnostics test run but I just wanted to know if you had any other thoughts on this strange GTI behavior.
Hi Jen, unfortunately the check engine light, or CEL, can be a myriad of different problems. Your only good course of action is to get the codes scanned to discover what the problem is, and make sure that whoever scans them clears out the codes. A recurrent light might only mean that the original problem that through the code is still in the system.
I have an ‘01 Beetle. My question; Is the CEL (or any other code lights) set to come on when it’s time for the engine to be serviced; like getting the oil changed or the plugs replaced, etc? Thanks!
Hi rick, no the CEL will only be thrown when there is a problem in the engine or somewhere along the exhaust line I.E. bad sensor or related.
I have a few issues going on right now with my 2002 Gti VR6. First, its seems that my suspension is a bit whacky b/c when I let off the gas I feel the wheels pull to the right and when i give it gas it will correct and pull to the left. I went to a shop, who named a long list of problems…didnt really trust the dudes…and they fixed my control arm and align. I am still having the same problem and at high speeds its a little scary. They did mention i needed a new steering rack. Would that be the problem and if so what is an average install price. I am feeling like i am getting ripped because I paid $600 just for the control arm and align. Thanks
Hey Dagan, the symptoms do sound like steering rack or something, but don’t quote me on that. :D Ouch! $600 for that is very steep. Definitely go somewhere else. I don’t think you would have paid that much at the dealer, but I could be wrong. Try another place and see if you can get a reasonable rate for the repair!
Hi,
I just bought a 2007 Jetta a week ago, and this past weekend i took it on a road trip (about 260ish miles one way). On my way there, my check engine light came on, but car drove fine so i continued. The next day it was still on, but after i put gas in it, it went off. It stayed off while i was there, but when i started driving back, the check engine light came on again – stayed on through the drive home, but turned off when i got home, after several trips throughout my home town. What on earth could be the problem? Like stated, i just got this car a week ago, and it has 11k miles on it – definitely covered by warranty. The car drives fine and light is off – should i go to the dealership to get it checked out? If i do, will they charge me since i JUST got the car? Please let me know. Thank you!
Hi Margarita, it sounds like you may just have a loose gas cap, which when not tightened enough will throw a CEL (check engine light). Mrad highlighted that problem previously. Make sure that you hear at least three clicks when tightening your gas cap down.
But for peace of mind, you can also go to any one of your local auto parts shops and have the computer codes scanned for free to check for problems that would have thrown the light. If it does end up being something other than the gas cap, I would take it in to your favorite dealer and have them take a look. Everything should be covered under warranty.
Let us know how it goes! :)
I have a 2003 Jetta Sedan. With 77,000 miles. A few months ago the CEL came on and I extract a P2181 code. From the diagnostic, I replaced the ECT sensor and the Thermostat. A few days ago it came back on again. I am beginning to think this is either a water pump problem or an electrical one.
Any history with this code before I spend lots of money at a dealeship?
Hi Kristine, with the water pumps on our generation Volkswagens being absolutely notorious for failing (they have a plastic impeller rather than metal, go figure), I would have that checked out to be on the safe side.
It could also be related to other parts of the cooling system, such as the radiator fans, etc.
just purchased a certified used 2004 jetta wagon 1.8t in feb 2007. haven’t had this car for a year yet and the battery light goes off. had the battery checked it was low but okay. drove the car to scott volkswagon in east providence ri (horrible customer service) and left it. car got checked and the alternator was shot, so it got replaced. went to pick up car and started the car up and the check engine light came on. mechanic came out to check it and told me it was the cooling sensor…he replaced it. while the hood was opened i asked him about all the wires, what looked like to me attached to the battery, he opened the cap to show me what got replaced and the big black wire was smoking (which goes to alternator)!!! he told me oh that shouldn’t be doing that….well duh!! so my car is still waiting to get fixed and has been in their shop for four days. apparently they don’t stock parts…wtf??? car is under an extended warranty but my husband wants me to get a toyota…i think i just might! volkswagon from sales to service at scott stinks!! i think they all think they are working for bentley or rolls royce :(
Hey Nacyh, if possible at this point, I would go to a different dealer. This one sounds completely unqualified to do work on your car, and that check engine light was likely a result of the shoddy work they did replacing your alternator. Try to ask around and see if someone knows a good dealer in your area.
Also, you’re going to have problems with any make and model of car, Toyota included. Maybe not as many, but it’s just a fact of life with automobiles. :D At least its warrantied!
unfortunately dax…i traded “karen” my 2004 jetta wagon 1.8t in for a 2002 lexus rx300. i love volkswagen but there are only a few small dealers in my area. so for my situation (my husband travels alot for work) i need a reliable car and a reliable dealer. i only had one year left of my extended warranty with volkswagen. the lexus is a 5yr bumper to bumper warranty which includes a rental car if the car is in for service longer than an hour. when will volkswagen get wise to the fact that they need to be more customer friendly especially with service hours and warranties. when volkswagen changes in those areas i just might be back but for now it’s good bye farfegnugen :(
Yeah, well you definitely traded up on that one. Good trade! :) I don’t think you could ever go wrong with a Lexus. You’re right on the money about VW needing to change a lot of things about how their business is run from the customer perspective. I thin they’re trying lately, but we need to see some concrete changes. We wish you luck, and hope that no problems crop up for you!!
i got a 2003 gti 20th ann special and the check engine lights flash and it feels like the car is going to die
Hey alex, if your check engine light is flashing, you need to shut the engine off immediately and get that checked out. There’s a possibility that one of your coil packs might have gone bad, which will cause the cylinder it’s tied to misfire etc.
I have a 2005 jetta with automatic transmission and I am having a few problems with it. When I am starting to accelerate for a stop the car seems like it’s having trouble shifting into second gear and the car will make this thud noise and then will shift and kinda jerk me forward and my check engine light will come on. It will shut off after a week and has happened a few times, but another problem I’m having is that my car won’t start so I turn the key again and I have to push on the gas pedal a little and then it will start. This has happened to me twice. Any info would be useful. Thanks
Hi jessica, your best bet is to get your Jetta into a dealer or a local mechanic and have them scan the computer for the codes that were thrown when your check engine light came one. That will tell what is going on with your car. From there, you can have the necessary repairs done at your favorite location.
I went to autozone and had them scan the car and they gave me the code p0118 and said it was my engine coolant system and it also said it was higher than expected for the current engine operating systems. My car has never overheated and they did not say anything about it. Should I take it to a dealer and get it looked at or should I just replace the sensor?
Have you ever noticed your temp gauge running high or moving around a lot as if it can’t get a reading? Or your engine just running hot in general? However, this code doesn’t seem to relate to the problems you described having in your first comment. I would take it into the dealer to have it really checked over well.
hey what up, i drive a 2003 gti 1.8t, an my smart ass decied to rallly it on a random dirt road two days ago, that part was fun, anyway as i left the dirt road for a paved one there was this puddle i decied to go thro any all of a sudden my cel came one and my car felt like it all of a sudden had like 90hp, and putters around.i looked in my book and saw that wen the light flashs it means somethins up with the catalitic converter, but idk if thats it for sure, it blink \s 15 times, not sure if thats usefull either, any way i try not to drive it but dont got a lot of cash so tryin ta figure out wat to do, anyhelp will be much appericated thanks,
kyle
Hey Kyle, you don’t by chance have a CAI (cold air intake) installed on your GTI? It sounds like after rolling through that puddle that you may have gotten some moisture sucked into the engine through the air filter. If so, this is hugely bad and you’ll need to get it checked out right away. You could also have gotten some electronics wet which in turn would flake out the engine.
In any case, I wouldn’t drive it until you get it looked at.
I have a 2002 VW New Beetle. It works fine expect when there’s moisture in the air, like after it rains or a snowfall. When its sort of wet. As soon as I start my car, it will start sputtering and the check engine light will come on. Last year around this time of the year I took it to the dealer and they said the entire front console had to be changed. $600 and 1 year later the CEL still comes on. I can’t forward another car and since I can use public transportation when the CEL comes on I just let it go, but its annoying not having a reliable car.
Hey Brian, as I’ve mentioned to other commenters, your best course of action is to first get your computer codes scanned at your favorite local auto parts shop or dealer. That will tell them and you what exactly the problem is. Then you can approach the repair from there.
Hello, I own a 2002 Vw Jetta and LOVE my car! Last year about this time my MIL came on and I brought it to my certified vdub mechanic and had the catalytic converter replaced, and the front 02 sensor. The light went off for about 1 week. I brought it back to them and they replaced the converter again(#2) . About 3 weeks after that the MIL light came back on again, and I ignored it for a few months (lack of $$ to fix), my car ran fine no cranky engine, it ran smooth. Recently I brought it back and had a rear O2 sensor replaced. The light went out for 2 days and the light came back on. My mechanic tells me to go to the dealer and have my main computer reprogrammed in order for the light to go out and stay out. (Not just clearing the code)
My car runs fine, there is no hesitation my gas mileage has stayed the same, but that light has stayed on – Any suggestions?
Hi Neil, sucks to have problems like that, doesn’t it? I hope that in the course of your repairs with the dealer that they scanned the computer codes that would have been thrown with your MIL to make sure they were making the right repair. If possible, I would try to find that out. It could just be that whatever is throwing the MIL wasn’t repaired, or, as your mechanic said, they need to be cleared from the car’s computer. Let us know how it goes!
I bought my daughter a 2000 Passat and recently the check engine light came on and has stayed on. It just failed the emissions test. We took it to a mechanic (not a dealership, but a certified emissions specialist) and he found 4 ODB2 codes P0421, P0431, P1177 & P1131. He is recommending replacing the 4 O2 Sensors and PCM reflash. The cost is $1424. This seems very high and he says this may not even fix the problem as it could be the catalytic converter.
Any advice?
$1400 sounds outrageous. I would take it to a dealer or another mechanic and see how much they would quote you.
I just bought a 2002 VW Beetle, 1.8 Turbo with 73,000 miles. I have since learned of a 60K maintenance requirement for these cars. I have talked to one mechanic that does work on VW’s exclusivly and he is telling me between t $1200 and $1400 for the maintenance. Is he close on this maintenance cost? Should I just check to see what the cost of replacing the timer belt and leave the rest of it alone? Thanks.
Hi Danr, it shouldn’t really be anywhere near that amount. If the timing chain gets replaced along with all other 60k maintenance items, you’re probably looking at a range more like 400-600 I think.
Thanks for the information! I just found your site today and will keep a watch on it for additional information. It was a great help since I’m clueless on mechanic type stuff.
I have a 2003 GTI VR6 with 32k on it. I was driving to work today and the check engine light came on. I take very good care of it and I only really drive 16 miles a day mainly open highway. My fluids look fine, but my antifreeze is right on min. The car runs just fine and I always check my gas cap, the last time I got gas was 3 days ago. Just wondering if this could be the same issue as you with the temp sensor?
Also just wondering what grade gas should I be buying for it?
Thanks
Well, I decided to have AutoZone run the codes to see what it was and it ended up being the gas cap. Can it take that long to make that happen? I got gas 3 days ago why would it take so long?
Hey Erik, most likely that is the case if you’re not sure it already has been taken care of. In any case, be sure to get the codes scanned so at least you know what’s going on. :]
Huh, imagine that. It could have taken a while for the system to realize that it wasn’t sealed properly… or it worked loose a bit over time since it wasn’t closed tightly…. maybe.
Hey, I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T, I recently changed the air filter and the spark plugs in the car. Started it up and drove it for a good 40 miles. As I was driving something happened and the car is now missing bad in low idle and low speed. The engine light is also flashing. I changed to new spark plugs, and change the coil packs and neither of these did the job. It is still missing. It was fine until I changed the spark plugs the first time. Any Ideas?
Thanks
Amy
My 2000 volkswagon beetle 1.8 turbo had it’s fuel pump, radiator fan motor and belt replaced how much should this cost if done by a reputable repair shop.
Hi Amy, did you buy pre-gapped or made sure to gap the new plugs properly? Sounds like they’re not firing correctly, or there could be a problem with the coil packs or any related part.
Hey Ed, I’m not sure how much on average those repairs would cost. Hopefully some other readers can chime in on their experiences.
i have a 2003 jetta gli, and about a week ago, the check engline light appeared. i thought it was due to the gas cap; however, now that a week has gone by and the light is still on and this morning i was unable to start my car until giving it quite a bit of gas, i believe it is something other than the gas cap. after this initial start, it has started just fine the rest of today.
i went to auto zone, and the on board diagnostic shows code p0420 as the cause of the CEL. This is due to the following possibilities: catalytic converter defect, engine misfire, large vacuum leak, or engine oil leakage into exhaust -valve guide seals and piston rings.
Do any of these things sound like symptoms of why I was initally not able to start the car but then why I was able to start the car each time afterwards?
Thanks!
Hi Kelly, I’m no techy, but I’m sure that if the computer were throwing those codes, one is most likely the culprit, and then the others were probably a result of the first problem.
Hey Dax, I have a 2001 1.8t Wolfsburg edition and absolutely loved the car when I first got it. I bought it brand new, so all the wear and tear has been my own. My CEL has been on and off now for the last 4 years and I have heard a myriad of explanations and possible fixes for my car from the trusty Vdub service men. I have taken it to the dealership every time for the fix and a week or so later the light comes back on. All they have told me at the dealership is that it is misfiring on all cylinder’s but it doesn’t take a genius to figure that one out from all my symptoms. The exhaust seems extremely rich, and my gas mileage has plummeted dramatically, which is not the greatest thing considering the current price of gas. The temperature gauge often gives funny readings, but always seems to run cool, according to the temp gauge. The car idles lows, between 5 and 600, and rough. Sometimes there is a huge lag in the acceleration, and is jerky when I get on, or off the gas. Recently the engine has acted as if it was going to die when coming to a stop and has actually died on me while coming to a stop. The CEL is constant and it has been awhile since I have last had it checked due to the failed attempts to fix it. With this problem I have replaced, the temp gauge, the coils, spark plugs, valves, and O2 sensors, and recently the mass airflow sensor. All of this seems to have been in vein. I have asked about the cat and they reassure me it is not the problem. Has anybody ever had similar problems and possible fixes, or is it time to get rid of the car.
hello, 2002 vw gti 1.8t . i’ll leave the car running for 15 minutes then it shuts off by it’s self then i have to wait till it cool off again to start again i have replaced the crank sensor but that did not work. fuel pump tests fine… replaced coils and spark plugs still acting up sometimes 15 minutes sometimes 1 hour then it shuts off again… can someone help? thanks in advance.
I have a 2003 VW new beetle 2.0 L, I am trying to locate the intake air temperature sensor( IAT)
answer for Chris sounds like you have a Clogged Fuel filter. replace the filter its a cheap fix. It should work.
I have had mt Jetta now for about three years. The check CEL came on about a year ago. I took it to the dealership and they said nothing wrong, and reset the computer. Well it came back on a day or two later and has been on ever since. I have now also taken it to Autozone where they do the free testing, 1st time, they said engine coolant system, 2nd time, they told me I needed to add antifreeze. (My air works fine, and no problems with the car the entire time its been on)
So I go home to add antifreeze, AND I HAVE NO CAP? I looked in the manual and apparently it is a sealed radiator?? I have never heard of this? I just took it to the shop this morning and they are going to run a test to see what they can find out. I am freaking out that I am going to pay an arm and a leg for this!!
Hi Cybill, what year is your Jetta? There should be an antifreeze overflow bottle, typically on the lefthand side of the engine (facing the front of the car) where you would top off the antifreeze. Also, the antifreeze should only be purchased at the dealer since it’s a special coolant that is pink colored rather than the typical green.
The CEL problem could be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor, which is a recall that should be replaced by the dealer. If the dealer you went to gave you a hard time or didn’t seem to fix the problem (they should have), try another one in your area.
Dax
My jetta is a 2003 GL.. I found the overflow bottle but it is full??..it is the pink fluid also. So I didnt add anything.
So if this shop where I took it to says it is the sensor, i should take it to the dealership? And unfortunately there is only one VW dealership here in Tucson, and they are not very helpful!
Hey Cybill,
Ah, sucks that there’s only that one dealership, but they should replace the sensor under the recall free of charge! :)
Dax,
So you know where I would find the recall at. The shop is saying there is not one on there list?
Hey Cybil,
Here’s a link to a thread on VWVortex.com with scans of the actual recall letter from Volkswagen. I hope that helps get the work done!
Hi,
I have a manual 1997 Jetta GT with 163,000 miles. My CEL came on yesterday afternoon when the temperature was in the 90s. When I turned my car on this morning, the light wasn’t on so I kept driving. The temperature got up to 104 today and as soon as it was hot outside and I turned my car on, the CEL went on again! It’s stayed on for the last few hours and now the seat belt light has turned on even though I have my seat belt on. My car is running perfectly and isn’t making any noises, but I’m really worried that something may be wrong and I have final exams next week, so I need my car. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? Do you think I could wait until next weekend to get it looked at if I don’t drive it a whole lot?
Thanks for your help!
Hey Caitlin, be very careful with your Jetta and try to drive it as little as possible until you have it looked at. You can take it into one of your local auto parts shop where they should scan your computer codes for free, or take it directly to the dealer. :]
Do you have any idea what could be wrong?
Without it exhibiting any obvious symptoms, it would be almost impossible to tell without scanning the codes. Have you checked all of your fluids such as coolant, oil, power steering and brake? You will only be able to move ahead on the repair once you find out what codes the computer has thrown. I wish I could help you further! :) Unfortunately, a trip to the dealer or a good local Volkswagen mechanic if you have one is in order.
i got a 2002 vw beetle…engine lights been on like a year with no noticeable prodlems. now its like someone slams on the brakes hard when im comeing to a stop. auto zone said po420 and po354.. i saw someone that had these issues on this web site and wondered what it may be…im not taking it to a dealer …thanks
you ever find out your problem…im still trying to ive got the same code from auto zone… does your car jerk when you come to a stop…my does real bad now and i just cant make sense of it..any info would be appreciated and if i find anything ill let you know..thanks
I have a 2003 vw jetta gli vr6…. i just got a magnaflow cat back exhaust and magnaflow catalytic converter…. since then my check engine light has been on and when scanned, got the error code p1118… what does this mean and how do I get it fixed without out removing my brand new performance parts???
Hey Justin, is it your transmission causing the jerking, or is it the brakes? Here’s a thread on VWVortex.com talking about the P0420 code. That might get you pointed in the right direction for a repair I hope. :)
For yours Bobby, sounds like a problem with the 02 sensor on the catalytic converter. Make sure those were reinstalled properly after installing your aftermarket exhaust and it should fix the problem.
and also, When i shift, or push my rpm’s over 4500, my exhaust is backfiring… could it be the new caT? however a friend has the same exhaust as me and zero backfire… I’m incredibly irritated
Hi Dax,
So i took my car into the shop and they replaced the sensor and a gasket. Driving home that night it came back on! I dropped it off this morning at the same place. He said it is nopw reading Cooling System performance code. He is going to keep the car and do some test that the car has to be cold (so in the morning) have you ever heard of this? or any idea what it may mean?
Hey Cybil, I haven’t heard of this myself, but it does at least sound like you have a reputable mechanic to work with. Hopefully they’ll track down the problem and completely clear it up for you.
My check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago – was only one for about 5 minutes – then went out. Stayed off for about two weeks, but came on again when I was driving home from work. It was on again this morning. I looked it up in the mannual and it said that it was an emissions problem. I have a trip planned this weekend and is a 3 hour drive. I am worried that driving it that far could be damaging. I do not want to break down. Any suggestions?
Hi Carin, your best bet is to take it to either one of your local auto parts shops or the dealer to get the computer codes scanned so that you know exactly what you’re dealing with. Then you can make an informed decision whether or not you should drive that far. Hope that helps! :)
Hey dax,
Just an update on my 2002 vw jetta with the MIL light that wouldn’t go off. My mechanic replaced the catalytic converter with one from Volkswagen and it has stayed off since.
Thanks for your comments!
Great Neil! Glad it’s all patched up. He didn’t charge you a kidney for it, did he? ;D
i have a 2002 vw beetle turbo, about 3 weeks ago the check engine light came on, took it to the dealership, codes 5051, 5052 or 5052B were found. the dealership said it was because i’d installed an out of manufactured radio in the car. a wire and a nut was cut and installed. picked the car up a day later, water was on the the back passenger floor, the dealership said it was a clogged pollen filter drain, it was replaced, picked the car up 2 days, the check engine light is on. returned it to the dealership, the cause this time is a turbo recirculating valve, the valve was replaced. picked up the car once again and the check engine light has returned. each invoice shows the same codes as before. i called the svc mgr he said he could only identify one problem at a time, as this is how the vw is made. is this true and will i have to continuously return to the dealership until they have replaced every part? i purchased the extended warranty, but my cost keeps adding up.
Hi Cynthia, this is definitely not true, and it sounds like the dealer is trying to milk every bit of labor time he can out of your repairs. I would take it to another dealership in your area. And let’s hope they treat you right the first time. :)
How much was the VW cat and was it covered under warranty? I have 2003 VW Jetta that had a univ cat converter put on in Jan 2008 and EML light just came on and getting p0420 code.
thanks dan…please tell me the meaning of codes 5051, 5052 or 5052B.
Hey Cynthia, These codes are retrieved when someone scans your car’s computer with a generic OBDII scanner, and don’t actually give out any information about the codes. Places such as autoparts shops, who scan your computer for free, will usually end up with these codes and should refer you to a Volkswagen dealer or mechanic who has the specific equipment to pull the real codes.
So in short, they don’t actually tell you what the problem is. Again, I would go to a more reputable dealer who essentially knows what they’re doing and gets you taken care of properly. It sucks when we run into places like these who don’t really care about the customer or whether they do the job right or not.
I have a 2002 gti 1.8t and the cel is on (not blinking, just on). It runs perfectly fine, not a problem at all. The fluids are fine and the gas tap is tightly on. What is the problem??? It’s driving me crazy!
Hey Keira, a cel could be any number of things. You’ve checked all the basics, so that’s good and it eliminates those. You’ll need to have the codes scanned, either at a local auto parts shop or the dealer to find out what the problem is.
boo haha, thanks dax!
Yeah, I know, it sucks dealing with this stuff. Let’s just say your GTI is building character. lol
Jetta 2002 automatic transmission. Rolls backward when in drive and on any hill. Does it every morning and at stop lights. Have to brake with one foot and give gas with the other and hope no one is too close behind me. Did not do it when I took it to the dealership. Don’t know why it does it. Any suggestions?
Very odd kia. Let’s see if anyone else can give you some insight into the problem. That shouldn’t be happening on an automatic unless you’re on a very steep incline.
I have a 2001 Jetta 4d sedan with 102,000 and the check engine light just came on. Is there a mileage reason that it appeared, or is it something else? The car appears to be running normal. Any thoughts?
Hi Jeff, there’s no mileage limit before the check engine will come on, such as to warn about an upcoming service interval or the like, so I would get it in and have it checked out.
Hey there I recently bought a 2003 GTI Turbo with a chip and now the cel has come on and stayed on I have taken it to get it scaned and it’s comming up no faults found but says it’s running lean, any ideas???? Thanks a bunch!
Hi Jennifer, was the chip installed recently? If so, it will take the computer a bit of time to reconfigure to the new configuration and that could cause it to run lean. Not sure of any other reasons for it, but you’ll want to continue to investigate what’s going on with it.
Hello, I have an 01 Jetta 2.0 and I have two problems with it. The first is that my key fob doesn’t work for locking the car but it works for unlocking the trunk and doors. I am pretty sure that the problem lies within the driver’s side door. I replaced the CCM but it didn’t fix the problem. The next problem I have is with my temp gauge. It works only sometimes and it moves around randomly on occasion. It never goes beyond normal limits but the whole situation is strange. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey Daniel, not sure about your keyfob problem. That’s a strange one. Could be a bad button on the keyfob itself for the locking mechanism?
The dancing temp gauge is most likely signifying a bad temp sensor, so I’d get that checked out as soon as you can. If anyone else has any ideas, please let Daniel know!
My wife’s ‘03 Jetta with 56K miles and no warranty left had it’s check engine light go on a few months ago. We took it to the dealer when it was still under warranty but they charged us $95.00 to check it out. They claimed it was a thermostat that needed to be replaced at a cost of $315.00 (No lie! Bob “Rip-Me-Off” Boast Dodge/VW in Bradenton, FL) Was not running hot, took it to my regular mechanic who replaced the temperature sensor twice! Engine light still on! Any ideas??? Please? My wife is really upset! Thanks!
Have 4-dr 4cyl 2001 Jetta, check engine light on. Take it to vw mechanic, installed new cataylatic converter. Check engine light came on again after 25 miles, O2 issue…i forgot the details. Mechanic fixed….. a day or 2 later light on again. Mechanic took it back, thinks it a sensor issue, cause it is another cataylatic converter code, and the converter is 2 weeks new…….recommended I take it to dealer, as it may be associated with past recall….any other ideas? took car to Emissions, with check engine light on and it failed. getting tired. Car scheduled for dealership appt on Saturday.
So, how about an EPC light? electronic pedal control? it used to come on randomly, I’d restart it, it’d be fine. But now I can’t get past 11 RPM w/o it coming on. What gives??
I have a 03 VW New Beetle Turbo S, the CEL came on right after I put gas- While at a stop light, I noticed the CEL blinking, then stay on- Upon acceleration, the car feels as if it’s going to lose power-when shifting gears it feels like I’m driving on a bumpy road. I had no choice but to drive it to work. I have no clue of what’s going on with it… Any information would be appreciated… Thank you.
Hi Claudia, since this started happening right after you fueled up, you may have gotten a batch of bad gas, which is causing your engine to misfire or generally not run very well. In any case, try not to drive it much if at all especially since the check engine light is flashing, until you can get it in to a mechanic or dealer to find out what’s going on.
Hi,
I have a 2003 vw GTI 1.8l Turbo. I was driving it home today and it started missing and the check engine light started flashing. I checked all the spark plugs and they all looked great. Do you have any ideas how to ceck the coils on the plugs. It seems like it has a dead cylinder.
Hi everyone,
I have a 2003 Jetta GL 2.0. The CEL came on a couple of days ago..The car has over 49K.. am the second owner. The dealer told me that the engine is covered till 60K..but in the manual it says it’s covered for 50K or 4 years whichever comes first I think, but it might different in some states. Do you know what the rules are in Idaho? Also, do you think an Auto zone diagnosis would be as accurate as the dealership’s diagnosis?
Jeremy, sounds like you have a bad coilpack, which was an extremely common problem with the MkIVs. That repair should be covered, so get that checked out asap!
Hey Sabir, the warranty on a 2003 Jetta is:
Basic: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
Drivetrain: 5 yr. / 60,000 mi.
Roadside: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
Rust: 12 yr. / Unlimited mi.
More details at Edmunds.com
Also, the Autozone scan won’t be as detailed as the dealer scan, so I’d advise taking it in and getting everything patched up before the warranty runs out!
I had a quick question. I bought my car used its a 2002 VW Jetta GLS with 95,000 miles. After driving it for a while i notice that when in stop and go traffic or an area with alot of stop lights, when i accelarate my car would seem like it has problems shifting, there would be a big clunk and i would be jerked forward. I took it to the dealership and they told me that no codes were stored about having issues at the shifting points and there is nothing they can do. I had them take it for a test drive and they couldnt get the car to act up. It doesnt happen offten but i just feel that it shouldnt happen at all. and i dont know why an error code wouldnt register. Do you think you could fill me in on the issue im having?
Hey Cody, my wife’s 2005 Jetta has the same problem. It happens very intermittently, and mechanics couldn’t find anything wrong with the transmission or any codes. It’s obviously some kind of problem with the transmission, which worries me. But we’ll be turning her car in sometime in winter I think, so hopefully nothing will happen in the meantime.
I have a 1998 Jetta GLX with the VR6 Engine. Engine Light (CEL) comes on but after a while goes back out. My question is how long will the error code remain in the computer or does the error code automatically reset when the CEL goes out?
Hey Ken, the CEL may go out, but the code will remain in the system until it’s cleared.
I just bought a Jetta GLI 2006 a month ago. Just recently, when I turned on my engine the EPC and check engine light came on. It doesn’t seem like anything is wrong with it that I’ve noticed. It still has the 50K warranty– do you have any ideas about what it could be? 39K on the vehicle when I bought… so still about 39K ;)
Hey Shehan, I recommend getting that into the dealer to have it checked out, especially being so new and still under warranty.
Hi, I have a 2003 Jetta GTI with 62k miles. It just failed Arizona emissions test and the reason is “coolant system performance”. The coolant looks good and I have always done regular maintenance on the car. Any advice?
Hey Greg, it might be related to a faulty coolant temp sensor, which there is a recall out on in case you haven’t had that repair done yet. I’m not sure myself whether that could cause emissions failure on that reason, but I guess it’s a possibility. :]
I have a 2001 New Beetle. Recently I was driving to another city and had the AC on. The engine seems to be running roughly when I’d start from first (after stopping for gas). Yesterday I was driving around town and it was doing well until that rough engine action returned, along with a flashing check engine light. The engine seemed really hot so I left it parked overnight. Drove it home this morning but the light was still flashing and the engine was shuddering the whole time. Am I looking at an expensive repair job? Thanks.
Hi Susan, sounds like you may have gotten a bad batch of gas, since this only started right after fueling up. Other things to check would be bad coil packs in the engine or related parts (these control the ignition system). If it’s the coil packs, the repair should be covered under warranty. Your temperature gauge wasn’t going above normal, was it?
Everything else was fine. But I filled my tank after that trip so it’s a new batch of gas and I’ve already gone through about half the tank. Thanks for your speedy reply.
Hi Dan! While getting my front drive shafts replaced, I asked my mech to check the CEL light that was on. He got the following codes p0421, p0431, p0491 & p0492.
What do these codes mean, is it yet another costly repair & is it something that has to be fixed ?
Also, what do you think of these “tornado’s” that you install & they are supposed to help with gas mileage?
Thanks for your help!
and also… I just got my recall notice for the underbody something or another…. would these codes be related to the recall? ( that would be awesome if the recall fixed the issue too)
Hey Katie, these codes usually have something to do with the emissions sensors, i.e. o2 sensor etc. Here’s a thread on VWVortex.com talking about it. It shouldn’t be an expensive repair.
As far as that “tornado” thing, sounds like snake oil to me. That would be a waste of your hard earned money. :)
EDIT: hmm, what exactly is your recall stated for? It could be related if it has something to do with emissions.
Auto Recall Date: 04/07/2008
Vehicle Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:DELIVERY
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 412000
2002 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT Defect Summary:
VOLKSWAGEN IS RECALLING 412,000 MY 1999-2005 PASSAT (5TH GENERATION) VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS AND PRODUCED AFTER JUNE 14, 1999. THESE VEHICLES MAY HAVE AN UNDERBODY HEAT SHIELD THAT CAN BECOME DAMAGED. IN ADDITION, AFFECTED VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS MAY HAVE A FUEL LINE (1.8T ENGINES ONLY) OR FUEL TANK VENTILATION VALVE (4MOTION/ALL WHEEL DRIVE ONLY) THAT CAN LEAK DUE TO FRACTURE.
Defect Consequence:
A HEAT SHIELD THAT MAY CONTACT THE EXHAUST SYSTEM CAN RESULT IN A VEHICLE FIRE. IN ADDITION, A FUEL LEAK FROM A FUEL LINE OR FUEL TANK VENTILATION VALVE, IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE, CAN LEAD TO A VEHICLE FIRE.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL ADDITIONAL UNDERBODY HEAT SHIELDS ON VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS TO COVER THE POSSIBLY DAMAGED AREAS AND FLASH ALL 1.8T ENGINES WITH A PRECAUTIONARY SOFTWARE UPDATE. DEALERS WILL ALSO INSPECT AND ADJUST THE FUEL LINE ROUTING ON 1.8T VEHICLES AND THE FUEL TANK VENTILATION VALVE ON 4MOTION/ALL WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES, AND REPLACE COMPONENTS IF NECESSARY FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JUNE 13, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT VOLKSWAGEN AT 1-800-822-8987.
Notes: VOLKSWAGEN OF AMERICA, INC, R5
Ah, the fuel system recall. They will be doing work on the exhaust system installing new heat shielding, so you could try to have them to the work for those codes as well.
Hi, I have a 1997 Jetta and the check engine light has been on for 8 years. No one has been able to tell me anything except that the car looks and runs great. I can’t register the darn thing in the state i moved to with this light on though. And I took it to Autozone and they can’t figure out where to plug in the scanner to scan my engine. I NEED to figure this out as cheaply as possible because I am broke. Where do you plug that bad boy in?
Hey Gena, it’s usually somewhere under the dash. A CEL could mean just about anything, even though the car seems to run fine. If the autozone guys can’t get the job done, then a Volkswagen dealer can do it for you. It should be free unless they find a repair needs to be done. But that could vary from dealer to dealer.
Could the O2 sensors issue be related to the heat shield recall? In other words can I somehow convince them the O2 went out because of the heat shield?
I’m not sure Katie. It’s always worth asking at least. :)
Hi there I have a 2003 VW GTI Turbo and I have just changed all the coils because the old ones were causing it to misfire so I ran a scan. It said #4 cylinder misfiring so i changed the coils and now they have brand new top of the line coils and she still isn’t happy she is still misfiring one day it will be #3 and then next number 4 and now it’s random misfire. Any ideas this is driving me nuts! I love my litte car and i’m trying to take good care of her but she is cranky!! :) Thanks again.
Hey Jennifer, typically that problem is caused by bad coilpacks. But in my wife’s Jetta’s case, it turned out not only to be bad packs, but also some of the related wiring and other parts that needed replacement as well. So it could be something along those lines for you.
Hey there, just bought an 03 jetta gli vr6 a week ago with pretty high miles (just shy of 100k). passed 100k yesterday and noticed the CEL @109K even though it drives fine. Pulled codes P3081 and P0420 from Autozone today at lunch. got back to work and noticed I didn’t hear anything when I locked the doors, but figured I was out of range. tried to go home just now and the car is dead. battery is fine, but no electrical signs whatsoever. all electrics came back when I put the key in the ignition so I tried to start it a couple of times with no luck and it eventually went dark again. it was my first venture into vw after knowing just hondas and it’s quite a disappointment so far. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Hey James, sorry for your troubles. Those are just a couple “character” quirks of VWs. *joke* Those codes are related to ignition and emissions, so I’m not exactly sure how that relates to your electrical problems. Could be that the battery is done for with that mileage, if the previous owner hadn’t replaced it.
Hi Dan, the battery is a week old. since the car was sitting for awhile the seller replaced it for me. could a failing ecm cut off power to the whole system like I’m seeing? i’m going to try reconnecting the battery just in case it’s not on securely. is there a component that connects to the battery and distributes the power to the entire system?
Could be possible that the battery is loose, although that would be odd. Be sure to check all connections. There is a circuit box (or something like that) on top of the battery that needs to be properly connected as well.
thanks Dan. connection on the battery terminals were secure which I checked before, but found the connection to the ckt box on top was not which I missed. really didn’t look forward to replacing anything after draining my savings to buy the car. i’ll categorize this under user error.
Hi There, I have a 2003 1.6 New Beetle that has a lumpy idle and hesitation across the RPM band but especially between 2,000 – 3,000 RPM. I also have this error in VAG COM: 17526 – Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 – 35-00 – -
I understand that this is the rear O2 sensor, would replacing this cure the lumpy idle etc?
Very often I also experience fast idle for the first 2-3 minutes of running (up to 2,500RPM)
I have already stripped and cleaned the throttle body and reset the throttle flap.
I have also stripped and cleaned the wires in the MAF using MAF cleaner spray.
Many thanks in advance for your expertise!
Hey Simon, it sounds like you’ve done just about all you can from my perspective to get rid of the bad idle and hesitation. :) The bad sensor could be a result of running rich or maybe bad compression in a cylinder which could cause the idling and hesitation problems maybe?
Hey Dan,
Short version: What does running thin mean?
Long version: I have a 2002 VW Passat with 26,000 miles on it. The engine light went on and I took it to the neighborhood mechanic who checked some of the obvious stuff, like vacuum hoses, and told me not to worry about it. Light came back on and I was already scheduled to take it to the dealership due to the millionth recall on the car. The dealer told me the light could be due to a variety of reasons, including a loose gas cap, and he’d charge me $100 to diagnose it. I took a pass (I can tighten a gas cap for free and I have had bad experiences with the dealership) and when I picked up the car for the recall repair, the light was off.
Later, I filled the tank with gas and when I got back in the car, the light came back on.
Neighborhood mechanic says his diagnostic device indicates the car is running “thin.” He said it’s not dangerous and should be OK driving a couple hundred miles for a trip.
Also, my friend bought the same car (though hers is a manual transmission) at the same time and she says her light has been for over a year and has had no performance problems.
I’ve done a bunch of googling and a lot of VW drivers have paid a lot of money to “fix” various diagnoses and later the light would come on anyway. I’d like to avoid unnecessary spending, but err on the side of safety.
Thoughts? Thanks for any help!
L
Hey Lisa, running thin or lean means that your air/fuel mixture is off, where there is more air than fuel going into the cylinder. Basically your engine isn’t getting enough gas for proper combustion. I wouldn’t suggest letting it remain in that condition for an extended period of time.
When the check engine light comes on, very specific computer codes are entered into the system that should be scanned by any reputable mechanic to discover what problem is throwing the code. If your mechanic has checked the codes, it should point him in the right direction for a fix. It could really be anything in the car, so the codes definitely need to be checked out so you can have the proper repair scheduled! :)
Hi Dan,
I noticed in some of your responses that the black top coolant temp sensor is a recall and the dealer should replace it. Do you know where I might be able to find the specifics for the recall? I still have the p3081 code and my local dealer tells me it’s not a recall and it will cost around $280. At the very least, I’ll just buy the parts and do it myself, but if it is a recall I’d rather have them do it.
Thanks.
James
Hey James, here’s a thread on VWVortex.com that actually has scans of the recall/warranty extension letter from Volkswagen. I don’t know if/when that expired, so maybe it’ll help you to get the dealer to perform the repair. IF you have another dealer to go to in your area, you might want to try that if this dealer won’t do it.
Just FYI – On the 94-99 Jetta/golf – the diagnosit connector is actually in the center of the car – there is a removeable blanking plate – I think it is to the left of your power lock/central lock button – pull off the cover, and there will be a plug under there. Hope that helps!
Hey Sean, thanks for the extra info on the MkIII. :]
09/18/2008: Hi Sean. I purchased a 2002 VW Beetle, 1.8 Turbo, now has 67K. In the past 6 months I have replaced the following, given in specific order: Timing Belt; Water Pump; Mass Airflow Sensor; Battery; Gas Tank Door Switch; Throttle Body Module. After thousands of $s, and numerous trips to my mechanic… I thought the car was “good-to-go” for another 60K. Was I totally wrong!!! Yesterday morning while driving to work… the “check engine” light is on AGAIN!!! I just found your site this morning and had no idea that a place like AutoZone would run the codes on vehicles for free. I was paying 100 bucks for a diagnostics test EVERY SINGLE TIME my car was in for repair. Thanks for the info. My question to you is: After having those 6 major components replaced. What could possible be the cause of the re-occurring “check engine light” THIS time?
Hey Bernadette, I would make sure to have them check the “coilpacks” in your engine. These are notorious for going bad, and will cause cylinder misfire amongst other things. Hope that helps get it tracked down!
Hi, I have a 2002 golf gl and the check engine light came on a bout a month and a half ago after I filled it with gas (and did not tighten the cap). I figured that is what it was from & it comes on randomly ever since then…
Today I turned the car on and it sputtered and that light started flashing, so I turned it off right away….
I must have been wrong about it being the gas cap before… :( Anyone know what that is?
Hey Lisa, when this happened with my wife’s Jetta, it turned out to be bad “coilpacks”, which are part of the ignition process and the spark plugs. You can have the computer codes scanned for free at a local auto parts shop to find out what might be going on, if you don’t want to take it to the dealer first.
this morning my bf drove my car (2003 passat 1.8t) to work (poor thing, he just had his aprilia towed to the shop and had to drive my car), when the CEL came on – the car dropped WAY down in rpms, shook, sputtered .. you name it. he was really close to work so when he got their his shop mates checked it out and said it appears that the passenger side firewall had come loose and was sitting on the headers which was causing the firewall to melt and smoke. we are taking it in to the shop tonight. i will keep you posted. im just wondering if this has anything to do with the heat shield recalls. hmmm.
maybe its the coilpacks!
Hey Marina, those symptoms sound like the coilpacks, but if the firewall is loose, that’ll definitely need to be fixed as well. :]
it was the #4 coil. the dealership is charging me for parts ($45) and labor ($155). i hear its easy to replace but i have zero time so guess that’s that. when i first got my car this happened but the dealership in texas replaced with no questions asked. this dealership in WA is charging stating the recall has expired. i call VWOA and they confirmed that the recall is a done deal. ugh.
(sorry is this posts twice) I just bought a 2003 GTI VR6 runs great. I stalled it yesterday and shortly after that my check engine light came on i took it to my mechanic and he read the code and said that it said it ran too lean, but that was only recored once. He erased the code and then my car took 3 tries to start up again. Now today everything seemed fine and randomly driving home my check engine light came on again. The car drives great but the only thing i have noticed is that when i first start driving it in the morning it makes a whining sound in first gear. What could this be?
Hey Krystal, sounds like you might have the warm stall issue that these engines have. A TSB (technical service bulletin) was issued for the repair, and will be covered under warranty if you still have warranty left. If not, I think they should only charge an hour of labor for the job as it’s just a computer flash.
Would the type of fuel i am putting in have anything to do with that?
Hey Krystal, yes, be absolutely sure that you only use premium gas in the VR6. The computer can compensate for lower octane gases, but all it’s really doing is preventing knock and predetonation in the cylinders.
I have a 2000 New Beetle with a 1.8 Turbo and 5 speed manual trans with 73,000 miles. The check engine light has been on for a while and more recently the airbag light came on and stays on. Have not noticed any performance issues. Had it serviced, had the CEL reset by a mechanic and then it passed CA emissions, but shortly after emissions test, CEL came back on. Still no performance issues so have been driving it for a couple of months with no problems. Then this morning, I noticed the brake light on and the ABS light. I checked the parking brake, but was disengaged. Then, after a few miles, the brake warning lights went off. However, on the way home from work later that day, all of the sudden a variety of lights started flickering, brakes, ABS, CEL and some others all flickering, engine sputtering and at the same time the radio quit playing. Could not get radio to come back on. Finally the engine died and it would not restart like it had a dead battery, but hazards and other lights still worked fine and were bright. After a few minutes of sitting alongside the road thinking I needed a tow truck, it restarted. I drove it a few blocks to the house and it started sputtering so bad, it would not even move or accelerate. I get the whole thing about having it checked for a code due to CEL, but the radio thing just kind of confuses me. Ever heard of that before?
Hi.
I have a 03, wolfsberg edition jetta. I just recently got it back from the dealer in ref to 2 motor fans, temp sensor, and a water pump ($1995.00 by the way :() it has been running perfectly! now yesterday i was leaving work and the check engine light came on.. and its kinda shaking. once i drive the check engine starts blinking then i stop and it stops blinking. Its not running hot at all and i feel like i’ve had so much fixed what else could be wrong. ? any ideas and possibly costs? could it be something they already repaired or should i just take it elsewhere because its a new problem? pls tell me im not looking at an arm and a leg again lol. BTW I find your website very helpful. :)
Hi Stacey, there is a recall out for a problem with the “coilpacks”, which is part of the engine’s ignition system. if one or more of those goes bad, it can cause those problems. Granted, other things can as well, but that might be your first step in finding out what’s wrong.
What is a good price to have a coolant temp sensor replaced in a 1999 golf. My shop quoted $65.
Hey mark, that sounds like a pretty good price. I can’t imagine getting it cheaper anywhere, as places usually charge more than that just for labor. :) Good luck!
Thanks Mark you were exactly right.. it was just a coilpack # 4… Not expensive at all . thanks
I have a 2003 GTI 1.8T. I am the second owner. I absolutely LOVE my car and when this one has seen its day I will be the first owner of a brand new one. Anyway, I had my CEL come on this weekend and I took it to a shop today to find out what was wrong. Nothing was out of the ordinary, no lack of power, not a thing I could see. Well, I took it to a local shop and they plugged into the computer. The results they got said “temperature too low.” They said it could be a thermostat or a timing belt, however, I had the water pump and thermostat replaced because I ran into the oh-so-common 2003 problem at 58,000 (I now have 83,000). At the same time I had the timing belt changed because they had to take it off anyway to get to the water pump. That was around June last year (I know, I drive A LOT). Anyway, the point is what could cause the car temp to be too low? Is it a bad thing – certainly not as bad as too hot I hope. If indeed it is a thermostat should I replace it ASAP or what? Thanks for any advice – I love this site by the way!
Oh, sorry, I forgot to add – it is a manual transmission AND the light came on during one of the cooler days we had here in Florida…if that makes any difference…
Hey Alisha, there was a recall out for the coolant temp sensor. Now I don’t know if a bad one would cause your symptoms, but I imagine it’s possible. I’d get that checked out and hopefully you’ll have a free repair!
hi, i have a 1999 new beetle, with a trouble code: p1426, fuel tank ventilation valve open, where is located this valve? i was looking for in the haynes repair manual,and i did not found it, what can i do to repair?
Hey Erik, I’m not sure where that is either. I suggest posting your question in the appropriate forum at VWVortex.com. Someone there should be able to point you in the right direction.
Hi I have a 2002 Volkswagen 1.8 Turbo Passat and everything was fine as far running goes. But then about a month ago I was pulling out of a parking lot on to a 4 lane highway with a turning lane in the middle, I pull out into the turning lane and stop everything was fine up until this point, when I went to accelerate to merge over into the other lane, thats when my car started to shake and the MIL light started to flash and there was also a knocking noise, it almost seemed as thought the care was stalling out. I pulled off into a parking lot and shut the engine off. Called someone to come look at it, when they arrived we took it to the dealership I bought it from. They said they would take a look at it and call me when they know something. Well their first attempt to fix it was two coil packs were faulty and not firing they changed them and later install two more. After they did this they stated the car would not start, and that it had no spark, and from there they replaced the cam position sensor, it started but still had the knocking, Up untill this point it all had been covered under my warranty, Now the tech. says that excess fuel that traveled into the exhaust system collected in the catalytic convertor, left over from the coils, the fuel collected in the catalytic convertor. The catalytic convertor is not covered and surprise it will cost you $751.54. I don’t think so, so I picked my car up and am trying to find out what is wrong with it. Here is what I know while driving it when getting up to a certain speed the shaking stops and the car runs smooth, the gas mileage is way down, and longer you drive the more it knocks, when I take off there is little power and it takes awhile to get up to speed. Any ideas? Suggestions? I know I made a mistake in taking it to the dealer who isn’t even a VW dealer.
Another issue I have in this car is with the radio, when it’s on and you turn the volume all the way down the radio freezes up and the volume won’t come back up. I have to turn it off wait a few seconds turn it on wait till it comes all the way on and they adjust the volume, any ideas about this?? Is there anyway to reset or do I just need to have it replaced?
Hey D, sorry for the delayed reply. Your problem did sound like bad coilpacks, but I’m not sure if it could have fouled your catalytic converter. It does makes sense, but the price they quoted to replace it is outrageous, so good thing you didn’t have them do that. I’d get a second opinion elsewhere. I’m not sure about the radio problem. Haven’t heard of anything like that. Let’s see if someone else chimes in on that one.
Hi there! I have a 2005 Passat 1.8L 4 Cylinder with 55k miles. Last night, my wife was driving home and the CEL came on then began to flash at her. Also, the car shook badly almost like it was missing gears or something but it wasnt quite that same feeling…We immediately parked the car and havent driven it since after reading that the flashing CEL could mean serious damage. SO, after doing a bunch of research, it looks like others have has this problem and many ppl have said the dealer quickly wrote off the problem as a coil pack issue, which wound up not being the problem. I live an hour away from the VW dealership and cant afford to make multiple trips. SO i am wondering if the diagnostic tools at the dealership always give off the right codes, AND is my issue one you have seen or heard of frequently?
Hey zbuck, bad coilpacks is the most common problem when those symptoms occur, but it doesn’t have to be. Although it’s best to hope that is all the problem is, as that’s a simple repair! :D The dealer’s diagnostics won’t lie, but you may or may not be able to rely on the mechanic who worked on your car.
Now, since you’ve already been to the dealer and they said it wasn’t the issue, then didn’t they propose what might be wrong or investigate further?
Check engine light has been on for months on 2001 Jetta gls wagon. Recently car sometime starts rough and seems to run on 2-3 cylinders. But turn it off, and it starts up and runs perfect right after. Happens about once every two weeks. Ideas?
I have a 2003 jetta with 32K miles – it’s been a pain since 2005!! i read all these problems with engine light going on . I wonder why is VW not issuing a recall ?? I’ve been to dealers, local mechanic and they do the usual scan/reset the light. I finally found a solution – I SOLD this money pit and been very happy with the Chevy Cobalt!!
Hey Jeff, again, most common problem when these symptoms occur is bad coilpacks. And to answer Rusty at the same time, there is a recall out for this repair, and should be taken care of with no problems.
Hi! I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. One day I was driving and had the check engine light come on, just solid, not flashing. Anyway, I took it to the dealership who charged me buko-bucks to have the codes read and turns out it was the coolant temp. sensor and the thermostat sensor. Well, I chose not to have them fixed that day because I am ending my lease on it early. Two weeks later, the light came on again, and I had my friend just read the sensors and get the light off of there so I didn’t end up paying for the senors to be read again at the dealership. That was a week ago and I turn my car in tomorrow…is there any way to tell how long before it goes on again?! Thanks!
Hey Jamie, the coolant temp sensor should be repaired under a recall, and the thermostat sensor should still be warrantied, no? It would have been best to just get the jobs done, but unfortunately there isn’t a way that I know of of knowing when the CEL will be thrown again. I don’t think that leasing companies scan the codes upon turn-in inspection, but if that light is showing, that won’t be a good thing! :)
I have no idea if it is under warranty actually. How would I find the info to get that fixed? If it is still under warranty, wouldn’t they be able to fix it free of charge then? I honestly have had the worst luck with this car. Tons of problems! TONS! 2 CV Boots, a door handle, 2x repaired whistling window amongst other things. I recently purchased a 09 Lexus IS250, so hopefully that will solve the problems. HA! I appreciate your quick response. Hopefully the light doesn’t come on. If it does, I think a quick stop to get it scanned at a automotive place might just be the trick. I know, I should have gotten it fixed…but I admit that I was a bit bitter about the car at that point. Thanks again – BLOG is extremely helpful.
Whether it’s still under warranty or not will depend on its mileage, but being an ‘03, I assume it’s probably out of warranty anyway. If it was still under, they would repair for free.
As every car manufacturer has problems of one sort or another, you had some with that Passat. But it sucks that there were so many! :) I would fully expect none, or very minimal problems, with a Lexus as its not in the same category as Volkswagen. Lexus should be compared to Audi. :)
No problems, that’s what we’re trying to provide. Just share the knowledge!
Hey Dan.
I have a 2001 Vr6 GTi. The car has been running relatively well for the three years which I have owned it. About two weeks about I received the dreaded CEL. I believe it came with the change of seasons (if that makes any sense). The car sputters under 2200 RPM, popping sounds originate from the engine at times, and is not making the power which I have become accustomed to.
I took the car to a shop that seemed reliable, and specialize in VWs. The scanned their computers and told me that they found that a cylinder was misfiring, and that they narrowed the problem down to a bad fuel injector. My friend who has several years experience as a mechanic, tells me for a car which has less than 50 k miles, a bad fuel injector seems unlikely. I did searches of CEL problems on the internet and very few VW people have had problems with fuel injectors. The shop is asking for 800 dollars which i would rather not fork over so readily.
It is odd. I don’t hear often of bad fuel injectors. Make sure they check the coilpacks and related parts. That’s FAR more likely to go bad than the injector. And that price, ppffftttt, forget that! That’s absolutely ridiculous. You may want to try elsewhere.
please email me what are the things that can cause touareg r5 not to give information to scan and not to showing check engine light
Hi
I have a 2003 Jetta wolfsberg edition.. Lately I have been driving it and getting a clicking noise when I turn the wheel.. no resistance some automechanic I dont fully trust yet told me that its my axel. on the passenger side its broken. He said it will run me approx $200-$250. Does this diagnostic and price sound pretty reasonable to you? thanks in advance
-stacie t
Hey Stacie, it sounds correct, but be sure to have someone check the “CV boots/joints” on both sides of the car. This sound is usually a symptom of those going bad. The mechanic “may” have to just axel cause he didn’t want to go into detail with you, but be sure to doublecheck! The price doesn’t sound horrendous, but getting a second opinion might score you a cheaper price.
Hey thanks alot for the advice. I have one more question, Is the CV boots/joints something that needs to be repaired right away? or should I be able to hold off after the holidays? :)
No probs. :) If that’s the problem, I don’t recommend letting it go very long at all. Best to have that problem repaired, and in the meantime trying to drive as little as possible.
My daughter has a 2001 VW beetle turbo. We just recently had sludge removed and flushed from her car. Cost about 1800.00 from dealer ship. The other day she was stopped at the stop light and her car went completely dead. Lost all power as if it had turned it’s self completely off. She tried to restart it but it would not. Then about 1 hour later I went to pick it up because it had to be pushed into a parking lot. It started up fine. No code lights are on. No check engine lights are on. Seems to be running fine as usual. What would cause this car to do this? Took it to 2 different shops in town neither could get anything to come up on their computers.
Ouch, sludge baaad. :( Sorry for that man. That’s a very strange one. Couldbe an electrical problem, whether alternator, somewhere in the ignition or coilpacks, etc. But I’m not sure. No codes have been thrown with that, huh?
No codes yet. I drove it several times today and seems to be fine. My husband was thinking maybe in the ignition also. I guess we will see if it happens again or if it thows a code. So far the check engine light hasn’t even come on. We are going to check the alternator just for the heck of it. Thanks for your help.
Hi, I’ve had the 60k maintanence done on my car, only about 30k later when i finally took possesion. I’ve got a ‘03 Jetta w/ 1.8T engine. I had to have mine towed to the dealership for a faulty coil packs. But while there had them replace timing belt and water pump too. With all that plus, new spark plugs (i bought the wrong type and they had started to back out with in 15 minutes of driving it after changing them, I’m not joking.) Plus a reflash of the ECM, and labor included it was around $1300. Granted after they drove the car, I found out my clutch was bad. I didn’t know because this is the first 5spd i’ve driven other than my brother ‘94 jetta and i know his is even worse than mine before I got it fixed. they replaced the clutch and flywheel. I had the car for 6 months at that point, so i know it wasn’t me. Anyway, with all that it was $3100. Real step, but I feel confident that the car isn’t falling apart anytime soon. But I do have a question. I recently took my car in again to have them check out code P2181. they diagnosed it as the thermostat, 2 hours of labor and $400+ out of my pocket, i had my car back. ( this is a different dealership, i don’t trust this one. ) Any way, this seems way way to high. in any case, i went to change my oil this weekend and notice that my dipstick tube is broken. My question is this: are the tube and thermostat near each other? I didn’t have time to call that dealership back yet about it. But i’m planning on it. twasn’t broken before I took it in.
Hey Matt, yeah, lots of repair but at least you know those things are taken care of. As far as the thermostat, there is a recall out for that if the thermostat has a black colored top. The new one is green colored. So that repair should be done free of charge to you, and even if it wasn’t, that’s an insanely high price so I wouldn’t go back there.
Here are some details about that recall. I hope you can at least get this one done for free!
hey, i have a 03 vw gti 1.8t. it has 95,000 miles on it and has had all the things done to it like it was soposed to for the turbo. The problem im having is when im driving with the raido on but all the way down the lights on the dash and head lights start flashing and a whining sound comes from the speaker??? i have put a new altinator and battery in it and after reading a bunch of things it seems I should check the coil packs? once i turn the car off and restart it, it is fine??? also one day this was going on and it sounded like an arching sound from behind the raido? it still has the stock radio but im wondering if the person that had it before me had a aftermarket head unit in and put the old one back in to resell and did not connect the wires right?? i have no idea on this one!! HELP PLEASE!!!
Hmm, you might be correct on the radio not being wired back up properly there, Bobby. Have that checked out, especially since you’ve replaced the batter and alternator. Only other options are the radio, or wiring somewhere in the system is bad.
I own a 97 Jetta GLX. A couple days ago, just after gassing up my check engine light started blinking (about 5 blinks) and then went solid, I pulled over and checked under my hood and saw that a cable/spark plug connecting to my engine was arcing. I handed my car over to my mechanic, he’s pretty good but the only VW mechanic in town. He replaced the cables and I drove off and the check engine light turned on again, 5 blinks and then solid. I’ve noticed when I was driving that every so often I feel a couple little putters and then my car goes back to normal. Since my car engine light has turned off once and turned back on, any advice would be great.
Hey Arlo, it was good that the cables were replaced, but that original problem could have nuked something else along the ignition line, so your best bet is to get it further checked out (have someone scan the computer codes to find out the exact problem) before driving too much if possible.
Hey- It has recently gotten VERY cold here and my CEL came on yesterday morning when the actual temp was -10. Could I possibly assume that this will remedy itself when the temp warms up a bit… or ought I go ahead and get this fixed now?
Thanks!
Hey Beth, I’m not sure what could be causing that CEL. But you can get the codes scanned for free at a local auto parts shop, or have the codes scanned for free pending no real repairs are needed at a dealership. Good luck!
Ok. so i live in the mexico-USA borderline, I live in Mexico(juarez) and drive to USA(El PASO) just about every other day. My point is the bridges have long waiting lines to cross over….about 30 minutes to an hour. This past summer at an outside temp of around 100 F, when I turn on my a/c on my 06′ 2.5 Jetta, it starts to heat up after 30 minutes of it being on. If I turn the a/c off, the heating stops and the car temp goes back to normal. If I cross the bridge and the temp on the car is high when I start to drive on I-10 the temp comes down as well. So it heats up only when its staled for a few amount of minutes. I’m at 53,000 miles, and when the car was at around 42,000 miles it would never had that problem….I’m afraid of the upcoming summer. What could my problem be? I wanna be ready for when I arrive to the dealership….oh yeah the check engine lights turns on when the a/c is on, and comes off after a few minutes of it being off.
Hey Fabian, You may have a problem with the fan in the engine bay. You can get that code scanned for free at a local auto parts store to find out what the actual problem is, or do it at a dealer as well and the scan will typically be free pending any repairs.
Hi! I have a 2004 New Beetle. Right after I hit 50K miles, my CEL went on. I took it to the dealer and they said it was throwing the code P2181, the Coolent System. I took it to a VW mechanic since the warrenty was up and replaced everthing the dealership recommended (replaced the Coolent Sensor & Thermostat) . The mechanic cleared the code and the CEL came back on 3 days later. The mechanic cleared the code again…and the CEL came back on. We did this several times. So we decided to replace the water pump and timing belt. The pump was starting to go, so figured that was the cause. Wrong. The CEL has now been on for months. Please help, because I can’t afford a new car and I won’t be able to pass the Smog check.
My co-worker has a 2004 Jetta and is having the exact same issues as stated above.
Hey Megan, good that you have an independent mechanic to do the work. I hope it’s a bit cheaper than the dealership. :) This is a strange one. Sounds like you’ve replaced just about every necessary item in the cooling system. Have you or the mechanic noticed any leaks in the system, or has he/she checked the head gaskets etc. for any leaks?
Also, has the mechanic checked to see if the same code is being thrown, or a new one? There could be a new problem related to the replaced parts. I hope you get it sorted!
The dealer was 1/2 the price of what the dealership wanted!
It’s always the same code thrown, same with my co-worker. Both of our mechanics are at a loss. When I asked the dealership if there was something else needed, they said no.
I saw one posting inquring about having VW reprogram the computer and not just clearing the code. Is that a possibilty?
Ok, hmm this is an odd one. Let me talk to one of my more techy friends and see what his thoughts are on it. :) Talk to ya very soon!
Ok Megan, here is the response from my friend, Nik, who writes for VB as well occasionally and is very well versed in Volkswagen tech:
==========
I guarantee you it has something to do with the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. I know the poster says it was replaced, but they need to make sure it’s the latest revision piece (green top, latest code). Since they’re cheap, I’d go as far as replacing it again. ECT is a fairly common, but fortunately cheap, fix on MKIV’s. My honest recommendation would be to take it somewhere else, sounds like this person is being taken for a ride by their “vw” mechanic. It’s either the ECT or thermostat, guaranteed. A good dealer will get to the bottom of this. Replacing water pump and timing belt on an engine with 50k miles is absurd, again I don’t trust this shop the person is going to.
==========
I honestly hope that your mechanic is being honest with you throughout these repairs. Have a look into the coolant temp sensor once again and please let us know how it goes!
My 2003 vw beetle check engine light has been on for a few months. Then all of the dash lights start blinking and car dies. Was told alternator was bad. Had it replaced with new one and had problem again. This will be the second alternator replacement. Could it possibly be in the wiring?
Hey MyLinda, if the alternator was indeed bad, it could have caused something else along the lines to have problems as well, but don’t quote me on that. Be sure to have your mechanic check the battery and cables along with any other electrical components to try to track it down. And even before all that, they should scan the computer to see if it has registered any codes and information related to the problem. That might reveal it right there. Good luck!
I have a 2003 GLX Jetta 1.8t. My mil light came on. I took it and had it scanned. The code was for the coolant system. What could it possibly be? I checked coolant level, it is ok???
Hey Sherlock, you may need to have your coolant temp sensor replaced, which is under recall. If it does need to be replaced, it will need to be changed from the “black top” sensor to “green top”.
Hi. I have an 03 Jetta with about 62,000 miles and about 15 miles into my morning commute to work this morning a yellow light went on and stayed on in the control panel. It looks like an engine, and after looking it up at a stoplight int he manual, it appears to have something to do with the exhaust system. I stopped the car in a parking lot and turned it and back on–light is still on. I called my VW dealer who is about 90 miles from me and they thought it would be okay to drive until I can get it in, but my job requires me to drive a lot–in the next few days I have to drive probably 200 miles. I’d hate to have something go wrong on the highway or something. What do you think this could be? I haven’t checked the gas cap, but it’s been several days since I got gas, and it is very cold and snowy here…
Hey Lissab, the “check engine light”, or CEL (also sometimes called MIL), could indicate any number of problems with your Jetta, from very minor to major. If it came on and stayed on, you probably are ok driving it, but I recommend absolutely as little as possible. If the light is flashing constantly, you shouold turn off the engine immediately.
Your next steps is to have the computer scanned for any codes that are causing the CEL, which should tell the mechanics what the problem is. Good luck!
Hi My girlfriend has a 2000 Jetta 2.0. I recently took the car for service to get the CEL looked over that was poping up every other day. It was a Throttle Body Code and a Coolant temperature sensor. Now after the codes were cleared the CEL does not come on anymore but was wondering when I should replace the temperature sensor?? I also had another question, The engine when get close to Oil Changes starts to knock and become very loud is this normal?
Hey Casey, the coolant temp sensor should be replaced for free as it’s under recall, so a win there. :) The knocking should not be happening, and I’m not completely sure, but if there’s a problem with the throttle body sensor, it could be causing that.
Nice I love recalls..how do I do that just call the dealer provide my vin and set an appoitment? As for the Engine noise it just sounds loud, yes they said the throttle body might need to be replaced our cleaned out they werent sure till they took it off and took a look. What should I do its 500$ just to replace the thing.
Yeah, you will just need to schedule a service appt and tell them you’d like to have the coolant temp sensor recall done. $500 sounds steep for a replacement, so you may want to shop around for that. Good luck!
hey dan, i have a 2003 gti 1.8t, and they engine light just turned on. and the codes it shot off were p0301 and p0201. it drives fine and idles good too, but peddle to the metal it start misfiring at 3000 rpm and only from 3000 to 5000 rpm it will like miss fire do you have any clue on how to fix this?
Hey Chris, yep, after researching those codes a bit, they are related to the misfiring. Now the most common problem to cause that is bad coilpacks or other parts in the ignition sequence. So I recommend you get it in as soon as possible and try not to drive too much if you can. Good luck!
Hello,
I drive a 2003 Jetta 1.8T with 80,000 miles on it. I have owned the car for a little bit over a year now. My MIL light came on about a month ago. I took the car to a mechanic, they told me nothing was wrong and they turned the light off. A couple of days later the light came on again. I have made sure that the gas cap is on tight. And don’t know what else to do. Any advice? Thanks!
Hello,
I have a 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition w/ 85,000 miles on it. When do you recommend I get the timing belt done?
Thanks in advance,
-STacie
Sorry for taking so long to reply. too much going on! :D
Patrick: Something definitely has to be wrong if the light comes on. If your mechanic didn’t scan the computer for codes, which will tell what the problem is, I’d try another mechanic. Getting the codes scanned is the first step to finding out what’s up since the light could designate almost anything.
Stacie: Now is the time to have that repair done. I don’t recommend waiting much longer. Good luck!
Hello, I have a 2001 New Beetle Sport model with 102K miles. I left my house today & the engine didn’t respond when I stepped on the gas, it felt like the engine was throttling back. I drove the car about 2 miles, & the malfunction indicator lamp started flashing & kept flashing until the car was stopped. The car had no power. Any ideas? Thanks in advance !
Hey Robert, some common problems with the 1.8T engine (if that’s what you have in there – I think the Sports came with it) are bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, and coilpack problems. I believe both of these could present problems as you described. Your first step should be to get the computer scanned for the codes that threw the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). That should point your mechanics in the right direction for repair.
Do you still have warranty left on your Beetle? Being an ‘01, prolly not, but hopefully! :D
Hey, I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t GLS, and I have been having some engine problems. The only mods I have done to the car are a GHL motosport exhaust system and a CAI from GHL. Recently my car sometimes stalls out while sitting at a stop light. Also it sometimes (while slowing down or just sitting at a stop light) goes into some kind of ‘limp mode’, where I can press the pedal all the way to the floor and there is limited acceleration. I took my car to a dealership and they replaced the MAF sensor, but two days later the same problems returned. I was just curious if the problem could be with my CAI? Also, the code they received, before replacing the MAF sensor, is P0102. Could you or anyone shed some light on what may be going wrong with my Jetta?
hey Robert, the bad MAF sensor is a very common problem, and that code is for exactly that. has the check engine light come back on again since the symptoms came back? The other very common problem with 1.8T’s is bad coilpacks.
To test whether the CAI is indeed causing the problem, can you try replacing the original airbox for a while and see if the problem goes away. I hope that might help, and keep us updated! :)
My husband and I have a 2005 Volkswagon Passat Wagon TDI that we purchased new from our local VW dealership. We have driven it approximately 50k miles. The VW service at the local dealership in town is notoriously bad, at least in our experience. Recently, we had the tires replaced by Goodyear and the tire guys told my husband that the car had no CV boots at all. (I hope I am getting this terminology right.) Anyway, my question (and I obviously know nothing about car maintenance) is whether it is odd to have the CV boots “disappear” like this? The dealership service dep’t quoted us a price of $500 (parts + labor) for the boots. Whaaaaaa happened?!
Hey Jennifer, sounds like that tire dealer is shady as well, or at least they didn’t want to use more proper terminology in explaining to you and your husband what’s actually wrong. :)
The boots wouldn’t completely go away, but what he could meant is that they’re so worn out that they’re basically gone. Now, it will be a bit of labor to do that repair, and unfortunately I might be looking into this on my GTI soon as well. So that price isn’t too outrageous, but if possible, try getting quotes from different dealers. Good luck!
Hi, I just got a 07 Jetta, yesterday, with a manual transmission, and while I was test driving it I stalled (a little rusty with a standard I guess…) and the check engine light came on. They reset it there and said that it sometimes happens with standards which haven’t been driven for a while. However, today I was driving it, and the engine light came on without me having stalled at all.
Is this still routine? What should I do?
Hey Tiana, congrats on your new Jetta. :) Sometimes the light will come on briefly upon a stall with a manual transmission, but it shouldn’t come back. You should still be under warranty, so you can have the dealer check everything out to make sure there isn’t some premature failure in an engine component or something. And all on the dealer’s dime. It shouldn’t cost you anything. :) Good luck!
I have a ‘02 VW Passat with 147,800 miles that just failed the MD emissions test due to P0421/P0431 and P0491/P0492 Chk Engine computer codes. Can you tell me what the codes mean and if the P0421/P0431 codes are about the catalyst converter does that mean I need to repleace the “cc” or does it mean that the sensors have gone bad?
Hey Ron, those codes are related to the catalytic converter, as you said, and most likely at your mileage it’s just bad sensors. I’d suggest checking that out first and see if the codes come back after repair.
I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. I had the check engine come on last night just as I got home and didn’t think anything of it. Then this morning I go to drive to work. Start it up and check engine light is on again and it is running really rough. Left it home and read this blog today. Drove it to Autozone to get the code after work. Still running really rough and smells like “rotten eggs” when I get out of the car. The code that the guy at Autozone pulled out was P0305. He said it was mis-firing on cylinder 5 and most likely needed a spark plug or coil. Does this sound right and if so any idea as to what that kind of repair will run?
If it makes a difference, my 03 Jetta GLI has 37k miles on it.
Hey RTM, that sounds about right. I can almost guarantee that it’s a bad coil pack causing the misfire. This is a very common problem on the 1.8T engines (though even my VR6 had it). Once you get that patched up, everything should be good to go. I wouldn’t recommend driving it unless absolutely necessary until you get it repaired. Good luck!
I drive a 2003 Jetta GL 2.0. Only 2 years after owning it the engine light came on. Then it would self-correct a dozen times on and off until finally about the third year it stayed on- and has been on ever since. The whole while the car has run fine. The first time it happened the VW mechanic told me it was “the bad gasoline going around” the next time I asked (and they cleared the codes) I got “try tightening your gas cap”. Since then i’ve tried everything from running cross country on high test gasoline to replacing the gas cap. Still stays on. My question is this, if I have them finally fix the problem since it was under warranty when I first reported it (and they knew about it) would it be covered under warranty (that has now expired)? Second question is do you have any idea what this could be? I mean there is literally NOTHING wrong with this car except a pesky light on the dashboard- other than that it runs smooth, accelerates fast and starts up just fine.
Hey Vee Dubya, it doesn’t sound like you have some very reputable mechanics, as at the very least they would scan the computer for the codes that threw the light, and make repairs accordingly. Or at least let you know what it was. It could really be any number of things, so without knowing the codes, I couldn’t really say what it is.
As for getting something done under warranty that’s expired, when it should have been repaired while under warranty… good luck man. I agree with you, they should have done it when under warranty and you should be entitled to it, but I imagine a less than 1% chance they’ll agree to do it. :)
But good luck, and let us know how it goes.
I have a 2003 Jetta with 107k miles on it, and I had the CEL come on. I took it to the VW dealership, and they said it was the catalytic converter. They quoted me 950.00 dollars to fix it. This seems outrageous to me. Is it?
Eric, that does sounds very high. I would try to get a second opinion, or at least have that dealer break down the costs completely for you. Good luck!
I have a 2002 TDI wolkswagen jetta, and so afar i never really had any serious problems up until about a month ago. my jetta just shut down on me while driving home one night, i pulled over shut the ignition off than turned it back on and drove home safely. the next day i decided to dive my car to the only repair shop on the island i live on (molokai, hawaii), when i reached the repair shopi turned my ignition off, tried turning it back on but it would start suddenly than just shut off automaticlly. No one where i live have any clue to how to fix the problem. The ignition key sign blinks constintly when trying to start the car but till this day have no such luck inv using my jetta, it was towed to my house where it sits. Any advice in how do i go about trying to fix my car? or any clue to what is wrong with it?
Hi Dan
I have a 04 Passat, 1.8L turbo manual. I just had my 40K check up, drove about 18 miles and the MIL came on flashing while car was idling. Car has zero power, and even in neutral is running very rough. The only repairs they did at the 40K were flushing the brake fluid, replacing one CV boot, and replacing the lower engine cover. I am still under the power train warranty and also purchased an extended warranty when I purchased car at 35K. (That warranty covered the CV boot repair). Any ideas? I get from reading all the posts I should not attempt to drive it due to the flashing MIL, but is this a coil pack issue? I purchased the car from a VW dealer as a certified VW, so wouldn’t they have completed any recalls while they certified it? To my knowledge vehicle was a lease return. Appreciate any advice you have!
Hey Spazz, yep, sounds like a coilpack problem. At least, that’s the first thing to check out. And did the dealer not do the scheduled 40k service while they did those repairs you mentioned? That should be done as well.
Thanks for the super fast response! They did complete the 40K, along with the repairs I listed. Is the vehicle safe to drive 8-10 miles to dealer or should I have it towed?
I’d lean on the safer side of towing it, I know extra expense, sucks, but oh well. :)
Hi
I got a 2002 VW POLO which I had serviced a couple of months ago at a cost of £550…only missed one service and done 53k miles , a few weeks later the EPC light came on whilst starting but kept on going off. Last week it came on during me driving (no beeping or blinking) and has stayed on. But it has been ok to start and drive/ Recently it is shaking once starting and the EPC light blinks but after a few revs it fixes itself and the engine returns to normal and is ok to drive. But i am wondering whether or not to take it in….i am worried that its gonna cost a fortune..any advice?? :)
Hey Sinoeh, what the problem is might depend upon what was done to your car in that service you had done a couple months ago. It sounds like there could be a problem somewhere in the ignition system, like a misfire in one of the cylinders.
Your first step should be to have the computer codes scanned. These will tell the mechanic what exactly is going on and what repair should be made accordingly.
Hey Dan,
I have a 1999.5 Jetta AEG engine, I have a CEL. The codes were P1128, P0300, P0301 and P0302. Erased the codes and the car had no power. Give it some gas and it would stumble, then after a few miles the CEL would come back. Only this time with the Misfire codes. I have changed the MAF, Front O2, plugs and wires (all after codes was detected). The car has 104k. Drove it around today about 25 miles before the CEL came back on. Still has a hesitation. It doesn’t have a miss, just very sluggish. It act like a lean condition (P1128). How do you check the fuel pressure, do I need to take a line loose and put a tee to a gauge? What should the vacuum be?
Dan-
I have a 2004 GTI VR6 and my check engine line was flashing then turned solid. I read that it may be a catalytic converter problem.
Also, the engine is idling very strong/weirdly
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Hey Steve, sorry for the delayed reply to ya man. Those questions are beyond my diminutive mechanics capabilities. :D I suggest you pose your question to the members of VWVortex.com.
JC, could be that one or more of your coilpacks have gone bad. That’s at least the first place to check, and is a VERY common problem.
Good luck to both of you!
Hello,
I have a 2003 VW Jetta and have had nothing but problems with it since I got in in August 2007. Latest problem is the check engine light came on a few weeks ago. The car had been sitting all weekend and Monday morning when I went to drive it in the cold damp weather, the check engine light came on. The car would shake everytime I stopped and when I pressed on the gas it would feel like there was no gas getting to it. I brought it to my mechanic who said I need a tune up, and turned the light off for me. The car stopped shaking and everything seemed to go back to normal, until a few weeks later when the car sat for the weekend, and when I went to drive it Monday morning (again damp and rainy) the same problem happened and the check engine light came on. This time it wasn’t as bad and didn’t last as long. The check engine light went off on it’s on and the car went back to normal by the time I got to work. A few days later, the check engine light has come back on, but no shaking or gas problems. I’m afraid to get a tune up and spend all this money on it and it not be the problem. Does this sound like anything you’ve heard of?
Thanks!!
I just bought a 1997 VW Jetta, when I went to get it smog checked it passed everything, but the check engine light will not come on.
I took it to a Midas, and they were not able to find the reason why the light will not come on.
Any ideas? :)
Thanks!
Hi,
I have an 04 Jetta, manual, 2.0L. My EPC light is always on no matter what, and the light with the exclamation mark in the middle of a circle comes on sometimes too. However, when I start up my car, if I don’t use my foot brake at all until after I start driving, the exclamation mark like will not come on. But, if I’m on an incline and have to use my foot brake, the exclamation mark light comes on right away. Is this an easy fix? about replacing the brake switch or something?
Thanks!
Dan,
Got a 2002 Passat GLS 1.8T and it sat all winter long with intermitent starts. Battery died, replaced it 2 days ago – started fine no CEL. Today, started it and got a flashing CEL, a very rough idle and drove it around the block and has very little power. Also exhaust smells a little odd. Do I need to put a fork in this dub or is there hope :)
thanks!
Help! I am in VW Hell, 2 VW’s 99 New Beetle, Alternator and Cam Pos Sensor went out in one week, and a 98 Jetta that I just can’t figure out it will run fine for a while then die and not start for atleast a couple of hours the CEL is either not coming on or burnt out I dunno checked the components I knew to check and replaced what needed to be, cap, rotor, ICM however the issue is still persistant
I just bought a used 2007 Passat 2.0t at a local Nissian Dealer. 30min after leaving the dealer ship the service now message and the MIL light came on. The dealership just changed the oil and filled it up with gas before I picked up the car so I figured that was why the service now light was on. Anyway I figured out how to turn the service message light off however the MIL light is still on. I tightened the gas cap and the light went off for half the day but later it came back on…what do you think the problem could be?
Hey guys, sorry for the extremely late reply.
Alex, have both your MAF sensor and the coilpacks/ignition checked out to see if that might be causing your problem. Your mechanic should know what you’re talking about if you ask about these items.
Tiffany, I suggest taking it to another shop to have the codes scanned in the computer, or a dealer. Auto parts shops will scan your codes for free, or the dealer will do it for free pending there isn’t a problem. In any case, those codes should tell the shop what the problem is and how to repair.
Christina, there might be a problem with the ABS system. But in any case, something’s going on in the brake system, whether it’s the bad brake light switch (which has a recall) or related. Good luck! :)
Mike, when a car sits for a long time, if you hadn’t put some kind of fuel stabilizer into the fuel tank, your gas will degrade. That would be the first thing to check out. Try to burn off that old gas and get a fresh tank in there and see if the problem clears up.
Chris, sounds like you have a bad combination of problems, and most likely out of my league. :D I suggest you head over to VWVortex.com and post up some details of your problems in the engine-specific forums.
Hey Ashley, interesting one there. Since the dealership just did some service before giving you the car, they should be responsible to find out why the light came on. They might have done something incorrectly. Second, be sure to check that gas cap is tightly closed. If it’s loose after filling up, it can throw a MIL as well.
MY JETTA CLUNKS BAD!!!
Hi!!
I have an automatic 2007 City Jetta which I bought new from the dealer in April 2007. It has gone in several times for small repairs ie: Glovebox door breaking twice, cd player replaced, cigarette lighter replaced twice, when you close the back passenger window to the top it automatically opens again once it hits the top of the window column… these have been some of the small problems but within the last 2 months there has been a “MAJOR” clunk when my car accelerates from 1st gear to 2nd gear. The car is automatic so i know it’s not a case of “bad standard” driving. It usually occurs when accelerating from a stop sign from being on a hill, going down or up a small hill. I’ve taken my Jetta to the dealer 3 times, to 2 separate dealers to get a broader review, and the computer results for my transmission have all come back totally fine. They show me the printed results and offer no other help because they have no idea what it is. The clunk happens maybe 2 or 3 times a day, some clunks bigger than others. Some often hurt me because I jerks so far in my seat (it feels almost like someone hits my car from behind)
Has anyone experienced this terrible “CLUNK” in their Jetta??
Please HELP!!
Thanks!
i have a 98 new beetle who’s check engine light just came on; i ran it thru one of those home indicator systems and it said that engine running lean….what can i do?
I am a service manager for a vw dealer.If the codes in the vehicle read a cooling system malfunction again,a thermostat should correct the problem.this is very commen..good luck
I just drove home today in a 2003 Jetta,,,,I havent had it 3 hours before the CEL came on ,,made me sick to the stomache,,, it drives good and the light is steady rather than blinking,,,,would it cause any trouble if we continued to drive it 3 or 4 days to see if the light may reset,,
I know the dealer filled up with gas before we left, although the gas cap felt pretty snug to me..
I know the car has been sitting for a while ,,is it possible that it will reset??
Hi im amanda, im 18 andi just bought my first car, its a 2002 vw jetta 2.0 4cylinders, i got this car at 108,000 miles, day after i bought it, engine lights on, book said could be a catilytic converter and not to drive if it was flashing, it wasnt so i brought it back, they reset my code and told me i didnt shut my gas cap all of the way (w/e) but im nieve to this and said ok thanks, next day came nack on, autozone scanned it and it came back as catilytic converter so anyway they replaces my converter, now about 7,000 miles later, the lights bck on… the car smells of exuast, sometimes like pure gas, also like rotten eggs at times, auto zone had 2 codes they found, soemthing about an oxygen sensor and/ or heater coil?!?!?! could this have anything to do with the new converter? if not whats ths mean and is it pricy?? since i bought it though while im driving the floor just feels rough i can’t explain it other then that the car just feels rumbly in my feel like im driving on a dirt road when im not, but being its my first car im not sure what normal and whats not, also one more thing, when i turned off my ar and sat in it for a minut i heard loud cranking rumbling noises from underneath the car, the car was completly shut off when i heard this?> shouldnt a car rest silently? thanks so much for your tiem, i dont know anyone who knows anything about crs so i really would like to take good care of myine, car has always been maintaned well, although i kknow i need a cabin ffilter
Hi im eric and i own a jetta 99.5 2.0l stick. has cool air intake and after market exauhst. my CEL came on about 6 months ago and it gives me a code of p1128. its been driving fine until recently. it startd to backfire taking off from 2nd (not from a stopped position). it also like boggs down just b 4 backfire too.. but its been doing that even b 4 the backfiring.. do u think it cud just need the sparks replaced? also i notice that since about a year ago the temp gauge works when it wants to. id really hate to take to dealer bcuz the i simply cant afford their prices. and frankly my last experiance with them put me off dealerships for good. I appreciate any advice you can give me. thanking you in advance for your time!!
Hey JT, my wife’s Jetta, which is an 05, does the same thing. And they haven’t found anything either. I’m not happy at all about that, cause you don’t want the transmission going south. I hope we can get the problem tracked down. If you do, please let me know. And I’ll post up as well.
Hey Laura, that could indicate a problem somewhere along the ignition system. It’s not a terrible problem, but I don’t recommend running your Beetle too much before getting a repair done.
Hey Astros, the CEL could indicate any number of problems, small or big. Since you’re not noticing any symptoms in the engine or otherwise since the light came on, you may be ok. Since it had been sitting for while, old gasoline may have caused a misfire or bad ignition, which would throw the CEL. Definitely get the codes scanned to find out.
Amanda, it’s definitely a bad oxygen sensor on your catalytic converter, which will create the symptoms you’ve had. Those sensors usually only last about 80,000 mi. or so, so it is overdue for replacement. It shouldn’t be an expensive repair. I recommend shopping around at dealers or local mechanics to get the best price. Good luck!
Hey air x jetta, since you have aftermarket exhaust installed, the first things to check are the catalytic converter sensors and the ignition. Your symptoms also sound like the oxygen sensor, and the code p1128 indicates the engine is running lean, which would be related.
I have a 2001 Beetle with a little under 71,000 miles. My check engine light came on. I secured the gas cap, changed the air filter and the light satyed on. I went Autozone and it had code of P0411. The car is sluggish going from 2nd to 3rd.
It suggest that it may be a faulty solenoid vavle or air pump. Any suggestions, or comments? This is my first VW and I love it. I’ve never had any major problems.
For 4 weeks, my Jetta has been sitting because its engine light came on without explanation and the local VW dealer required it be TOWED in to get checked out. Last night, on a whim, I started to explore the potential problems causing the light to illuminate, and came across this website first. I was anxious about the many, potentially expensive problems I might be facing, but also intrigued to learn that it might occur over something as simple as the gas cap. This triggered the recollection that I’d bought gas the day before the light came on.
Still, I was shocked to find NO GAS CAP when I checked behind the little locked gas door this a.m. I drove two blocks to the auto repair store, purchased a new gas cap, and had them clear the light with their little computer apparatus. I thank YOU for a great resource for mid-life ladies who have no clue about cars or car computers, but roam around cyber-space looking for answers to life’s surprises. Blessings.
I did get the car scanned and had to replace the catalitic convertor,,,my question is , this car has only 59,000 miles which is very low mileage for the convetor to go bad,,
does that make the chances high that something else may be brewing to go wrong..or could it be it was just a fluke and now I may have many happy miles ahead………
i have a 2004 gti. for the last month the car has had some problems. first the airbag light went on, then when i turn off the signal light the noise keeps on going but no light flashing odd. finally the engine light went on and i have scanned it and had problems with the coolant temp sensor had it replaced a year ago but its still occuring. now i have problems with my care making noises like im ridding a bicycle with a a baseball card on the back wheel. every time i accelerate it makes this noise. do you think that my catalitic convertor is going bad.
Hey Tamara, according to this article, there is a Volkswagen Technical Service Bulletin out for the repair. The code P0411 is “Secondary Air Injection System-Incorrect Flow Detected”, which is a vacuum line. I suggest you head over to a good dealer and have them make the repair. Good luck!
Betsy, glad you saved yourself a good bit of money on repairs you wouldn’t need!
Astros, 59,000 miles is low for a cat to go bad, but many factors could play into that, such as bad gas, ignition etc.
Hey Art, sorry to hear so many problems you’re having. As far as the noise, that could be something stuck under your car or the wheel area, or possibly a problem with another part of the driveline, whether cv joints or the like. Not sure if it relates to your cat.
I have 2001 Jetta VR6. I stopped for gas on the way to work on Monday morning, I was almost empty and when I took the gas cap off, I head a hissing noise, almost like vapor escaping. I filled up, went to work came home. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, and I got the emissions workshop message. It has been hot and humid where I live, could this be vapor lock?
i have a 2005 jetta 101,000 miles the CEL just came on went to autozone and they told me P2279 P0171 P0507 am I looking at an expensive fix….
Hey Jeff, it could just be that the gas cap wasn’t tightened quite enough, or the cap itself has gone bad. The hissing sound you heard is completely normal when very low on gas. fumes will build up inside of the gas tank, which are released when you open it.
Becky, those codes are as follows with a link to further description:
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System (couldn’t find more detail)
P0171: Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
P0507: Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
Now what does all this mumbo jumbo mean? One of the more common problems that occur on these cars is a bad “MAF” sensor, which is noted to be a possible cause in code P0171. In any case, I don’t think this should be a really expensive repair, but it is something you’ll want to get done as soon as you can. Good luck!
Hey, I have a 1999.5 Jetta. I just replaced the spark plugs with Bosch Platinum plugs, air filter, and oil. In the process the dipstick tube snapped off. After starting up the car and driving it, the car struggles and the check engine light flashes after acceleration. We checked out our work and can find nothing wrong except for a broken dipstick tube. But something that small would not cause a CEL to stay on and then flash at times would it? Thanks.
Hey Jay,
it’s common for the orange dipstick handle to dry out, crack and break off a lot of times. Do you mean this part, or the actual tube that the dipstick inserts into? If this is open, it could cause a problem while the engine is running.
Did you also double check the gap on your plugs before installing? It’s typically recommended to install NGK plugs (a little pricey, unfortunately) which are the OEM plugs. many owners have reported trouble with other plug brands, which doesn’t make sense, I know. :P
And as far as the CEl, yeah, either of these could throw that, especially if there’s a problem with the ignition.