Check Engine Light Double Whammy

July 15, 2006 – 8:00 am by Dan Volkens
Filed under Car Care, Volkswagen GTI, Volkswagen Jetta

Wow, two MILs in one week. I drive a 2003 GTI, and my wife drives a 2005 Jetta. Both threw check engine lights this week.

Thanks to our good ol’ in-house techy, Tekmassa, we were able to scan the codes. Turns out my GTI has the known-to-be-defective black topped coolant temp sensor. So I’ll need to have that replaced with the green topped one.

My wife’s Jetta, a 2005 2.0l, has a funky coilpack. Seems the circuit opened on cylinder one’s coil pack, in turn causing a misfire in cylinder one, which threw another code and made the engine pretty cranky.

Thank goodness however that both repairs are covered under warranty. I just have to work out getting the service appointments scheduled and taken care of in a timely manner.

I plan to take both to Northgate VW, and will update everyone after the repairs on how their service was and all good things like that.

Dan Volkens

Check Engine Light Double Whammy
July 15, 2006 – 8:00 am by Dan Volkens

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486 Responses to “Check Engine Light Double Whammy”

  1. I’ve got a 2001 New Beetle and the check engine light just came on–no other warning lights, just the solid orange check engine light. The car feels fine to drive but I’ve read other horror stories of cars bursting into flames right after the light came on. Any clue what this could be?

    By Julie on Apr 25, 2007 | Reply
  2. Dan Volkens

    Hi Julie, since the CEL (Check Engine Light) can go off for a myriad of reasons, your best option is to get it checked sooner rather than later. It can be as simple as a sensor malfunction to major engine problems. But since you stated the car seems fine, it’s hopefully something small! :)

    You have a couple options to go about getting it checked out. You can go to most of your local automotive parts shops like Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys etc. and they should scan the codes in your car’s computer for free (those codes reveal what triggered the CEL).

    Or you also have the option, which I would recommend, to go to your local Volkswagen dealer and have their service dept do the scanning. It will cost something to have it done at the dealer (it always does ;0 ) but it’s better peace of mind, and whatever caused the CEL can be fixed right there in their shop if you’d like. I hope that helps!

  3. I have a 2002 VW GTI. My check engine light came on in June and that led to the replacement of my coolant temp sensor. It has come on again since then and I always try to tighten the gas cap because I hear that can cause the light to come on. It has always gone back off after a couple days of tightening the gas cap. Then it came on over a week ago and it seems to be sticking around this time. I will go have a diagnostics test run but I just wanted to know if you had any other thoughts on this strange GTI behavior.

    By Jen on Oct 11, 2007 | Reply
  4. Dan Volkens

    Hi Jen, unfortunately the check engine light, or CEL, can be a myriad of different problems. Your only good course of action is to get the codes scanned to discover what the problem is, and make sure that whoever scans them clears out the codes. A recurrent light might only mean that the original problem that through the code is still in the system.

  5. I have an ’01 Beetle. My question; Is the CEL (or any other code lights) set to come on when it’s time for the engine to be serviced; like getting the oil changed or the plugs replaced, etc? Thanks!

    By Rick on Nov 4, 2007 | Reply
  6. Dan Volkens

    Hi rick, no the CEL will only be thrown when there is a problem in the engine or somewhere along the exhaust line I.E. bad sensor or related.

  7. I have a few issues going on right now with my 2002 Gti VR6. First, its seems that my suspension is a bit whacky b/c when I let off the gas I feel the wheels pull to the right and when i give it gas it will correct and pull to the left. I went to a shop, who named a long list of problems…didnt really trust the dudes…and they fixed my control arm and align. I am still having the same problem and at high speeds its a little scary. They did mention i needed a new steering rack. Would that be the problem and if so what is an average install price. I am feeling like i am getting ripped because I paid $600 just for the control arm and align. Thanks

    By Dagan on Nov 20, 2007 | Reply
  8. Dan Volkens

    Hey Dagan, the symptoms do sound like steering rack or something, but don’t quote me on that. :D Ouch! $600 for that is very steep. Definitely go somewhere else. I don’t think you would have paid that much at the dealer, but I could be wrong. Try another place and see if you can get a reasonable rate for the repair!

  9. Hi,

    I just bought a 2007 Jetta a week ago, and this past weekend i took it on a road trip (about 260ish miles one way). On my way there, my check engine light came on, but car drove fine so i continued. The next day it was still on, but after i put gas in it, it went off. It stayed off while i was there, but when i started driving back, the check engine light came on again – stayed on through the drive home, but turned off when i got home, after several trips throughout my home town. What on earth could be the problem? Like stated, i just got this car a week ago, and it has 11k miles on it – definitely covered by warranty. The car drives fine and light is off – should i go to the dealership to get it checked out? If i do, will they charge me since i JUST got the car? Please let me know. Thank you!

    By Margarita on Dec 3, 2007 | Reply
  10. Dan Volkens

    Hi Margarita, it sounds like you may just have a loose gas cap, which when not tightened enough will throw a CEL (check engine light). Mrad highlighted that problem previously. Make sure that you hear at least three clicks when tightening your gas cap down.

    But for peace of mind, you can also go to any one of your local auto parts shops and have the computer codes scanned for free to check for problems that would have thrown the light. If it does end up being something other than the gas cap, I would take it in to your favorite dealer and have them take a look. Everything should be covered under warranty.

    Let us know how it goes! :)

  11. I have a 2003 Jetta Sedan. With 77,000 miles. A few months ago the CEL came on and I extract a P2181 code. From the diagnostic, I replaced the ECT sensor and the Thermostat. A few days ago it came back on again. I am beginning to think this is either a water pump problem or an electrical one.
    Any history with this code before I spend lots of money at a dealeship?

    By Kristine on Dec 8, 2007 | Reply
  12. Dan Volkens

    Hi Kristine, with the water pumps on our generation Volkswagens being absolutely notorious for failing (they have a plastic impeller rather than metal, go figure), I would have that checked out to be on the safe side.

    It could also be related to other parts of the cooling system, such as the radiator fans, etc.

  13. just purchased a certified used 2004 jetta wagon 1.8t in feb 2007. haven’t had this car for a year yet and the battery light goes off. had the battery checked it was low but okay. drove the car to scott volkswagon in east providence ri (horrible customer service) and left it. car got checked and the alternator was shot, so it got replaced. went to pick up car and started the car up and the check engine light came on. mechanic came out to check it and told me it was the cooling sensor…he replaced it. while the hood was opened i asked him about all the wires, what looked like to me attached to the battery, he opened the cap to show me what got replaced and the big black wire was smoking (which goes to alternator)!!! he told me oh that shouldn’t be doing that….well duh!! so my car is still waiting to get fixed and has been in their shop for four days. apparently they don’t stock parts…wtf??? car is under an extended warranty but my husband wants me to get a toyota…i think i just might! volkswagon from sales to service at scott stinks!! i think they all think they are working for bentley or rolls royce :(

    By nacyh on Dec 19, 2007 | Reply
  14. Dan Volkens

    Hey Nacyh, if possible at this point, I would go to a different dealer. This one sounds completely unqualified to do work on your car, and that check engine light was likely a result of the shoddy work they did replacing your alternator. Try to ask around and see if someone knows a good dealer in your area.

    Also, you’re going to have problems with any make and model of car, Toyota included. Maybe not as many, but it’s just a fact of life with automobiles. :D At least its warrantied!

  15. unfortunately dax…i traded “karen” my 2004 jetta wagon 1.8t in for a 2002 lexus rx300. i love volkswagen but there are only a few small dealers in my area. so for my situation (my husband travels alot for work) i need a reliable car and a reliable dealer. i only had one year left of my extended warranty with volkswagen. the lexus is a 5yr bumper to bumper warranty which includes a rental car if the car is in for service longer than an hour. when will volkswagen get wise to the fact that they need to be more customer friendly especially with service hours and warranties. when volkswagen changes in those areas i just might be back but for now it’s good bye farfegnugen :(

    By nacyh on Dec 21, 2007 | Reply
  16. Dan Volkens

    Yeah, well you definitely traded up on that one. Good trade! :) I don’t think you could ever go wrong with a Lexus. You’re right on the money about VW needing to change a lot of things about how their business is run from the customer perspective. I thin they’re trying lately, but we need to see some concrete changes. We wish you luck, and hope that no problems crop up for you!!

  17. i got a 2003 gti 20th ann special and the check engine lights flash and it feels like the car is going to die

    By alex on Feb 15, 2008 | Reply
  18. Dan Volkens

    Hey alex, if your check engine light is flashing, you need to shut the engine off immediately and get that checked out. There’s a possibility that one of your coil packs might have gone bad, which will cause the cylinder it’s tied to misfire etc.

  19. I have a 2005 jetta with automatic transmission and I am having a few problems with it. When I am starting to accelerate for a stop the car seems like it’s having trouble shifting into second gear and the car will make this thud noise and then will shift and kinda jerk me forward and my check engine light will come on. It will shut off after a week and has happened a few times, but another problem I’m having is that my car won’t start so I turn the key again and I have to push on the gas pedal a little and then it will start. This has happened to me twice. Any info would be useful. Thanks

    By Jessica on Feb 20, 2008 | Reply
  20. Dan Volkens

    Hi jessica, your best bet is to get your Jetta into a dealer or a local mechanic and have them scan the computer for the codes that were thrown when your check engine light came one. That will tell what is going on with your car. From there, you can have the necessary repairs done at your favorite location.

  21. I went to autozone and had them scan the car and they gave me the code p0118 and said it was my engine coolant system and it also said it was higher than expected for the current engine operating systems. My car has never overheated and they did not say anything about it. Should I take it to a dealer and get it looked at or should I just replace the sensor?

    By Jessica on Feb 20, 2008 | Reply
  22. Dan Volkens

    Have you ever noticed your temp gauge running high or moving around a lot as if it can’t get a reading? Or your engine just running hot in general? However, this code doesn’t seem to relate to the problems you described having in your first comment. I would take it into the dealer to have it really checked over well.

  23. hey what up, i drive a 2003 gti 1.8t, an my smart ass decied to rallly it on a random dirt road two days ago, that part was fun, anyway as i left the dirt road for a paved one there was this puddle i decied to go thro any all of a sudden my cel came one and my car felt like it all of a sudden had like 90hp, and putters around.i looked in my book and saw that wen the light flashs it means somethins up with the catalitic converter, but idk if thats it for sure, it blink \s 15 times, not sure if thats usefull either, any way i try not to drive it but dont got a lot of cash so tryin ta figure out wat to do, anyhelp will be much appericated thanks,

    By kyle on Feb 27, 2008 | Reply
  24. Dan Volkens

    Hey Kyle, you don’t by chance have a CAI (cold air intake) installed on your GTI? It sounds like after rolling through that puddle that you may have gotten some moisture sucked into the engine through the air filter. If so, this is hugely bad and you’ll need to get it checked out right away. You could also have gotten some electronics wet which in turn would flake out the engine.

    In any case, I wouldn’t drive it until you get it looked at.

  25. I have a 2002 VW New Beetle. It works fine expect when there’s moisture in the air, like after it rains or a snowfall. When its sort of wet. As soon as I start my car, it will start sputtering and the check engine light will come on. Last year around this time of the year I took it to the dealer and they said the entire front console had to be changed. $600 and 1 year later the CEL still comes on. I can’t forward another car and since I can use public transportation when the CEL comes on I just let it go, but its annoying not having a reliable car.

    By brian on Mar 4, 2008 | Reply
  26. Dan Volkens

    Hey Brian, as I’ve mentioned to other commenters, your best course of action is to first get your computer codes scanned at your favorite local auto parts shop or dealer. That will tell them and you what exactly the problem is. Then you can approach the repair from there.

  27. Hello, I own a 2002 Vw Jetta and LOVE my car! Last year about this time my MIL came on and I brought it to my certified vdub mechanic and had the catalytic converter replaced, and the front 02 sensor. The light went off for about 1 week. I brought it back to them and they replaced the converter again(#2) . About 3 weeks after that the MIL light came back on again, and I ignored it for a few months (lack of $$ to fix), my car ran fine no cranky engine, it ran smooth. Recently I brought it back and had a rear O2 sensor replaced. The light went out for 2 days and the light came back on. My mechanic tells me to go to the dealer and have my main computer reprogrammed in order for the light to go out and stay out. (Not just clearing the code)

    My car runs fine, there is no hesitation my gas mileage has stayed the same, but that light has stayed on – Any suggestions?

    By Neil on Mar 10, 2008 | Reply
  28. Dan Volkens

    Hi Neil, sucks to have problems like that, doesn’t it? I hope that in the course of your repairs with the dealer that they scanned the computer codes that would have been thrown with your MIL to make sure they were making the right repair. If possible, I would try to find that out. It could just be that whatever is throwing the MIL wasn’t repaired, or, as your mechanic said, they need to be cleared from the car’s computer. Let us know how it goes!

  29. I bought my daughter a 2000 Passat and recently the check engine light came on and has stayed on. It just failed the emissions test. We took it to a mechanic (not a dealership, but a certified emissions specialist) and he found 4 ODB2 codes P0421, P0431, P1177 & P1131. He is recommending replacing the 4 O2 Sensors and PCM reflash. The cost is $1424. This seems very high and he says this may not even fix the problem as it could be the catalytic converter.

    Any advice?

    By Tracy on Mar 24, 2008 | Reply
  30. Dan Volkens

    $1400 sounds outrageous. I would take it to a dealer or another mechanic and see how much they would quote you.

  31. I just bought a 2002 VW Beetle, 1.8 Turbo with 73,000 miles. I have since learned of a 60K maintenance requirement for these cars. I have talked to one mechanic that does work on VW’s exclusivly and he is telling me between t $1200 and $1400 for the maintenance. Is he close on this maintenance cost? Should I just check to see what the cost of replacing the timer belt and leave the rest of it alone? Thanks.

    By Danr on Apr 5, 2008 | Reply
  32. Dan Volkens

    Hi Danr, it shouldn’t really be anywhere near that amount. If the timing chain gets replaced along with all other 60k maintenance items, you’re probably looking at a range more like 400-600 I think.

  33. Thanks for the information! I just found your site today and will keep a watch on it for additional information. It was a great help since I’m clueless on mechanic type stuff.

    By Danr on Apr 5, 2008 | Reply
  34. I have a 2003 GTI VR6 with 32k on it. I was driving to work today and the check engine light came on. I take very good care of it and I only really drive 16 miles a day mainly open highway. My fluids look fine, but my antifreeze is right on min. The car runs just fine and I always check my gas cap, the last time I got gas was 3 days ago. Just wondering if this could be the same issue as you with the temp sensor?

    Also just wondering what grade gas should I be buying for it?

  35. Well, I decided to have AutoZone run the codes to see what it was and it ended up being the gas cap. Can it take that long to make that happen? I got gas 3 days ago why would it take so long?

  36. Dan Volkens

    Hey Erik, most likely that is the case if you’re not sure it already has been taken care of. In any case, be sure to get the codes scanned so at least you know what’s going on. :]

  37. Dan Volkens

    Huh, imagine that. It could have taken a while for the system to realize that it wasn’t sealed properly… or it worked loose a bit over time since it wasn’t closed tightly…. maybe.

  38. Hey, I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T, I recently changed the air filter and the spark plugs in the car. Started it up and drove it for a good 40 miles. As I was driving something happened and the car is now missing bad in low idle and low speed. The engine light is also flashing. I changed to new spark plugs, and change the coil packs and neither of these did the job. It is still missing. It was fine until I changed the spark plugs the first time. Any Ideas?


    By Amy on Apr 23, 2008 | Reply
  39. My 2000 volkswagon beetle 1.8 turbo had it’s fuel pump, radiator fan motor and belt replaced how much should this cost if done by a reputable repair shop.

    By ed on Apr 23, 2008 | Reply
  40. Dan Volkens

    Hi Amy, did you buy pre-gapped or made sure to gap the new plugs properly? Sounds like they’re not firing correctly, or there could be a problem with the coil packs or any related part.

  41. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ed, I’m not sure how much on average those repairs would cost. Hopefully some other readers can chime in on their experiences.

  42. i have a 2003 jetta gli, and about a week ago, the check engline light appeared. i thought it was due to the gas cap; however, now that a week has gone by and the light is still on and this morning i was unable to start my car until giving it quite a bit of gas, i believe it is something other than the gas cap. after this initial start, it has started just fine the rest of today.

    i went to auto zone, and the on board diagnostic shows code p0420 as the cause of the CEL. This is due to the following possibilities: catalytic converter defect, engine misfire, large vacuum leak, or engine oil leakage into exhaust -valve guide seals and piston rings.

    Do any of these things sound like symptoms of why I was initally not able to start the car but then why I was able to start the car each time afterwards?


    By Kelley on May 11, 2008 | Reply
  43. Dan Volkens

    Hi Kelly, I’m no techy, but I’m sure that if the computer were throwing those codes, one is most likely the culprit, and then the others were probably a result of the first problem.

  44. Hey Dax, I have a 2001 1.8t Wolfsburg edition and absolutely loved the car when I first got it. I bought it brand new, so all the wear and tear has been my own. My CEL has been on and off now for the last 4 years and I have heard a myriad of explanations and possible fixes for my car from the trusty Vdub service men. I have taken it to the dealership every time for the fix and a week or so later the light comes back on. All they have told me at the dealership is that it is misfiring on all cylinder’s but it doesn’t take a genius to figure that one out from all my symptoms. The exhaust seems extremely rich, and my gas mileage has plummeted dramatically, which is not the greatest thing considering the current price of gas. The temperature gauge often gives funny readings, but always seems to run cool, according to the temp gauge. The car idles lows, between 5 and 600, and rough. Sometimes there is a huge lag in the acceleration, and is jerky when I get on, or off the gas. Recently the engine has acted as if it was going to die when coming to a stop and has actually died on me while coming to a stop. The CEL is constant and it has been awhile since I have last had it checked due to the failed attempts to fix it. With this problem I have replaced, the temp gauge, the coils, spark plugs, valves, and O2 sensors, and recently the mass airflow sensor. All of this seems to have been in vein. I have asked about the cat and they reassure me it is not the problem. Has anybody ever had similar problems and possible fixes, or is it time to get rid of the car.

    By Chris on May 12, 2008 | Reply
  45. hello, 2002 vw gti 1.8t . i’ll leave the car running for 15 minutes then it shuts off by it’s self then i have to wait till it cool off again to start again i have replaced the crank sensor but that did not work. fuel pump tests fine… replaced coils and spark plugs still acting up sometimes 15 minutes sometimes 1 hour then it shuts off again… can someone help? thanks in advance.

    By Jack on May 12, 2008 | Reply
  46. I have a 2003 VW new beetle 2.0 L, I am trying to locate the intake air temperature sensor( IAT)

    By kp on May 13, 2008 | Reply
  47. answer for Chris sounds like you have a Clogged Fuel filter. replace the filter its a cheap fix. It should work.

    By kp on May 13, 2008 | Reply
  48. I have had mt Jetta now for about three years. The check CEL came on about a year ago. I took it to the dealership and they said nothing wrong, and reset the computer. Well it came back on a day or two later and has been on ever since. I have now also taken it to Autozone where they do the free testing, 1st time, they said engine coolant system, 2nd time, they told me I needed to add antifreeze. (My air works fine, and no problems with the car the entire time its been on)
    So I go home to add antifreeze, AND I HAVE NO CAP? I looked in the manual and apparently it is a sealed radiator?? I have never heard of this? I just took it to the shop this morning and they are going to run a test to see what they can find out. I am freaking out that I am going to pay an arm and a leg for this!!

  49. Dan Volkens

    Hi Cybill, what year is your Jetta? There should be an antifreeze overflow bottle, typically on the lefthand side of the engine (facing the front of the car) where you would top off the antifreeze. Also, the antifreeze should only be purchased at the dealer since it’s a special coolant that is pink colored rather than the typical green.

    The CEL problem could be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor, which is a recall that should be replaced by the dealer. If the dealer you went to gave you a hard time or didn’t seem to fix the problem (they should have), try another one in your area.

  50. Dax

    My jetta is a 2003 GL.. I found the overflow bottle but it is full?? is the pink fluid also. So I didnt add anything.

    So if this shop where I took it to says it is the sensor, i should take it to the dealership? And unfortunately there is only one VW dealership here in Tucson, and they are not very helpful!

  51. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cybill,

    Ah, sucks that there’s only that one dealership, but they should replace the sensor under the recall free of charge! :)

  52. Dax,

    So you know where I would find the recall at. The shop is saying there is not one on there list?

  53. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cybil,

    Here’s a link to a thread on with scans of the actual recall letter from Volkswagen. I hope that helps get the work done!

  54. Hi,

    I have a manual 1997 Jetta GT with 163,000 miles. My CEL came on yesterday afternoon when the temperature was in the 90s. When I turned my car on this morning, the light wasn’t on so I kept driving. The temperature got up to 104 today and as soon as it was hot outside and I turned my car on, the CEL went on again! It’s stayed on for the last few hours and now the seat belt light has turned on even though I have my seat belt on. My car is running perfectly and isn’t making any noises, but I’m really worried that something may be wrong and I have final exams next week, so I need my car. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? Do you think I could wait until next weekend to get it looked at if I don’t drive it a whole lot?

    Thanks for your help!

    By Caitlin on May 15, 2008 | Reply
  55. Dan Volkens

    Hey Caitlin, be very careful with your Jetta and try to drive it as little as possible until you have it looked at. You can take it into one of your local auto parts shop where they should scan your computer codes for free, or take it directly to the dealer. :]

  56. Do you have any idea what could be wrong?

    By Caitlin on May 15, 2008 | Reply
  57. Dan Volkens

    Without it exhibiting any obvious symptoms, it would be almost impossible to tell without scanning the codes. Have you checked all of your fluids such as coolant, oil, power steering and brake? You will only be able to move ahead on the repair once you find out what codes the computer has thrown. I wish I could help you further! :) Unfortunately, a trip to the dealer or a good local Volkswagen mechanic if you have one is in order.

  58. i got a 2002 vw beetle…engine lights been on like a year with no noticeable prodlems. now its like someone slams on the brakes hard when im comeing to a stop. auto zone said po420 and po354.. i saw someone that had these issues on this web site and wondered what it may be…im not taking it to a dealer …thanks

    By justin on May 16, 2008 | Reply
  59. you ever find out your problem…im still trying to ive got the same code from auto zone… does your car jerk when you come to a stop…my does real bad now and i just cant make sense of it..any info would be appreciated and if i find anything ill let you know..thanks

    By justin on May 16, 2008 | Reply
  60. I have a 2003 vw jetta gli vr6…. i just got a magnaflow cat back exhaust and magnaflow catalytic converter…. since then my check engine light has been on and when scanned, got the error code p1118… what does this mean and how do I get it fixed without out removing my brand new performance parts???

    By Bobby on May 17, 2008 | Reply
  61. Dan Volkens

    Hey Justin, is it your transmission causing the jerking, or is it the brakes? Here’s a thread on talking about the P0420 code. That might get you pointed in the right direction for a repair I hope. :)

  62. Dan Volkens

    For yours Bobby, sounds like a problem with the 02 sensor on the catalytic converter. Make sure those were reinstalled properly after installing your aftermarket exhaust and it should fix the problem.

  63. and also, When i shift, or push my rpm’s over 4500, my exhaust is backfiring… could it be the new caT? however a friend has the same exhaust as me and zero backfire… I’m incredibly irritated

    By Bobby on May 18, 2008 | Reply
  64. Hi Dax,

    So i took my car into the shop and they replaced the sensor and a gasket. Driving home that night it came back on! I dropped it off this morning at the same place. He said it is nopw reading Cooling System performance code. He is going to keep the car and do some test that the car has to be cold (so in the morning) have you ever heard of this? or any idea what it may mean?

  65. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cybil, I haven’t heard of this myself, but it does at least sound like you have a reputable mechanic to work with. Hopefully they’ll track down the problem and completely clear it up for you.

  66. My check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago – was only one for about 5 minutes – then went out. Stayed off for about two weeks, but came on again when I was driving home from work. It was on again this morning. I looked it up in the mannual and it said that it was an emissions problem. I have a trip planned this weekend and is a 3 hour drive. I am worried that driving it that far could be damaging. I do not want to break down. Any suggestions?

    By Carin on May 21, 2008 | Reply
  67. Dan Volkens

    Hi Carin, your best bet is to take it to either one of your local auto parts shops or the dealer to get the computer codes scanned so that you know exactly what you’re dealing with. Then you can make an informed decision whether or not you should drive that far. Hope that helps! :)

  68. Hey dax,
    Just an update on my 2002 vw jetta with the MIL light that wouldn’t go off. My mechanic replaced the catalytic converter with one from Volkswagen and it has stayed off since.

    Thanks for your comments!

    By Neil on May 22, 2008 | Reply
  69. Dan Volkens

    Great Neil! Glad it’s all patched up. He didn’t charge you a kidney for it, did he? ;D

  70. i have a 2002 vw beetle turbo, about 3 weeks ago the check engine light came on, took it to the dealership, codes 5051, 5052 or 5052B were found. the dealership said it was because i’d installed an out of manufactured radio in the car. a wire and a nut was cut and installed. picked the car up a day later, water was on the the back passenger floor, the dealership said it was a clogged pollen filter drain, it was replaced, picked the car up 2 days, the check engine light is on. returned it to the dealership, the cause this time is a turbo recirculating valve, the valve was replaced. picked up the car once again and the check engine light has returned. each invoice shows the same codes as before. i called the svc mgr he said he could only identify one problem at a time, as this is how the vw is made. is this true and will i have to continuously return to the dealership until they have replaced every part? i purchased the extended warranty, but my cost keeps adding up.

  71. Dan Volkens

    Hi Cynthia, this is definitely not true, and it sounds like the dealer is trying to milk every bit of labor time he can out of your repairs. I would take it to another dealership in your area. And let’s hope they treat you right the first time. :)

  72. How much was the VW cat and was it covered under warranty? I have 2003 VW Jetta that had a univ cat converter put on in Jan 2008 and EML light just came on and getting p0420 code.

    By Palma on May 28, 2008 | Reply
  73. thanks dan…please tell me the meaning of codes 5051, 5052 or 5052B.

  74. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cynthia, These codes are retrieved when someone scans your car’s computer with a generic OBDII scanner, and don’t actually give out any information about the codes. Places such as autoparts shops, who scan your computer for free, will usually end up with these codes and should refer you to a Volkswagen dealer or mechanic who has the specific equipment to pull the real codes.

    So in short, they don’t actually tell you what the problem is. Again, I would go to a more reputable dealer who essentially knows what they’re doing and gets you taken care of properly. It sucks when we run into places like these who don’t really care about the customer or whether they do the job right or not.

  75. I have a 2002 gti 1.8t and the cel is on (not blinking, just on). It runs perfectly fine, not a problem at all. The fluids are fine and the gas tap is tightly on. What is the problem??? It’s driving me crazy!

    By Kiera on May 29, 2008 | Reply
  76. Dan Volkens

    Hey Keira, a cel could be any number of things. You’ve checked all the basics, so that’s good and it eliminates those. You’ll need to have the codes scanned, either at a local auto parts shop or the dealer to find out what the problem is.

  77. boo haha, thanks dax!

    By Kiera on May 29, 2008 | Reply
  78. Dan Volkens

    Yeah, I know, it sucks dealing with this stuff. Let’s just say your GTI is building character. lol

  79. Jetta 2002 automatic transmission. Rolls backward when in drive and on any hill. Does it every morning and at stop lights. Have to brake with one foot and give gas with the other and hope no one is too close behind me. Did not do it when I took it to the dealership. Don’t know why it does it. Any suggestions?

  80. Dan Volkens

    Very odd kia. Let’s see if anyone else can give you some insight into the problem. That shouldn’t be happening on an automatic unless you’re on a very steep incline.

  81. I have a 2001 Jetta 4d sedan with 102,000 and the check engine light just came on. Is there a mileage reason that it appeared, or is it something else? The car appears to be running normal. Any thoughts?

    By Jeff on Jun 11, 2008 | Reply
  82. Dan Volkens

    Hi Jeff, there’s no mileage limit before the check engine will come on, such as to warn about an upcoming service interval or the like, so I would get it in and have it checked out.

  83. Hey there I recently bought a 2003 GTI Turbo with a chip and now the cel has come on and stayed on I have taken it to get it scaned and it’s comming up no faults found but says it’s running lean, any ideas???? Thanks a bunch!

    By Jennifer on Jun 16, 2008 | Reply
  84. Dan Volkens

    Hi Jennifer, was the chip installed recently? If so, it will take the computer a bit of time to reconfigure to the new configuration and that could cause it to run lean. Not sure of any other reasons for it, but you’ll want to continue to investigate what’s going on with it.

  85. Hello, I have an 01 Jetta 2.0 and I have two problems with it. The first is that my key fob doesn’t work for locking the car but it works for unlocking the trunk and doors. I am pretty sure that the problem lies within the driver’s side door. I replaced the CCM but it didn’t fix the problem. The next problem I have is with my temp gauge. It works only sometimes and it moves around randomly on occasion. It never goes beyond normal limits but the whole situation is strange. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    By daniel on Jun 25, 2008 | Reply
  86. Dan Volkens

    Hey Daniel, not sure about your keyfob problem. That’s a strange one. Could be a bad button on the keyfob itself for the locking mechanism?

    The dancing temp gauge is most likely signifying a bad temp sensor, so I’d get that checked out as soon as you can. If anyone else has any ideas, please let Daniel know!

  87. My wife’s ’03 Jetta with 56K miles and no warranty left had it’s check engine light go on a few months ago. We took it to the dealer when it was still under warranty but they charged us $95.00 to check it out. They claimed it was a thermostat that needed to be replaced at a cost of $315.00 (No lie! Bob “Rip-Me-Off” Boast Dodge/VW in Bradenton, FL) Was not running hot, took it to my regular mechanic who replaced the temperature sensor twice! Engine light still on! Any ideas??? Please? My wife is really upset! Thanks!

  88. Have 4-dr 4cyl 2001 Jetta, check engine light on. Take it to vw mechanic, installed new cataylatic converter. Check engine light came on again after 25 miles, O2 issue…i forgot the details. Mechanic fixed….. a day or 2 later light on again. Mechanic took it back, thinks it a sensor issue, cause it is another cataylatic converter code, and the converter is 2 weeks new…….recommended I take it to dealer, as it may be associated with past recall….any other ideas? took car to Emissions, with check engine light on and it failed. getting tired. Car scheduled for dealership appt on Saturday.

    By Paula on Jun 27, 2008 | Reply
  89. So, how about an EPC light? electronic pedal control? it used to come on randomly, I’d restart it, it’d be fine. But now I can’t get past 11 RPM w/o it coming on. What gives??

  90. I have a 03 VW New Beetle Turbo S, the CEL came on right after I put gas- While at a stop light, I noticed the CEL blinking, then stay on- Upon acceleration, the car feels as if it’s going to lose power-when shifting gears it feels like I’m driving on a bumpy road. I had no choice but to drive it to work. I have no clue of what’s going on with it… Any information would be appreciated… Thank you.

    By CLAUDIA on Jul 2, 2008 | Reply
  91. Dan Volkens

    Hi Claudia, since this started happening right after you fueled up, you may have gotten a batch of bad gas, which is causing your engine to misfire or generally not run very well. In any case, try not to drive it much if at all especially since the check engine light is flashing, until you can get it in to a mechanic or dealer to find out what’s going on.

  92. Hi,
    I have a 2003 vw GTI 1.8l Turbo. I was driving it home today and it started missing and the check engine light started flashing. I checked all the spark plugs and they all looked great. Do you have any ideas how to ceck the coils on the plugs. It seems like it has a dead cylinder.

    By Jeremy on Jul 4, 2008 | Reply
  93. Hi everyone,
    I have a 2003 Jetta GL 2.0. The CEL came on a couple of days ago..The car has over 49K.. am the second owner. The dealer told me that the engine is covered till 60K..but in the manual it says it’s covered for 50K or 4 years whichever comes first I think, but it might different in some states. Do you know what the rules are in Idaho? Also, do you think an Auto zone diagnosis would be as accurate as the dealership’s diagnosis?

    By Sabir on Jul 4, 2008 | Reply
  94. Dan Volkens

    Jeremy, sounds like you have a bad coilpack, which was an extremely common problem with the MkIVs. That repair should be covered, so get that checked out asap!

  95. Dan Volkens

    Hey Sabir, the warranty on a 2003 Jetta is:

    Basic: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
    Drivetrain: 5 yr. / 60,000 mi.
    Roadside: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
    Rust: 12 yr. / Unlimited mi.

    More details at

    Also, the Autozone scan won’t be as detailed as the dealer scan, so I’d advise taking it in and getting everything patched up before the warranty runs out!

  96. I had a quick question. I bought my car used its a 2002 VW Jetta GLS with 95,000 miles. After driving it for a while i notice that when in stop and go traffic or an area with alot of stop lights, when i accelarate my car would seem like it has problems shifting, there would be a big clunk and i would be jerked forward. I took it to the dealership and they told me that no codes were stored about having issues at the shifting points and there is nothing they can do. I had them take it for a test drive and they couldnt get the car to act up. It doesnt happen offten but i just feel that it shouldnt happen at all. and i dont know why an error code wouldnt register. Do you think you could fill me in on the issue im having?

    By Cody on Jul 5, 2008 | Reply
  97. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cody, my wife’s 2005 Jetta has the same problem. It happens very intermittently, and mechanics couldn’t find anything wrong with the transmission or any codes. It’s obviously some kind of problem with the transmission, which worries me. But we’ll be turning her car in sometime in winter I think, so hopefully nothing will happen in the meantime.

  98. I have a 1998 Jetta GLX with the VR6 Engine. Engine Light (CEL) comes on but after a while goes back out. My question is how long will the error code remain in the computer or does the error code automatically reset when the CEL goes out?

    By Ken on Jul 10, 2008 | Reply
  99. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ken, the CEL may go out, but the code will remain in the system until it’s cleared.

  100. I just bought a Jetta GLI 2006 a month ago. Just recently, when I turned on my engine the EPC and check engine light came on. It doesn’t seem like anything is wrong with it that I’ve noticed. It still has the 50K warranty– do you have any ideas about what it could be? 39K on the vehicle when I bought… so still about 39K ;)

    By Shehan on Jul 14, 2008 | Reply
  101. Dan Volkens

    Hey Shehan, I recommend getting that into the dealer to have it checked out, especially being so new and still under warranty.

  102. Hi, I have a 2003 Jetta GTI with 62k miles. It just failed Arizona emissions test and the reason is “coolant system performance”. The coolant looks good and I have always done regular maintenance on the car. Any advice?

    By Greg on Jul 18, 2008 | Reply
  103. Dan Volkens

    Hey Greg, it might be related to a faulty coolant temp sensor, which there is a recall out on in case you haven’t had that repair done yet. I’m not sure myself whether that could cause emissions failure on that reason, but I guess it’s a possibility. :]

  104. I have a 2001 New Beetle. Recently I was driving to another city and had the AC on. The engine seems to be running roughly when I’d start from first (after stopping for gas). Yesterday I was driving around town and it was doing well until that rough engine action returned, along with a flashing check engine light. The engine seemed really hot so I left it parked overnight. Drove it home this morning but the light was still flashing and the engine was shuddering the whole time. Am I looking at an expensive repair job? Thanks.

    By Susan G. Hauser on Jul 19, 2008 | Reply
  105. Dan Volkens

    Hi Susan, sounds like you may have gotten a bad batch of gas, since this only started right after fueling up. Other things to check would be bad coil packs in the engine or related parts (these control the ignition system). If it’s the coil packs, the repair should be covered under warranty. Your temperature gauge wasn’t going above normal, was it?

  106. Everything else was fine. But I filled my tank after that trip so it’s a new batch of gas and I’ve already gone through about half the tank. Thanks for your speedy reply.

    By Susan G. Hauser on Jul 20, 2008 | Reply
  107. Hi Dan! While getting my front drive shafts replaced, I asked my mech to check the CEL light that was on. He got the following codes p0421, p0431, p0491 & p0492.
    What do these codes mean, is it yet another costly repair & is it something that has to be fixed ?
    Also, what do you think of these “tornado’s” that you install & they are supposed to help with gas mileage?

    Thanks for your help!

    By Katie on Jul 21, 2008 | Reply
  108. and also… I just got my recall notice for the underbody something or another…. would these codes be related to the recall? ( that would be awesome if the recall fixed the issue too)

    By Katie on Jul 21, 2008 | Reply
  109. Dan Volkens

    Hey Katie, these codes usually have something to do with the emissions sensors, i.e. o2 sensor etc. Here’s a thread on talking about it. It shouldn’t be an expensive repair.

    As far as that “tornado” thing, sounds like snake oil to me. That would be a waste of your hard earned money. :)

    EDIT: hmm, what exactly is your recall stated for? It could be related if it has something to do with emissions.

  110. Auto Recall Date: 04/07/2008
    Estimated Vehicles Affected: 412000
    2002 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT Defect Summary:
    Defect Consequence:

    By Katie on Jul 21, 2008 | Reply
  111. Dan Volkens

    Ah, the fuel system recall. They will be doing work on the exhaust system installing new heat shielding, so you could try to have them to the work for those codes as well.

  112. Hi, I have a 1997 Jetta and the check engine light has been on for 8 years. No one has been able to tell me anything except that the car looks and runs great. I can’t register the darn thing in the state i moved to with this light on though. And I took it to Autozone and they can’t figure out where to plug in the scanner to scan my engine. I NEED to figure this out as cheaply as possible because I am broke. Where do you plug that bad boy in?

    By Gena on Jul 22, 2008 | Reply
  113. Dan Volkens

    Hey Gena, it’s usually somewhere under the dash. A CEL could mean just about anything, even though the car seems to run fine. If the autozone guys can’t get the job done, then a Volkswagen dealer can do it for you. It should be free unless they find a repair needs to be done. But that could vary from dealer to dealer.

  114. Could the O2 sensors issue be related to the heat shield recall? In other words can I somehow convince them the O2 went out because of the heat shield?

    By Katie on Jul 24, 2008 | Reply
  115. Dan Volkens

    I’m not sure Katie. It’s always worth asking at least. :)

  116. Hi there I have a 2003 VW GTI Turbo and I have just changed all the coils because the old ones were causing it to misfire so I ran a scan. It said #4 cylinder misfiring so i changed the coils and now they have brand new top of the line coils and she still isn’t happy she is still misfiring one day it will be #3 and then next number 4 and now it’s random misfire. Any ideas this is driving me nuts! I love my litte car and i’m trying to take good care of her but she is cranky!! :) Thanks again.

    By Jennifer Sanders on Jul 26, 2008 | Reply
  117. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jennifer, typically that problem is caused by bad coilpacks. But in my wife’s Jetta’s case, it turned out not only to be bad packs, but also some of the related wiring and other parts that needed replacement as well. So it could be something along those lines for you.

  118. Hey there, just bought an 03 jetta gli vr6 a week ago with pretty high miles (just shy of 100k). passed 100k yesterday and noticed the CEL @109K even though it drives fine. Pulled codes P3081 and P0420 from Autozone today at lunch. got back to work and noticed I didn’t hear anything when I locked the doors, but figured I was out of range. tried to go home just now and the car is dead. battery is fine, but no electrical signs whatsoever. all electrics came back when I put the key in the ignition so I tried to start it a couple of times with no luck and it eventually went dark again. it was my first venture into vw after knowing just hondas and it’s quite a disappointment so far. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

    By James on Aug 1, 2008 | Reply
  119. Dan Volkens

    Hey James, sorry for your troubles. Those are just a couple “character” quirks of VWs. *joke* Those codes are related to ignition and emissions, so I’m not exactly sure how that relates to your electrical problems. Could be that the battery is done for with that mileage, if the previous owner hadn’t replaced it.

  120. Hi Dan, the battery is a week old. since the car was sitting for awhile the seller replaced it for me. could a failing ecm cut off power to the whole system like I’m seeing? i’m going to try reconnecting the battery just in case it’s not on securely. is there a component that connects to the battery and distributes the power to the entire system?

    By James on Aug 4, 2008 | Reply
  121. Dan Volkens

    Could be possible that the battery is loose, although that would be odd. Be sure to check all connections. There is a circuit box (or something like that) on top of the battery that needs to be properly connected as well.

  122. thanks Dan. connection on the battery terminals were secure which I checked before, but found the connection to the ckt box on top was not which I missed. really didn’t look forward to replacing anything after draining my savings to buy the car. i’ll categorize this under user error.

    By James on Aug 4, 2008 | Reply
  123. Hi There, I have a 2003 1.6 New Beetle that has a lumpy idle and hesitation across the RPM band but especially between 2,000 – 3,000 RPM. I also have this error in VAG COM: 17526 – Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S2: Open Circuit
    P1118 – 35-00 – -

    I understand that this is the rear O2 sensor, would replacing this cure the lumpy idle etc?

    Very often I also experience fast idle for the first 2-3 minutes of running (up to 2,500RPM)

    I have already stripped and cleaned the throttle body and reset the throttle flap.

    I have also stripped and cleaned the wires in the MAF using MAF cleaner spray.

    Many thanks in advance for your expertise!

    By Simon Cooper on Aug 6, 2008 | Reply
  124. Dan Volkens

    Hey Simon, it sounds like you’ve done just about all you can from my perspective to get rid of the bad idle and hesitation. :) The bad sensor could be a result of running rich or maybe bad compression in a cylinder which could cause the idling and hesitation problems maybe?

  125. Hey Dan,

    Short version: What does running thin mean?

    Long version: I have a 2002 VW Passat with 26,000 miles on it. The engine light went on and I took it to the neighborhood mechanic who checked some of the obvious stuff, like vacuum hoses, and told me not to worry about it. Light came back on and I was already scheduled to take it to the dealership due to the millionth recall on the car. The dealer told me the light could be due to a variety of reasons, including a loose gas cap, and he’d charge me $100 to diagnose it. I took a pass (I can tighten a gas cap for free and I have had bad experiences with the dealership) and when I picked up the car for the recall repair, the light was off.

    Later, I filled the tank with gas and when I got back in the car, the light came back on.

    Neighborhood mechanic says his diagnostic device indicates the car is running “thin.” He said it’s not dangerous and should be OK driving a couple hundred miles for a trip.

    Also, my friend bought the same car (though hers is a manual transmission) at the same time and she says her light has been for over a year and has had no performance problems.

    I’ve done a bunch of googling and a lot of VW drivers have paid a lot of money to “fix” various diagnoses and later the light would come on anyway. I’d like to avoid unnecessary spending, but err on the side of safety.

    Thoughts? Thanks for any help!

    By lisa on Aug 8, 2008 | Reply
  126. Dan Volkens

    Hey Lisa, running thin or lean means that your air/fuel mixture is off, where there is more air than fuel going into the cylinder. Basically your engine isn’t getting enough gas for proper combustion. I wouldn’t suggest letting it remain in that condition for an extended period of time.

    When the check engine light comes on, very specific computer codes are entered into the system that should be scanned by any reputable mechanic to discover what problem is throwing the code. If your mechanic has checked the codes, it should point him in the right direction for a fix. It could really be anything in the car, so the codes definitely need to be checked out so you can have the proper repair scheduled! :)

  127. Hi Dan,

    I noticed in some of your responses that the black top coolant temp sensor is a recall and the dealer should replace it. Do you know where I might be able to find the specifics for the recall? I still have the p3081 code and my local dealer tells me it’s not a recall and it will cost around $280. At the very least, I’ll just buy the parts and do it myself, but if it is a recall I’d rather have them do it.

    By James on Aug 16, 2008 | Reply
  128. Dan Volkens

    Hey James, here’s a thread on that actually has scans of the recall/warranty extension letter from Volkswagen. I don’t know if/when that expired, so maybe it’ll help you to get the dealer to perform the repair. IF you have another dealer to go to in your area, you might want to try that if this dealer won’t do it.

  129. Just FYI – On the 94-99 Jetta/golf – the diagnosit connector is actually in the center of the car – there is a removeable blanking plate – I think it is to the left of your power lock/central lock button – pull off the cover, and there will be a plug under there. Hope that helps!

    By Sean on Sep 13, 2008 | Reply
  130. Dan Volkens

    Hey Sean, thanks for the extra info on the MkIII. :]

  131. 09/18/2008: Hi Sean. I purchased a 2002 VW Beetle, 1.8 Turbo, now has 67K. In the past 6 months I have replaced the following, given in specific order: Timing Belt; Water Pump; Mass Airflow Sensor; Battery; Gas Tank Door Switch; Throttle Body Module. After thousands of $s, and numerous trips to my mechanic… I thought the car was “good-to-go” for another 60K. Was I totally wrong!!! Yesterday morning while driving to work… the “check engine” light is on AGAIN!!! I just found your site this morning and had no idea that a place like AutoZone would run the codes on vehicles for free. I was paying 100 bucks for a diagnostics test EVERY SINGLE TIME my car was in for repair. Thanks for the info. My question to you is: After having those 6 major components replaced. What could possible be the cause of the re-occurring “check engine light” THIS time?

    By Bernadette on Sep 18, 2008 | Reply
  132. Dan Volkens

    Hey Bernadette, I would make sure to have them check the “coilpacks” in your engine. These are notorious for going bad, and will cause cylinder misfire amongst other things. Hope that helps get it tracked down!

  133. Hi, I have a 2002 golf gl and the check engine light came on a bout a month and a half ago after I filled it with gas (and did not tighten the cap). I figured that is what it was from & it comes on randomly ever since then…
    Today I turned the car on and it sputtered and that light started flashing, so I turned it off right away….
    I must have been wrong about it being the gas cap before… :( Anyone know what that is?

    By lisa on Sep 20, 2008 | Reply
  134. Dan Volkens

    Hey Lisa, when this happened with my wife’s Jetta, it turned out to be bad “coilpacks”, which are part of the ignition process and the spark plugs. You can have the computer codes scanned for free at a local auto parts shop to find out what might be going on, if you don’t want to take it to the dealer first.

  135. this morning my bf drove my car (2003 passat 1.8t) to work (poor thing, he just had his aprilia towed to the shop and had to drive my car), when the CEL came on – the car dropped WAY down in rpms, shook, sputtered .. you name it. he was really close to work so when he got their his shop mates checked it out and said it appears that the passenger side firewall had come loose and was sitting on the headers which was causing the firewall to melt and smoke. we are taking it in to the shop tonight. i will keep you posted. im just wondering if this has anything to do with the heat shield recalls. hmmm.

    By marina zar on Oct 6, 2008 | Reply
  136. maybe its the coilpacks!

    By marina zar on Oct 6, 2008 | Reply
  137. Dan Volkens

    Hey Marina, those symptoms sound like the coilpacks, but if the firewall is loose, that’ll definitely need to be fixed as well. :]

  138. it was the #4 coil. the dealership is charging me for parts ($45) and labor ($155). i hear its easy to replace but i have zero time so guess that’s that. when i first got my car this happened but the dealership in texas replaced with no questions asked. this dealership in WA is charging stating the recall has expired. i call VWOA and they confirmed that the recall is a done deal. ugh.

    By marina zar on Oct 7, 2008 | Reply
  139. (sorry is this posts twice) I just bought a 2003 GTI VR6 runs great. I stalled it yesterday and shortly after that my check engine light came on i took it to my mechanic and he read the code and said that it said it ran too lean, but that was only recored once. He erased the code and then my car took 3 tries to start up again. Now today everything seemed fine and randomly driving home my check engine light came on again. The car drives great but the only thing i have noticed is that when i first start driving it in the morning it makes a whining sound in first gear. What could this be?

    By krystal on Oct 8, 2008 | Reply
  140. Dan Volkens

    Hey Krystal, sounds like you might have the warm stall issue that these engines have. A TSB (technical service bulletin) was issued for the repair, and will be covered under warranty if you still have warranty left. If not, I think they should only charge an hour of labor for the job as it’s just a computer flash.

  141. Would the type of fuel i am putting in have anything to do with that?

    By krystal on Oct 12, 2008 | Reply
  142. Dan Volkens

    Hey Krystal, yes, be absolutely sure that you only use premium gas in the VR6. The computer can compensate for lower octane gases, but all it’s really doing is preventing knock and predetonation in the cylinders.

  143. I have a 2000 New Beetle with a 1.8 Turbo and 5 speed manual trans with 73,000 miles. The check engine light has been on for a while and more recently the airbag light came on and stays on. Have not noticed any performance issues. Had it serviced, had the CEL reset by a mechanic and then it passed CA emissions, but shortly after emissions test, CEL came back on. Still no performance issues so have been driving it for a couple of months with no problems. Then this morning, I noticed the brake light on and the ABS light. I checked the parking brake, but was disengaged. Then, after a few miles, the brake warning lights went off. However, on the way home from work later that day, all of the sudden a variety of lights started flickering, brakes, ABS, CEL and some others all flickering, engine sputtering and at the same time the radio quit playing. Could not get radio to come back on. Finally the engine died and it would not restart like it had a dead battery, but hazards and other lights still worked fine and were bright. After a few minutes of sitting alongside the road thinking I needed a tow truck, it restarted. I drove it a few blocks to the house and it started sputtering so bad, it would not even move or accelerate. I get the whole thing about having it checked for a code due to CEL, but the radio thing just kind of confuses me. Ever heard of that before?

    By Dana on Oct 15, 2008 | Reply
  144. Hi.

    I have a 03, wolfsberg edition jetta. I just recently got it back from the dealer in ref to 2 motor fans, temp sensor, and a water pump ($1995.00 by the way :() it has been running perfectly! now yesterday i was leaving work and the check engine light came on.. and its kinda shaking. once i drive the check engine starts blinking then i stop and it stops blinking. Its not running hot at all and i feel like i’ve had so much fixed what else could be wrong. ? any ideas and possibly costs? could it be something they already repaired or should i just take it elsewhere because its a new problem? pls tell me im not looking at an arm and a leg again lol. BTW I find your website very helpful. :)

    By Stacie T on Oct 15, 2008 | Reply
  145. Dan Volkens

    Hi Stacey, there is a recall out for a problem with the “coilpacks”, which is part of the engine’s ignition system. if one or more of those goes bad, it can cause those problems. Granted, other things can as well, but that might be your first step in finding out what’s wrong.

  146. What is a good price to have a coolant temp sensor replaced in a 1999 golf. My shop quoted $65.

    By Mark LoRusso on Oct 21, 2008 | Reply
  147. Dan Volkens

    Hey mark, that sounds like a pretty good price. I can’t imagine getting it cheaper anywhere, as places usually charge more than that just for labor. :) Good luck!

  148. Thanks Mark you were exactly right.. it was just a coilpack # 4… Not expensive at all . thanks

    By Stacie T on Oct 21, 2008 | Reply
  149. I have a 2003 GTI 1.8T. I am the second owner. I absolutely LOVE my car and when this one has seen its day I will be the first owner of a brand new one. Anyway, I had my CEL come on this weekend and I took it to a shop today to find out what was wrong. Nothing was out of the ordinary, no lack of power, not a thing I could see. Well, I took it to a local shop and they plugged into the computer. The results they got said “temperature too low.” They said it could be a thermostat or a timing belt, however, I had the water pump and thermostat replaced because I ran into the oh-so-common 2003 problem at 58,000 (I now have 83,000). At the same time I had the timing belt changed because they had to take it off anyway to get to the water pump. That was around June last year (I know, I drive A LOT). Anyway, the point is what could cause the car temp to be too low? Is it a bad thing – certainly not as bad as too hot I hope. If indeed it is a thermostat should I replace it ASAP or what? Thanks for any advice – I love this site by the way!

    By Alisha on Oct 27, 2008 | Reply
  150. Oh, sorry, I forgot to add – it is a manual transmission AND the light came on during one of the cooler days we had here in Florida…if that makes any difference…

    By Alisha on Oct 27, 2008 | Reply
  151. Dan Volkens

    Hey Alisha, there was a recall out for the coolant temp sensor. Now I don’t know if a bad one would cause your symptoms, but I imagine it’s possible. I’d get that checked out and hopefully you’ll have a free repair!

  152. hi, i have a 1999 new beetle, with a trouble code: p1426, fuel tank ventilation valve open, where is located this valve? i was looking for in the haynes repair manual,and i did not found it, what can i do to repair?

    By erik on Nov 3, 2008 | Reply
  153. Dan Volkens

    Hey Erik, I’m not sure where that is either. I suggest posting your question in the appropriate forum at Someone there should be able to point you in the right direction.

  154. Hi I have a 2002 Volkswagen 1.8 Turbo Passat and everything was fine as far running goes. But then about a month ago I was pulling out of a parking lot on to a 4 lane highway with a turning lane in the middle, I pull out into the turning lane and stop everything was fine up until this point, when I went to accelerate to merge over into the other lane, thats when my car started to shake and the MIL light started to flash and there was also a knocking noise, it almost seemed as thought the care was stalling out. I pulled off into a parking lot and shut the engine off. Called someone to come look at it, when they arrived we took it to the dealership I bought it from. They said they would take a look at it and call me when they know something. Well their first attempt to fix it was two coil packs were faulty and not firing they changed them and later install two more. After they did this they stated the car would not start, and that it had no spark, and from there they replaced the cam position sensor, it started but still had the knocking, Up untill this point it all had been covered under my warranty, Now the tech. says that excess fuel that traveled into the exhaust system collected in the catalytic convertor, left over from the coils, the fuel collected in the catalytic convertor. The catalytic convertor is not covered and surprise it will cost you $751.54. I don’t think so, so I picked my car up and am trying to find out what is wrong with it. Here is what I know while driving it when getting up to a certain speed the shaking stops and the car runs smooth, the gas mileage is way down, and longer you drive the more it knocks, when I take off there is little power and it takes awhile to get up to speed. Any ideas? Suggestions? I know I made a mistake in taking it to the dealer who isn’t even a VW dealer.

    Another issue I have in this car is with the radio, when it’s on and you turn the volume all the way down the radio freezes up and the volume won’t come back up. I have to turn it off wait a few seconds turn it on wait till it comes all the way on and they adjust the volume, any ideas about this?? Is there anyway to reset or do I just need to have it replaced?

  155. Dan Volkens

    Hey D, sorry for the delayed reply. Your problem did sound like bad coilpacks, but I’m not sure if it could have fouled your catalytic converter. It does makes sense, but the price they quoted to replace it is outrageous, so good thing you didn’t have them do that. I’d get a second opinion elsewhere. I’m not sure about the radio problem. Haven’t heard of anything like that. Let’s see if someone else chimes in on that one.

  156. Hi there! I have a 2005 Passat 1.8L 4 Cylinder with 55k miles. Last night, my wife was driving home and the CEL came on then began to flash at her. Also, the car shook badly almost like it was missing gears or something but it wasnt quite that same feeling…We immediately parked the car and havent driven it since after reading that the flashing CEL could mean serious damage. SO, after doing a bunch of research, it looks like others have has this problem and many ppl have said the dealer quickly wrote off the problem as a coil pack issue, which wound up not being the problem. I live an hour away from the VW dealership and cant afford to make multiple trips. SO i am wondering if the diagnostic tools at the dealership always give off the right codes, AND is my issue one you have seen or heard of frequently?

    By zbuck on Nov 17, 2008 | Reply
  157. Dan Volkens

    Hey zbuck, bad coilpacks is the most common problem when those symptoms occur, but it doesn’t have to be. Although it’s best to hope that is all the problem is, as that’s a simple repair! :D The dealer’s diagnostics won’t lie, but you may or may not be able to rely on the mechanic who worked on your car.

    Now, since you’ve already been to the dealer and they said it wasn’t the issue, then didn’t they propose what might be wrong or investigate further?

  158. Check engine light has been on for months on 2001 Jetta gls wagon. Recently car sometime starts rough and seems to run on 2-3 cylinders. But turn it off, and it starts up and runs perfect right after. Happens about once every two weeks. Ideas?

    By Jeff Henderson on Nov 18, 2008 | Reply
  159. I have a 2003 jetta with 32K miles – it’s been a pain since 2005!! i read all these problems with engine light going on . I wonder why is VW not issuing a recall ?? I’ve been to dealers, local mechanic and they do the usual scan/reset the light. I finally found a solution – I SOLD this money pit and been very happy with the Chevy Cobalt!!

    By Rusty Lee on Nov 19, 2008 | Reply
  160. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jeff, again, most common problem when these symptoms occur is bad coilpacks. And to answer Rusty at the same time, there is a recall out for this repair, and should be taken care of with no problems.

  161. Hi! I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. One day I was driving and had the check engine light come on, just solid, not flashing. Anyway, I took it to the dealership who charged me buko-bucks to have the codes read and turns out it was the coolant temp. sensor and the thermostat sensor. Well, I chose not to have them fixed that day because I am ending my lease on it early. Two weeks later, the light came on again, and I had my friend just read the sensors and get the light off of there so I didn’t end up paying for the senors to be read again at the dealership. That was a week ago and I turn my car in tomorrow…is there any way to tell how long before it goes on again?! Thanks!

    By Jamie M on Nov 21, 2008 | Reply
  162. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jamie, the coolant temp sensor should be repaired under a recall, and the thermostat sensor should still be warrantied, no? It would have been best to just get the jobs done, but unfortunately there isn’t a way that I know of of knowing when the CEL will be thrown again. I don’t think that leasing companies scan the codes upon turn-in inspection, but if that light is showing, that won’t be a good thing! :)

  163. I have no idea if it is under warranty actually. How would I find the info to get that fixed? If it is still under warranty, wouldn’t they be able to fix it free of charge then? I honestly have had the worst luck with this car. Tons of problems! TONS! 2 CV Boots, a door handle, 2x repaired whistling window amongst other things. I recently purchased a 09 Lexus IS250, so hopefully that will solve the problems. HA! I appreciate your quick response. Hopefully the light doesn’t come on. If it does, I think a quick stop to get it scanned at a automotive place might just be the trick. I know, I should have gotten it fixed…but I admit that I was a bit bitter about the car at that point. Thanks again – BLOG is extremely helpful.

    By Jamie M on Nov 21, 2008 | Reply
  164. Dan Volkens

    Whether it’s still under warranty or not will depend on its mileage, but being an ’03, I assume it’s probably out of warranty anyway. If it was still under, they would repair for free.

    As every car manufacturer has problems of one sort or another, you had some with that Passat. But it sucks that there were so many! :) I would fully expect none, or very minimal problems, with a Lexus as its not in the same category as Volkswagen. Lexus should be compared to Audi. :)

    No problems, that’s what we’re trying to provide. Just share the knowledge!

  165. Hey Dan.

    I have a 2001 Vr6 GTi. The car has been running relatively well for the three years which I have owned it. About two weeks about I received the dreaded CEL. I believe it came with the change of seasons (if that makes any sense). The car sputters under 2200 RPM, popping sounds originate from the engine at times, and is not making the power which I have become accustomed to.

    I took the car to a shop that seemed reliable, and specialize in VWs. The scanned their computers and told me that they found that a cylinder was misfiring, and that they narrowed the problem down to a bad fuel injector. My friend who has several years experience as a mechanic, tells me for a car which has less than 50 k miles, a bad fuel injector seems unlikely. I did searches of CEL problems on the internet and very few VW people have had problems with fuel injectors. The shop is asking for 800 dollars which i would rather not fork over so readily.

    By Greg on Dec 2, 2008 | Reply
  166. Dan Volkens

    It is odd. I don’t hear often of bad fuel injectors. Make sure they check the coilpacks and related parts. That’s FAR more likely to go bad than the injector. And that price, ppffftttt, forget that! That’s absolutely ridiculous. You may want to try elsewhere.

  167. please email me what are the things that can cause touareg r5 not to give information to scan and not to showing check engine light

    By tony on Dec 14, 2008 | Reply
  168. Hi

    I have a 2003 Jetta wolfsberg edition.. Lately I have been driving it and getting a clicking noise when I turn the wheel.. no resistance some automechanic I dont fully trust yet told me that its my axel. on the passenger side its broken. He said it will run me approx $200-$250. Does this diagnostic and price sound pretty reasonable to you? thanks in advance

    -stacie t

    By Stacie T on Dec 19, 2008 | Reply
  169. Dan Volkens

    Hey Stacie, it sounds correct, but be sure to have someone check the “CV boots/joints” on both sides of the car. This sound is usually a symptom of those going bad. The mechanic “may” have to just axel cause he didn’t want to go into detail with you, but be sure to doublecheck! The price doesn’t sound horrendous, but getting a second opinion might score you a cheaper price.

  170. Hey thanks alot for the advice. I have one more question, Is the CV boots/joints something that needs to be repaired right away? or should I be able to hold off after the holidays? :)

    By Stacie T on Dec 20, 2008 | Reply
  171. Dan Volkens

    No probs. :) If that’s the problem, I don’t recommend letting it go very long at all. Best to have that problem repaired, and in the meantime trying to drive as little as possible.

  172. My daughter has a 2001 VW beetle turbo. We just recently had sludge removed and flushed from her car. Cost about 1800.00 from dealer ship. The other day she was stopped at the stop light and her car went completely dead. Lost all power as if it had turned it’s self completely off. She tried to restart it but it would not. Then about 1 hour later I went to pick it up because it had to be pushed into a parking lot. It started up fine. No code lights are on. No check engine lights are on. Seems to be running fine as usual. What would cause this car to do this? Took it to 2 different shops in town neither could get anything to come up on their computers.

    By Mbrown on Dec 29, 2008 | Reply
  173. Dan Volkens

    Ouch, sludge baaad. :( Sorry for that man. That’s a very strange one. Couldbe an electrical problem, whether alternator, somewhere in the ignition or coilpacks, etc. But I’m not sure. No codes have been thrown with that, huh?

  174. No codes yet. I drove it several times today and seems to be fine. My husband was thinking maybe in the ignition also. I guess we will see if it happens again or if it thows a code. So far the check engine light hasn’t even come on. We are going to check the alternator just for the heck of it. Thanks for your help.

    By Mbrown on Dec 29, 2008 | Reply
  175. Hi, I’ve had the 60k maintanence done on my car, only about 30k later when i finally took possesion. I’ve got a ’03 Jetta w/ 1.8T engine. I had to have mine towed to the dealership for a faulty coil packs. But while there had them replace timing belt and water pump too. With all that plus, new spark plugs (i bought the wrong type and they had started to back out with in 15 minutes of driving it after changing them, I’m not joking.) Plus a reflash of the ECM, and labor included it was around $1300. Granted after they drove the car, I found out my clutch was bad. I didn’t know because this is the first 5spd i’ve driven other than my brother ’94 jetta and i know his is even worse than mine before I got it fixed. they replaced the clutch and flywheel. I had the car for 6 months at that point, so i know it wasn’t me. Anyway, with all that it was $3100. Real step, but I feel confident that the car isn’t falling apart anytime soon. But I do have a question. I recently took my car in again to have them check out code P2181. they diagnosed it as the thermostat, 2 hours of labor and $400+ out of my pocket, i had my car back. ( this is a different dealership, i don’t trust this one. ) Any way, this seems way way to high. in any case, i went to change my oil this weekend and notice that my dipstick tube is broken. My question is this: are the tube and thermostat near each other? I didn’t have time to call that dealership back yet about it. But i’m planning on it. twasn’t broken before I took it in.

    By Matt on Dec 29, 2008 | Reply
  176. Dan Volkens

    Hey Matt, yeah, lots of repair but at least you know those things are taken care of. As far as the thermostat, there is a recall out for that if the thermostat has a black colored top. The new one is green colored. So that repair should be done free of charge to you, and even if it wasn’t, that’s an insanely high price so I wouldn’t go back there.

    Here are some details about that recall. I hope you can at least get this one done for free!

  177. hey, i have a 03 vw gti 1.8t. it has 95,000 miles on it and has had all the things done to it like it was soposed to for the turbo. The problem im having is when im driving with the raido on but all the way down the lights on the dash and head lights start flashing and a whining sound comes from the speaker??? i have put a new altinator and battery in it and after reading a bunch of things it seems I should check the coil packs? once i turn the car off and restart it, it is fine??? also one day this was going on and it sounded like an arching sound from behind the raido? it still has the stock radio but im wondering if the person that had it before me had a aftermarket head unit in and put the old one back in to resell and did not connect the wires right?? i have no idea on this one!! HELP PLEASE!!!

    By Bobby on Jan 6, 2009 | Reply
  178. Dan Volkens

    Hmm, you might be correct on the radio not being wired back up properly there, Bobby. Have that checked out, especially since you’ve replaced the batter and alternator. Only other options are the radio, or wiring somewhere in the system is bad.

  179. I own a 97 Jetta GLX. A couple days ago, just after gassing up my check engine light started blinking (about 5 blinks) and then went solid, I pulled over and checked under my hood and saw that a cable/spark plug connecting to my engine was arcing. I handed my car over to my mechanic, he’s pretty good but the only VW mechanic in town. He replaced the cables and I drove off and the check engine light turned on again, 5 blinks and then solid. I’ve noticed when I was driving that every so often I feel a couple little putters and then my car goes back to normal. Since my car engine light has turned off once and turned back on, any advice would be great.

    By Arlo on Jan 12, 2009 | Reply
  180. Dan Volkens

    Hey Arlo, it was good that the cables were replaced, but that original problem could have nuked something else along the ignition line, so your best bet is to get it further checked out (have someone scan the computer codes to find out the exact problem) before driving too much if possible.

  181. Hey- It has recently gotten VERY cold here and my CEL came on yesterday morning when the actual temp was -10. Could I possibly assume that this will remedy itself when the temp warms up a bit… or ought I go ahead and get this fixed now?


  182. Dan Volkens

    Hey Beth, I’m not sure what could be causing that CEL. But you can get the codes scanned for free at a local auto parts shop, or have the codes scanned for free pending no real repairs are needed at a dealership. Good luck!

  183. Ok. so i live in the mexico-USA borderline, I live in Mexico(juarez) and drive to USA(El PASO) just about every other day. My point is the bridges have long waiting lines to cross over….about 30 minutes to an hour. This past summer at an outside temp of around 100 F, when I turn on my a/c on my 06′ 2.5 Jetta, it starts to heat up after 30 minutes of it being on. If I turn the a/c off, the heating stops and the car temp goes back to normal. If I cross the bridge and the temp on the car is high when I start to drive on I-10 the temp comes down as well. So it heats up only when its staled for a few amount of minutes. I’m at 53,000 miles, and when the car was at around 42,000 miles it would never had that problem….I’m afraid of the upcoming summer. What could my problem be? I wanna be ready for when I arrive to the dealership….oh yeah the check engine lights turns on when the a/c is on, and comes off after a few minutes of it being off.

  184. Dan Volkens

    Hey Fabian, You may have a problem with the fan in the engine bay. You can get that code scanned for free at a local auto parts store to find out what the actual problem is, or do it at a dealer as well and the scan will typically be free pending any repairs.

  185. Hi! I have a 2004 New Beetle. Right after I hit 50K miles, my CEL went on. I took it to the dealer and they said it was throwing the code P2181, the Coolent System. I took it to a VW mechanic since the warrenty was up and replaced everthing the dealership recommended (replaced the Coolent Sensor & Thermostat) . The mechanic cleared the code and the CEL came back on 3 days later. The mechanic cleared the code again…and the CEL came back on. We did this several times. So we decided to replace the water pump and timing belt. The pump was starting to go, so figured that was the cause. Wrong. The CEL has now been on for months. Please help, because I can’t afford a new car and I won’t be able to pass the Smog check.

    My co-worker has a 2004 Jetta and is having the exact same issues as stated above.

    By megan on Jan 21, 2009 | Reply
  186. Dan Volkens

    Hey Megan, good that you have an independent mechanic to do the work. I hope it’s a bit cheaper than the dealership. :) This is a strange one. Sounds like you’ve replaced just about every necessary item in the cooling system. Have you or the mechanic noticed any leaks in the system, or has he/she checked the head gaskets etc. for any leaks?

    Also, has the mechanic checked to see if the same code is being thrown, or a new one? There could be a new problem related to the replaced parts. I hope you get it sorted!

  187. The dealer was 1/2 the price of what the dealership wanted!

    It’s always the same code thrown, same with my co-worker. Both of our mechanics are at a loss. When I asked the dealership if there was something else needed, they said no.

    I saw one posting inquring about having VW reprogram the computer and not just clearing the code. Is that a possibilty?

    By megan on Jan 22, 2009 | Reply
  188. Dan Volkens

    Ok, hmm this is an odd one. Let me talk to one of my more techy friends and see what his thoughts are on it. :) Talk to ya very soon!

  189. Dan Volkens

    Ok Megan, here is the response from my friend, Nik, who writes for VB as well occasionally and is very well versed in Volkswagen tech:

    I guarantee you it has something to do with the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. I know the poster says it was replaced, but they need to make sure it’s the latest revision piece (green top, latest code). Since they’re cheap, I’d go as far as replacing it again. ECT is a fairly common, but fortunately cheap, fix on MKIV’s. My honest recommendation would be to take it somewhere else, sounds like this person is being taken for a ride by their “vw” mechanic. It’s either the ECT or thermostat, guaranteed. A good dealer will get to the bottom of this. Replacing water pump and timing belt on an engine with 50k miles is absurd, again I don’t trust this shop the person is going to.

    I honestly hope that your mechanic is being honest with you throughout these repairs. Have a look into the coolant temp sensor once again and please let us know how it goes!

  190. My 2003 vw beetle check engine light has been on for a few months. Then all of the dash lights start blinking and car dies. Was told alternator was bad. Had it replaced with new one and had problem again. This will be the second alternator replacement. Could it possibly be in the wiring?

    By Mylinda on Jan 26, 2009 | Reply
  191. Dan Volkens

    Hey MyLinda, if the alternator was indeed bad, it could have caused something else along the lines to have problems as well, but don’t quote me on that. Be sure to have your mechanic check the battery and cables along with any other electrical components to try to track it down. And even before all that, they should scan the computer to see if it has registered any codes and information related to the problem. That might reveal it right there. Good luck!

  192. I have a 2003 GLX Jetta 1.8t. My mil light came on. I took it and had it scanned. The code was for the coolant system. What could it possibly be? I checked coolant level, it is ok???

    By Sherlock on Jan 28, 2009 | Reply
  193. Dan Volkens

    Hey Sherlock, you may need to have your coolant temp sensor replaced, which is under recall. If it does need to be replaced, it will need to be changed from the “black top” sensor to “green top”.

  194. Hi. I have an 03 Jetta with about 62,000 miles and about 15 miles into my morning commute to work this morning a yellow light went on and stayed on in the control panel. It looks like an engine, and after looking it up at a stoplight int he manual, it appears to have something to do with the exhaust system. I stopped the car in a parking lot and turned it and back on–light is still on. I called my VW dealer who is about 90 miles from me and they thought it would be okay to drive until I can get it in, but my job requires me to drive a lot–in the next few days I have to drive probably 200 miles. I’d hate to have something go wrong on the highway or something. What do you think this could be? I haven’t checked the gas cap, but it’s been several days since I got gas, and it is very cold and snowy here…

    By Lissab on Jan 28, 2009 | Reply
  195. Dan Volkens

    Hey Lissab, the “check engine light”, or CEL (also sometimes called MIL), could indicate any number of problems with your Jetta, from very minor to major. If it came on and stayed on, you probably are ok driving it, but I recommend absolutely as little as possible. If the light is flashing constantly, you shouold turn off the engine immediately.

    Your next steps is to have the computer scanned for any codes that are causing the CEL, which should tell the mechanics what the problem is. Good luck!

  196. Hi My girlfriend has a 2000 Jetta 2.0. I recently took the car for service to get the CEL looked over that was poping up every other day. It was a Throttle Body Code and a Coolant temperature sensor. Now after the codes were cleared the CEL does not come on anymore but was wondering when I should replace the temperature sensor?? I also had another question, The engine when get close to Oil Changes starts to knock and become very loud is this normal?

    By Casey on Jan 29, 2009 | Reply
  197. Dan Volkens

    Hey Casey, the coolant temp sensor should be replaced for free as it’s under recall, so a win there. :) The knocking should not be happening, and I’m not completely sure, but if there’s a problem with the throttle body sensor, it could be causing that.

  198. Nice I love do I do that just call the dealer provide my vin and set an appoitment? As for the Engine noise it just sounds loud, yes they said the throttle body might need to be replaced our cleaned out they werent sure till they took it off and took a look. What should I do its 500$ just to replace the thing.

    By Casey on Jan 29, 2009 | Reply
  199. Dan Volkens

    Yeah, you will just need to schedule a service appt and tell them you’d like to have the coolant temp sensor recall done. $500 sounds steep for a replacement, so you may want to shop around for that. Good luck!

  200. hey dan, i have a 2003 gti 1.8t, and they engine light just turned on. and the codes it shot off were p0301 and p0201. it drives fine and idles good too, but peddle to the metal it start misfiring at 3000 rpm and only from 3000 to 5000 rpm it will like miss fire do you have any clue on how to fix this?

    By chris on Feb 1, 2009 | Reply
  201. Dan Volkens

    Hey Chris, yep, after researching those codes a bit, they are related to the misfiring. Now the most common problem to cause that is bad coilpacks or other parts in the ignition sequence. So I recommend you get it in as soon as possible and try not to drive too much if you can. Good luck!

  202. Hello,

    I drive a 2003 Jetta 1.8T with 80,000 miles on it. I have owned the car for a little bit over a year now. My MIL light came on about a month ago. I took the car to a mechanic, they told me nothing was wrong and they turned the light off. A couple of days later the light came on again. I have made sure that the gas cap is on tight. And don’t know what else to do. Any advice? Thanks!

    By Patrick on Feb 8, 2009 | Reply
  203. Hello,

    I have a 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition w/ 85,000 miles on it. When do you recommend I get the timing belt done?

    Thanks in advance,

    By Stacie on Feb 11, 2009 | Reply
  204. Dan Volkens

    Sorry for taking so long to reply. too much going on! :D

    Patrick: Something definitely has to be wrong if the light comes on. If your mechanic didn’t scan the computer for codes, which will tell what the problem is, I’d try another mechanic. Getting the codes scanned is the first step to finding out what’s up since the light could designate almost anything.

    Stacie: Now is the time to have that repair done. I don’t recommend waiting much longer. Good luck!

  205. Hello, I have a 2001 New Beetle Sport model with 102K miles. I left my house today & the engine didn’t respond when I stepped on the gas, it felt like the engine was throttling back. I drove the car about 2 miles, & the malfunction indicator lamp started flashing & kept flashing until the car was stopped. The car had no power. Any ideas? Thanks in advance !

    By Robert Kline on Feb 22, 2009 | Reply
  206. Dan Volkens

    Hey Robert, some common problems with the 1.8T engine (if that’s what you have in there – I think the Sports came with it) are bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, and coilpack problems. I believe both of these could present problems as you described. Your first step should be to get the computer scanned for the codes that threw the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). That should point your mechanics in the right direction for repair.

    Do you still have warranty left on your Beetle? Being an ’01, prolly not, but hopefully! :D

  207. Hey, I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t GLS, and I have been having some engine problems. The only mods I have done to the car are a GHL motosport exhaust system and a CAI from GHL. Recently my car sometimes stalls out while sitting at a stop light. Also it sometimes (while slowing down or just sitting at a stop light) goes into some kind of ‘limp mode’, where I can press the pedal all the way to the floor and there is limited acceleration. I took my car to a dealership and they replaced the MAF sensor, but two days later the same problems returned. I was just curious if the problem could be with my CAI? Also, the code they received, before replacing the MAF sensor, is P0102. Could you or anyone shed some light on what may be going wrong with my Jetta?

    By Robert Klink on Feb 25, 2009 | Reply
  208. Dan Volkens

    hey Robert, the bad MAF sensor is a very common problem, and that code is for exactly that. has the check engine light come back on again since the symptoms came back? The other very common problem with 1.8T’s is bad coilpacks.

    To test whether the CAI is indeed causing the problem, can you try replacing the original airbox for a while and see if the problem goes away. I hope that might help, and keep us updated! :)

  209. My husband and I have a 2005 Volkswagon Passat Wagon TDI that we purchased new from our local VW dealership. We have driven it approximately 50k miles. The VW service at the local dealership in town is notoriously bad, at least in our experience. Recently, we had the tires replaced by Goodyear and the tire guys told my husband that the car had no CV boots at all. (I hope I am getting this terminology right.) Anyway, my question (and I obviously know nothing about car maintenance) is whether it is odd to have the CV boots “disappear” like this? The dealership service dep’t quoted us a price of $500 (parts + labor) for the boots. Whaaaaaa happened?!

    By Jennifer Anderson on Feb 26, 2009 | Reply
  210. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jennifer, sounds like that tire dealer is shady as well, or at least they didn’t want to use more proper terminology in explaining to you and your husband what’s actually wrong. :)

    The boots wouldn’t completely go away, but what he could meant is that they’re so worn out that they’re basically gone. Now, it will be a bit of labor to do that repair, and unfortunately I might be looking into this on my GTI soon as well. So that price isn’t too outrageous, but if possible, try getting quotes from different dealers. Good luck!

  211. Hi, I just got a 07 Jetta, yesterday, with a manual transmission, and while I was test driving it I stalled (a little rusty with a standard I guess…) and the check engine light came on. They reset it there and said that it sometimes happens with standards which haven’t been driven for a while. However, today I was driving it, and the engine light came on without me having stalled at all.

    Is this still routine? What should I do?

    By Tiana on Mar 8, 2009 | Reply
  212. Dan Volkens

    Hey Tiana, congrats on your new Jetta. :) Sometimes the light will come on briefly upon a stall with a manual transmission, but it shouldn’t come back. You should still be under warranty, so you can have the dealer check everything out to make sure there isn’t some premature failure in an engine component or something. And all on the dealer’s dime. It shouldn’t cost you anything. :) Good luck!

  213. I have a ’02 VW Passat with 147,800 miles that just failed the MD emissions test due to P0421/P0431 and P0491/P0492 Chk Engine computer codes. Can you tell me what the codes mean and if the P0421/P0431 codes are about the catalyst converter does that mean I need to repleace the “cc” or does it mean that the sensors have gone bad?

    By Ron Allen on Mar 9, 2009 | Reply
  214. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ron, those codes are related to the catalytic converter, as you said, and most likely at your mileage it’s just bad sensors. I’d suggest checking that out first and see if the codes come back after repair.

  215. I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. I had the check engine come on last night just as I got home and didn’t think anything of it. Then this morning I go to drive to work. Start it up and check engine light is on again and it is running really rough. Left it home and read this blog today. Drove it to Autozone to get the code after work. Still running really rough and smells like “rotten eggs” when I get out of the car. The code that the guy at Autozone pulled out was P0305. He said it was mis-firing on cylinder 5 and most likely needed a spark plug or coil. Does this sound right and if so any idea as to what that kind of repair will run?

    By RTM on Mar 10, 2009 | Reply
  216. If it makes a difference, my 03 Jetta GLI has 37k miles on it.

    By RTM on Mar 10, 2009 | Reply
  217. Dan Volkens

    Hey RTM, that sounds about right. I can almost guarantee that it’s a bad coil pack causing the misfire. This is a very common problem on the 1.8T engines (though even my VR6 had it). Once you get that patched up, everything should be good to go. I wouldn’t recommend driving it unless absolutely necessary until you get it repaired. Good luck!

  218. I drive a 2003 Jetta GL 2.0. Only 2 years after owning it the engine light came on. Then it would self-correct a dozen times on and off until finally about the third year it stayed on- and has been on ever since. The whole while the car has run fine. The first time it happened the VW mechanic told me it was “the bad gasoline going around” the next time I asked (and they cleared the codes) I got “try tightening your gas cap”. Since then i’ve tried everything from running cross country on high test gasoline to replacing the gas cap. Still stays on. My question is this, if I have them finally fix the problem since it was under warranty when I first reported it (and they knew about it) would it be covered under warranty (that has now expired)? Second question is do you have any idea what this could be? I mean there is literally NOTHING wrong with this car except a pesky light on the dashboard- other than that it runs smooth, accelerates fast and starts up just fine.

    By Vee Dubya on Mar 13, 2009 | Reply
  219. Dan Volkens

    Hey Vee Dubya, it doesn’t sound like you have some very reputable mechanics, as at the very least they would scan the computer for the codes that threw the light, and make repairs accordingly. Or at least let you know what it was. It could really be any number of things, so without knowing the codes, I couldn’t really say what it is.

    As for getting something done under warranty that’s expired, when it should have been repaired while under warranty… good luck man. I agree with you, they should have done it when under warranty and you should be entitled to it, but I imagine a less than 1% chance they’ll agree to do it. :)

    But good luck, and let us know how it goes.

  220. I have a 2003 Jetta with 107k miles on it, and I had the CEL come on. I took it to the VW dealership, and they said it was the catalytic converter. They quoted me 950.00 dollars to fix it. This seems outrageous to me. Is it?

    By Eric on Mar 16, 2009 | Reply
  221. Dan Volkens

    Eric, that does sounds very high. I would try to get a second opinion, or at least have that dealer break down the costs completely for you. Good luck!

  222. I have a 2002 TDI wolkswagen jetta, and so afar i never really had any serious problems up until about a month ago. my jetta just shut down on me while driving home one night, i pulled over shut the ignition off than turned it back on and drove home safely. the next day i decided to dive my car to the only repair shop on the island i live on (molokai, hawaii), when i reached the repair shopi turned my ignition off, tried turning it back on but it would start suddenly than just shut off automaticlly. No one where i live have any clue to how to fix the problem. The ignition key sign blinks constintly when trying to start the car but till this day have no such luck inv using my jetta, it was towed to my house where it sits. Any advice in how do i go about trying to fix my car? or any clue to what is wrong with it?

    By jeanine on Apr 2, 2009 | Reply
  223. Hi Dan
    I have a 04 Passat, 1.8L turbo manual. I just had my 40K check up, drove about 18 miles and the MIL came on flashing while car was idling. Car has zero power, and even in neutral is running very rough. The only repairs they did at the 40K were flushing the brake fluid, replacing one CV boot, and replacing the lower engine cover. I am still under the power train warranty and also purchased an extended warranty when I purchased car at 35K. (That warranty covered the CV boot repair). Any ideas? I get from reading all the posts I should not attempt to drive it due to the flashing MIL, but is this a coil pack issue? I purchased the car from a VW dealer as a certified VW, so wouldn’t they have completed any recalls while they certified it? To my knowledge vehicle was a lease return. Appreciate any advice you have!

    By Spazz on Apr 5, 2009 | Reply
  224. Dan Volkens

    Hey Spazz, yep, sounds like a coilpack problem. At least, that’s the first thing to check out. And did the dealer not do the scheduled 40k service while they did those repairs you mentioned? That should be done as well.

  225. Thanks for the super fast response! They did complete the 40K, along with the repairs I listed. Is the vehicle safe to drive 8-10 miles to dealer or should I have it towed?

    By Spazz on Apr 5, 2009 | Reply
  226. Dan Volkens

    I’d lean on the safer side of towing it, I know extra expense, sucks, but oh well. :)

  227. Hi
    I got a 2002 VW POLO which I had serviced a couple of months ago at a cost of £550…only missed one service and done 53k miles , a few weeks later the EPC light came on whilst starting but kept on going off. Last week it came on during me driving (no beeping or blinking) and has stayed on. But it has been ok to start and drive/ Recently it is shaking once starting and the EPC light blinks but after a few revs it fixes itself and the engine returns to normal and is ok to drive. But i am wondering whether or not to take it in….i am worried that its gonna cost a fortune..any advice?? :)

    By Sinoeh Abili on Apr 7, 2009 | Reply
  228. Dan Volkens

    Hey Sinoeh, what the problem is might depend upon what was done to your car in that service you had done a couple months ago. It sounds like there could be a problem somewhere in the ignition system, like a misfire in one of the cylinders.

    Your first step should be to have the computer codes scanned. These will tell the mechanic what exactly is going on and what repair should be made accordingly.

  229. Hey Dan,
    I have a 1999.5 Jetta AEG engine, I have a CEL. The codes were P1128, P0300, P0301 and P0302. Erased the codes and the car had no power. Give it some gas and it would stumble, then after a few miles the CEL would come back. Only this time with the Misfire codes. I have changed the MAF, Front O2, plugs and wires (all after codes was detected). The car has 104k. Drove it around today about 25 miles before the CEL came back on. Still has a hesitation. It doesn’t have a miss, just very sluggish. It act like a lean condition (P1128). How do you check the fuel pressure, do I need to take a line loose and put a tee to a gauge? What should the vacuum be?

    By Steve on Apr 14, 2009 | Reply
  230. Dan-

    I have a 2004 GTI VR6 and my check engine line was flashing then turned solid. I read that it may be a catalytic converter problem.
    Also, the engine is idling very strong/weirdly

    Any thoughts?


    By JC on Apr 24, 2009 | Reply
  231. Dan Volkens

    Hey Steve, sorry for the delayed reply to ya man. Those questions are beyond my diminutive mechanics capabilities. :D I suggest you pose your question to the members of

    JC, could be that one or more of your coilpacks have gone bad. That’s at least the first place to check, and is a VERY common problem.

    Good luck to both of you!

  232. Hello,
    I have a 2003 VW Jetta and have had nothing but problems with it since I got in in August 2007. Latest problem is the check engine light came on a few weeks ago. The car had been sitting all weekend and Monday morning when I went to drive it in the cold damp weather, the check engine light came on. The car would shake everytime I stopped and when I pressed on the gas it would feel like there was no gas getting to it. I brought it to my mechanic who said I need a tune up, and turned the light off for me. The car stopped shaking and everything seemed to go back to normal, until a few weeks later when the car sat for the weekend, and when I went to drive it Monday morning (again damp and rainy) the same problem happened and the check engine light came on. This time it wasn’t as bad and didn’t last as long. The check engine light went off on it’s on and the car went back to normal by the time I got to work. A few days later, the check engine light has come back on, but no shaking or gas problems. I’m afraid to get a tune up and spend all this money on it and it not be the problem. Does this sound like anything you’ve heard of?


    By Alex on Apr 27, 2009 | Reply
  233. I just bought a 1997 VW Jetta, when I went to get it smog checked it passed everything, but the check engine light will not come on.

    I took it to a Midas, and they were not able to find the reason why the light will not come on.

    Any ideas? :)


    By Tiffany on Apr 29, 2009 | Reply
  234. Hi,

    I have an 04 Jetta, manual, 2.0L. My EPC light is always on no matter what, and the light with the exclamation mark in the middle of a circle comes on sometimes too. However, when I start up my car, if I don’t use my foot brake at all until after I start driving, the exclamation mark like will not come on. But, if I’m on an incline and have to use my foot brake, the exclamation mark light comes on right away. Is this an easy fix? about replacing the brake switch or something?


    By Christina on May 7, 2009 | Reply
  235. Dan,

    Got a 2002 Passat GLS 1.8T and it sat all winter long with intermitent starts. Battery died, replaced it 2 days ago – started fine no CEL. Today, started it and got a flashing CEL, a very rough idle and drove it around the block and has very little power. Also exhaust smells a little odd. Do I need to put a fork in this dub or is there hope :)


    By Mike on May 8, 2009 | Reply
  236. Help! I am in VW Hell, 2 VW’s 99 New Beetle, Alternator and Cam Pos Sensor went out in one week, and a 98 Jetta that I just can’t figure out it will run fine for a while then die and not start for atleast a couple of hours the CEL is either not coming on or burnt out I dunno checked the components I knew to check and replaced what needed to be, cap, rotor, ICM however the issue is still persistant

  237. I just bought a used 2007 Passat 2.0t at a local Nissian Dealer. 30min after leaving the dealer ship the service now message and the MIL light came on. The dealership just changed the oil and filled it up with gas before I picked up the car so I figured that was why the service now light was on. Anyway I figured out how to turn the service message light off however the MIL light is still on. I tightened the gas cap and the light went off for half the day but later it came back on…what do you think the problem could be?

    By Ashley on May 10, 2009 | Reply
  238. Dan Volkens

    Hey guys, sorry for the extremely late reply.

    Alex, have both your MAF sensor and the coilpacks/ignition checked out to see if that might be causing your problem. Your mechanic should know what you’re talking about if you ask about these items.

    Tiffany, I suggest taking it to another shop to have the codes scanned in the computer, or a dealer. Auto parts shops will scan your codes for free, or the dealer will do it for free pending there isn’t a problem. In any case, those codes should tell the shop what the problem is and how to repair.

    Christina, there might be a problem with the ABS system. But in any case, something’s going on in the brake system, whether it’s the bad brake light switch (which has a recall) or related. Good luck! :)

    Mike, when a car sits for a long time, if you hadn’t put some kind of fuel stabilizer into the fuel tank, your gas will degrade. That would be the first thing to check out. Try to burn off that old gas and get a fresh tank in there and see if the problem clears up.

    Chris, sounds like you have a bad combination of problems, and most likely out of my league. :D I suggest you head over to and post up some details of your problems in the engine-specific forums.

    Hey Ashley, interesting one there. Since the dealership just did some service before giving you the car, they should be responsible to find out why the light came on. They might have done something incorrectly. Second, be sure to check that gas cap is tightly closed. If it’s loose after filling up, it can throw a MIL as well.


    I have an automatic 2007 City Jetta which I bought new from the dealer in April 2007. It has gone in several times for small repairs ie: Glovebox door breaking twice, cd player replaced, cigarette lighter replaced twice, when you close the back passenger window to the top it automatically opens again once it hits the top of the window column… these have been some of the small problems but within the last 2 months there has been a “MAJOR” clunk when my car accelerates from 1st gear to 2nd gear. The car is automatic so i know it’s not a case of “bad standard” driving. It usually occurs when accelerating from a stop sign from being on a hill, going down or up a small hill. I’ve taken my Jetta to the dealer 3 times, to 2 separate dealers to get a broader review, and the computer results for my transmission have all come back totally fine. They show me the printed results and offer no other help because they have no idea what it is. The clunk happens maybe 2 or 3 times a day, some clunks bigger than others. Some often hurt me because I jerks so far in my seat (it feels almost like someone hits my car from behind)

    Has anyone experienced this terrible “CLUNK” in their Jetta??
    Please HELP!!

    By JT on May 20, 2009 | Reply
  240. i have a 98 new beetle who’s check engine light just came on; i ran it thru one of those home indicator systems and it said that engine running lean….what can i do?

    By laura moore on May 25, 2009 | Reply
  241. I am a service manager for a vw dealer.If the codes in the vehicle read a cooling system malfunction again,a thermostat should correct the problem.this is very commen..good luck

    By shelby on May 30, 2009 | Reply
  242. I just drove home today in a 2003 Jetta,,,,I havent had it 3 hours before the CEL came on ,,made me sick to the stomache,,, it drives good and the light is steady rather than blinking,,,,would it cause any trouble if we continued to drive it 3 or 4 days to see if the light may reset,,
    I know the dealer filled up with gas before we left, although the gas cap felt pretty snug to me..
    I know the car has been sitting for a while ,,is it possible that it will reset??

    By Astros on Jun 4, 2009 | Reply
  243. Hi im amanda, im 18 andi just bought my first car, its a 2002 vw jetta 2.0 4cylinders, i got this car at 108,000 miles, day after i bought it, engine lights on, book said could be a catilytic converter and not to drive if it was flashing, it wasnt so i brought it back, they reset my code and told me i didnt shut my gas cap all of the way (w/e) but im nieve to this and said ok thanks, next day came nack on, autozone scanned it and it came back as catilytic converter so anyway they replaces my converter, now about 7,000 miles later, the lights bck on… the car smells of exuast, sometimes like pure gas, also like rotten eggs at times, auto zone had 2 codes they found, soemthing about an oxygen sensor and/ or heater coil?!?!?! could this have anything to do with the new converter? if not whats ths mean and is it pricy?? since i bought it though while im driving the floor just feels rough i can’t explain it other then that the car just feels rumbly in my feel like im driving on a dirt road when im not, but being its my first car im not sure what normal and whats not, also one more thing, when i turned off my ar and sat in it for a minut i heard loud cranking rumbling noises from underneath the car, the car was completly shut off when i heard this?> shouldnt a car rest silently? thanks so much for your tiem, i dont know anyone who knows anything about crs so i really would like to take good care of myine, car has always been maintaned well, although i kknow i need a cabin ffilter

    By amanda on Jun 6, 2009 | Reply
  244. Hi im eric and i own a jetta 99.5 2.0l stick. has cool air intake and after market exauhst. my CEL came on about 6 months ago and it gives me a code of p1128. its been driving fine until recently. it startd to backfire taking off from 2nd (not from a stopped position). it also like boggs down just b 4 backfire too.. but its been doing that even b 4 the backfiring.. do u think it cud just need the sparks replaced? also i notice that since about a year ago the temp gauge works when it wants to. id really hate to take to dealer bcuz the i simply cant afford their prices. and frankly my last experiance with them put me off dealerships for good. I appreciate any advice you can give me. thanking you in advance for your time!!

    By air x jetta on Jun 12, 2009 | Reply
  245. Dan Volkens

    Hey JT, my wife’s Jetta, which is an 05, does the same thing. And they haven’t found anything either. I’m not happy at all about that, cause you don’t want the transmission going south. I hope we can get the problem tracked down. If you do, please let me know. And I’ll post up as well.

    Hey Laura, that could indicate a problem somewhere along the ignition system. It’s not a terrible problem, but I don’t recommend running your Beetle too much before getting a repair done.

    Hey Astros, the CEL could indicate any number of problems, small or big. Since you’re not noticing any symptoms in the engine or otherwise since the light came on, you may be ok. Since it had been sitting for while, old gasoline may have caused a misfire or bad ignition, which would throw the CEL. Definitely get the codes scanned to find out.

    Amanda, it’s definitely a bad oxygen sensor on your catalytic converter, which will create the symptoms you’ve had. Those sensors usually only last about 80,000 mi. or so, so it is overdue for replacement. It shouldn’t be an expensive repair. I recommend shopping around at dealers or local mechanics to get the best price. Good luck!

    Hey air x jetta, since you have aftermarket exhaust installed, the first things to check are the catalytic converter sensors and the ignition. Your symptoms also sound like the oxygen sensor, and the code p1128 indicates the engine is running lean, which would be related.

  246. I have a 2001 Beetle with a little under 71,000 miles. My check engine light came on. I secured the gas cap, changed the air filter and the light satyed on. I went Autozone and it had code of P0411. The car is sluggish going from 2nd to 3rd.

    It suggest that it may be a faulty solenoid vavle or air pump. Any suggestions, or comments? This is my first VW and I love it. I’ve never had any major problems.

    By Tamara on Jun 15, 2009 | Reply
  247. For 4 weeks, my Jetta has been sitting because its engine light came on without explanation and the local VW dealer required it be TOWED in to get checked out. Last night, on a whim, I started to explore the potential problems causing the light to illuminate, and came across this website first. I was anxious about the many, potentially expensive problems I might be facing, but also intrigued to learn that it might occur over something as simple as the gas cap. This triggered the recollection that I’d bought gas the day before the light came on.

    Still, I was shocked to find NO GAS CAP when I checked behind the little locked gas door this a.m. I drove two blocks to the auto repair store, purchased a new gas cap, and had them clear the light with their little computer apparatus. I thank YOU for a great resource for mid-life ladies who have no clue about cars or car computers, but roam around cyber-space looking for answers to life’s surprises. Blessings.

    By Betsy on Jun 15, 2009 | Reply
  248. I did get the car scanned and had to replace the catalitic convertor,,,my question is , this car has only 59,000 miles which is very low mileage for the convetor to go bad,,
    does that make the chances high that something else may be brewing to go wrong..or could it be it was just a fluke and now I may have many happy miles ahead………

    By Astros on Jun 17, 2009 | Reply
  249. i have a 2004 gti. for the last month the car has had some problems. first the airbag light went on, then when i turn off the signal light the noise keeps on going but no light flashing odd. finally the engine light went on and i have scanned it and had problems with the coolant temp sensor had it replaced a year ago but its still occuring. now i have problems with my care making noises like im ridding a bicycle with a a baseball card on the back wheel. every time i accelerate it makes this noise. do you think that my catalitic convertor is going bad.

    By Art on Jun 17, 2009 | Reply
  250. Dan Volkens

    Hey Tamara, according to this article, there is a Volkswagen Technical Service Bulletin out for the repair. The code P0411 is “Secondary Air Injection System-Incorrect Flow Detected”, which is a vacuum line. I suggest you head over to a good dealer and have them make the repair. Good luck!

    Betsy, glad you saved yourself a good bit of money on repairs you wouldn’t need!

    Astros, 59,000 miles is low for a cat to go bad, but many factors could play into that, such as bad gas, ignition etc.

    Hey Art, sorry to hear so many problems you’re having. As far as the noise, that could be something stuck under your car or the wheel area, or possibly a problem with another part of the driveline, whether cv joints or the like. Not sure if it relates to your cat.

  251. I have 2001 Jetta VR6. I stopped for gas on the way to work on Monday morning, I was almost empty and when I took the gas cap off, I head a hissing noise, almost like vapor escaping. I filled up, went to work came home. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, and I got the emissions workshop message. It has been hot and humid where I live, could this be vapor lock?

    By Jeff on Jun 23, 2009 | Reply
  252. i have a 2005 jetta 101,000 miles the CEL just came on went to autozone and they told me P2279 P0171 P0507 am I looking at an expensive fix….

    By Becky on Jun 24, 2009 | Reply
  253. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jeff, it could just be that the gas cap wasn’t tightened quite enough, or the cap itself has gone bad. The hissing sound you heard is completely normal when very low on gas. fumes will build up inside of the gas tank, which are released when you open it.

    Becky, those codes are as follows with a link to further description:

    P2279: Leak in Air Intake System (couldn’t find more detail)
    P0171: Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
    P0507: Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

    Now what does all this mumbo jumbo mean? One of the more common problems that occur on these cars is a bad “MAF” sensor, which is noted to be a possible cause in code P0171. In any case, I don’t think this should be a really expensive repair, but it is something you’ll want to get done as soon as you can. Good luck!

  254. Hey, I have a 1999.5 Jetta. I just replaced the spark plugs with Bosch Platinum plugs, air filter, and oil. In the process the dipstick tube snapped off. After starting up the car and driving it, the car struggles and the check engine light flashes after acceleration. We checked out our work and can find nothing wrong except for a broken dipstick tube. But something that small would not cause a CEL to stay on and then flash at times would it? Thanks.

    By Jay on Jun 28, 2009 | Reply
  255. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jay,

    it’s common for the orange dipstick handle to dry out, crack and break off a lot of times. Do you mean this part, or the actual tube that the dipstick inserts into? If this is open, it could cause a problem while the engine is running.

    Did you also double check the gap on your plugs before installing? It’s typically recommended to install NGK plugs (a little pricey, unfortunately) which are the OEM plugs. many owners have reported trouble with other plug brands, which doesn’t make sense, I know. :P

    And as far as the CEl, yeah, either of these could throw that, especially if there’s a problem with the ignition.

  256. Hi
    Like many fols here I am having problems with my VW again…So the Engine Management light came on and i took it in and they switched it off saying that the head gasket was going and my car was over heating and one of the values was glowing white…they fixed that and saved the value…the light came on again about two weeks later- this time they said it was a faulty temp sensor- no charge, it came on again and they could not figure out why but they were able to switch it off and it was due to some wiring but no fault codes were brought up, it was fine for about 2 months and now it is back on again……and i am sure that I am losing power…..the light only comes on when I drive long distances i.e 300 miles or so…any ideas to the cause?? cos right this moment i am very close to selling the damn thing.

    By Sinoeh Abili on Jul 7, 2009 | Reply
  257. sorry in above comment it is meant to say “folks” not “fols”….

    By Sinoeh Abili on Jul 7, 2009 | Reply
  258. Howdy.

    I have a 2005 Jetta 4cyl automatic(nothing fancy).
    87,000 miles..bought new.

    The emissions light came on about 2 months ago right after a trip to the dealer for service. Just tightened the gas cap and the light went off.

    Now the light is back on and the gas cap trick isn’t working.

    Before the light came back on, I drove 4 hours, made a stop, and when I turned the car back on it made a squealing noise for a few minutes(belt?) The light came back on when I drove it 4 hours back. No noise, no apparent problems.

    Any thoughts before going to the dealership?


  259. I have a 2005 Jetta automatic and have experienced the same clunk you describe since I bought the car new.

    Disturbing, but the car has been great (87K miles) except for the emission light coming on. My CD Player had to be replaced early on, as well.

    One weird thing they could not repair was the alarm system going off randomly. I have to lock the door from the passenger’s side and this keeps the alarm for randomly going off in the middle of the night.

  260. Dan Volkens

    Hey Sinoeh, yeah that’s a lot of problems to have, and it gets frustrating. If you’re losing power, you could be having a problem somewhere along the ignition line, whether a cylinder is misfiring due to a bad coilpack or related, or something else. In any case, something like that will throw a CEL. Good luck with the repairs, and thankfully they have been covered so far. :D

    Hi Cara, the squealing noise is definitely related to the belt or related parts. Did you have the standard 80k maintenance done on your Jetta? The belt should have been inspected for any potential wear or other problems. The emissions light could be a bad O2 sensor in the catalytic converter. These commonly go out around 80k or so. Be sure to have your computer codes scanned as that should spell out exactly what the problem is to your mechanic.

    The car alarm going off randomly could signal a problem in the locking mechanism of the driver’s side door. The mechanics should do everything in their power to figure out what’s causing it. Do you know of a good independent VW mechanic in your area? A lot of times, they do a better job than the dealers. :P

  261. hey, i have a 2006 GLI 6-speed standard with about 30,000 miles on it. I got a CEL about a month ago, went to autozone, had them scan it and got a cylinder 4 misfire code. because the car was running as smooth as ever, and they would not clear out the code for me, i went home, removed the battery terminal, waiting a minute and plugged back in to clear the code. havent had a problem since until this morning on the way into work. no hesitation, nothing, just the light comes on and im guessing its probably the same code. any ideas?

    By Dean Winters on Jul 13, 2009 | Reply
  262. Dan Volkens

    Hey Dean, most likely you’ve come across the bad coilpack problem that is waaaay too common. You should still be under warranty, so you can take it to the dealer to have any repairs done and the codes cleared.

  263. In the past few weeks my 2004 VW Jetta with 120k miles has had the water pum replaced and the timing chain. Right before this the Airconditioning module was replaced. Now It seems to be having some electrical problems (the radio and windows would not work but after restarting the car they were fine) and the transmission every once in a while is not changing gears when it should… Could one of the repairs caused this problem. Could they have left something undone when they were putting my car back together… or is this a new issue.

    By Shana on Jul 27, 2009 | Reply
  264. Dan Volkens

    Hey Shana, unfortunately I don’t think either of those new problems would be related to the recent repairs. :( The water pump and timing chain are pretty standard repairs once you get to 80k mi. and above. But sorry to hear about the other problems. Good luck with the fixes if you decide to take it in, and shop around for the best price/service!

    By Dan Volkens on Jul 27, 2009 | Reply
  265. Do you think either of those problems are related, or do you think I have 2 new problems? :-/

    By Shana on Jul 27, 2009 | Reply
  266. Dan Volkens

    I’m not sure if any electrical problems *might* have an effect on the transmission, but if it did, it may be registered as codes into the Jetta’s computer, which the mechanics should scan before doing any work. A Fix for transmission shifting problems could range from a simple fluid change to full-on trans repair. With teh mileage on your car, if the fluid hadn’t been changed sometime along the way, you’ll definitely want to get that done first.

  267. ok thanks for your advise… I called the guys who worked on it and they said they would go back over it to make sure everything is in place. I will also get them to check the transmission fluid while I am there. thanks for your help!

    By Shana on Jul 27, 2009 | Reply
  268. Dan Volkens

    Right on, no problem. Good luck! :)

  269. How do you reset a CEL????

    By al on Jul 30, 2009 | Reply
  270. Dan Volkens

    Hey Al, to clear the code yourself, you need to purchase a VAG-COM cable appropriate to your model year and the required software. You then hook that up to your car’s computer from your laptop to scan/clear the codes.

    Otherwise, you need to have a local mechanic or dealer clear them for ya.

  271. My problem seems to be all A/T related! I have a 2000 Golf TDI with 183k on it and when it shifts from I believe 3rd to 4th gear I feel a slight jerk coming from the middle to the rear of the car, what is that? Also it seems like it’s not shifting when it should, like on hills it will just accelerate and surge around 3k, like it wants to shift but it won’t till I’m over the hill, if I baby the trans it seems to do just fine but anytime I need to go, it falls on its face and acts up, I was thinking the TPS was bad but I thought I would get a code thrown if it were that, I just change the fluid and filter and it got a little better but I really don’t know what else to do to help it improve! Any suggestions would be great, and like I said it does just fine when I baby it, but you guys know how slow diesels are when you baby them! Thanks alot for your time, Patrick

    By Patrick on Jul 31, 2009 | Reply
  272. I have a 2001 beetle1.8T. My bf has borrowed my car and now the engine warning light has come on, car seems ok maybe slightly sluggish but no real problems. Any ideas. The light came on last year but only stayed on for a day.
    Need the car for work but not sure if I should drive it without getting it checked??

    By Emma (uk) on Aug 2, 2009 | Reply
  273. Update!! – car has now started to feel like it is shuddering when you start the engine, have not attempted to drive it.

    By Emma (uk) on Aug 3, 2009 | Reply
  274. Dan Volkens

    Hey Patrick, at 183k, it sounds like you’re finally gonna start having some big trouble with your trans. :( You’ve checked the things I can think of: fluid, sensors, etc. I’d get it checked out by a good mechanic. Good luck with that man, trans problems are not fun.

    Emma, sorry for the late reply! The most typical problem that cause the symptoms you mentioned is bad coilpacks. Coilpacks are part of the ignition system, so when they don’t fire properly, you’re engine will run rough, misfire and act sluggish. If this is indeed the problem, the good thing is that this should be covered under a recall.

    The first thing to do is get the computer codes scanned to find out what the exact problem is and go from there. I would drive it as little as possible until you have it looked at.

  275. Hi Again, I am having a new problem with my 2004 Jetta. When I am in town and only going short distances there is no problem. When I have driven my car for a couple of hours straight the transmission seems to be having trouble deciding which gear it wants to go into. Mostly it doesn’t want to switch to the next gear. Do you think I am going to have to replace my transmission or do you think it could be a smaller problem. Had my fluid checked and that is ok.

    By Shana on Aug 12, 2009 | Reply
  276. i have a 2004 jetta volkswagen with less than 39,100. the engine light came on a while back and i went to get an oil change and it disappered but i dont think that was the problem. yesterday the light came back on but i dont know what the problem could be since all my fluids are fine. my car does make a noise every once in a while when i start driving but the noise will go away soon after i hit btw 20-30 miles an hr. the noise comes and goes and it happens everytime i make a stop and drive off again. i dont know how to explain the noise its like a “beeeep” noise or something like that. help please?

    By paola on Aug 14, 2009 | Reply
  277. Dan Volkens

    Hey Shana, If you did have your fluid checked, that kinda rules out the simple solution, unfortunately. The next step is to have the mechanics check sensors and the transmission itself, which could potentially get costly. My wife has similar problems with her 2005 Jetta, but no one has been able to track down what the problem is. And it comes and goes as well. Good luck!

    Hello Paola, the check engine light could signify any number of problems, so the best way to find out actually what’s going on is to have your jett’as computer codes scanned. The codes will tell the mechanic exactly what the problem is. Can you describe the sound that the car is making? And finally, that beep sound should happen when the check engine light comes on. Does it beep a few seconds after you start the car?

  278. I have an 04 Jetta 1.8T with approx. 70k miles. I just recently replaced the water pump and timing belt and right after they were replaced the car started making a weird noise. Sounds like air releasing. My husband and a guy at auto zone both think that its something with the turbo (back flow or something like that). The noise only happens if I accelerate quickly. Now the MIL light is on and the auto zone computer shows that it is running rich. Do you think the turbo needs to be replaced? Should I take it to a VW dealership to have them look at it?

    I only have a couple of payments left and don’t want to get rid of the car but I also don’t want to dump a bunch on money into it.

    By Jennifer on Aug 17, 2009 | Reply
  279. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jennifer, a sound like that could be the turbo, especially if you hear the sound upon quick acceleration, but since you just had a major repair done, I’d be wary that something else could be wrong. One very common problem on the 1.8T’s is a bad MAF sensor, and since a MIL came on, you can have the computer’s codes scanned to find out exactly what is going on and move from there. good luck!

  280. Hey Dan,

    I got my 2002 gti 337 washed the other day. They also tinted the windows. When i got in my car my CEL was on. Took it to a local shop and they said just the engine temp looked a little warm. The guy shut off the light. Now two days later the Light came back on during normal driving. Any ideas?

    By VWLover on Aug 20, 2009 | Reply
  281. Hello there!
    My poor Jetta is having a really bad week! I have a 2004 1.8T with 59,000 miles. I had new tires put on in March at a local tire “chain”, who also supposedly changed the oil and “fixed” the alignment, or so I thought. Right after hetting the car back, I noticed a metallic rattling coming from the undercarriage. I took the car to the dealership Monday (primarily for the 60,000 mile service), and was informed that the suspension was off, there was something wrong with the sway bar (I can;t remember the exact problem), the bracket that holds in the exhaust system was broken and needed to be welded back together, AND the tire place had tried to put a random plug into the oil pan (what happened to mine I do not know), and in the process had damaged the oil pan to the point where it needed to be completely replaced. All said, a LOT of expensive work needed to be done. After everything was fixed I took the car home. No problems on Tuesday, but wednesday on my way to work I heard what sonded like something drop off the bottom of the car, a warning light popped on and the power steering and a/c went out. I pulled over and looked under the hood, and the serpentine belt was shredded. Had the car towed to the dealership and had the belt replaced. Friday (this morning) I started up the car and the check engine light came on! Now, I guess this could all be a coincidence (I have had NO problems with the car before), but I’m starting to worry that there is some serious underlying problem here! Any thoughts?? I think I am on track for some sort of record for number of service visits in a week!

    By Erin on Aug 21, 2009 | Reply
  282. This happened to my 2001 Beetle and it was the O2 sensors and had to have both of them replaced. It cost about $425.00 to replace both of them and that took care of the problem.

    By Mandy on Aug 21, 2009 | Reply
  283. Dan Volkens

    Hey VWLover, since the light is coming back after being shut off, there has to be a code being thrown in the computer. Be sure to have your mechanic read those codes to find out what the problem actually is. It could be a bad temp sensor or something related.

    Hello Erin, wow, that’s a bad run of repairs to have to go through. :) Whenever the check engine light comes on, there should be a code thrown in the computer, just as I was saying to VWLover above. The first order of business, if there isn’t anything obviously wrong with the car, is to find out what those codes are saying and go from there. Good luck, and I hope this is the last of the repairs you need to make for a long time!

  284. Hello,
    My 2001 Passat’s (GLS 2.8 V6/94k miles) CEL stays on and it throws an ‘Emissions Workshop’ beep, a couple of minutes after I start driving. Took it to Autozone, where they gave me the following codes – P1177 P0421 P0431. Took it to the dealer who said, Catalytic Converters on both sides need to be replaced – Cost $2500. My question is two fold, can both CCs go bad at the same time and would it really cost that much to replace ? Any ideas ?


    By Ashok on Aug 29, 2009 | Reply
  285. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ashok, all three of those codes are related to the catalytic converters, and at your mileage it’s about time to replace them. However, check this thread out as well. It’s mentions an ECM reprogram for a very specific engine code that could reveal or take care of something there. Here’s a list of many Volkswagen trouble codes as well.

    As always, try to get another quote and/or second opinion to try to save some cash. Good luck!

  286. Hey I’m having a few problems with a 94 jetta cl 2.0. The cooling fans do not turn on…I have replaced the thermoswitch on the rad but still nothing, I have jumpered the switch plug and the fans turn on for 1st and 2nd stages. Would it be the fan control unit or is their a small relay switch on the fuse box? Also when driving at times the oil lights blinks and beeps…I’ve heard that i put thin of oil in the car and it requires 15-40 or 20-50…does this sound right? Please help if you can my gf is beside herself about her baby(jetta). Thanks

    By Steve on Aug 29, 2009 | Reply
  287. I also wanted to add that someone was looking for an OBD connector on the jetta about the same year …on this one it’s on the dash center to the left side right beside the rear defrost button, under a snap in cover plate….hopefully this will help someone…

    By Steve on Aug 29, 2009 | Reply
  288. My girlfriend has a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. The car starts up fine and idles fine. After being on for about two min. the car shuts off. This porblem occurs whether she is driving or not. We try to start up the car right after and the car wont start. If we wait a little while the car will start up fine. The check engine light is not on or anything.

    By Danny on Aug 30, 2009 | Reply

    By JARVIS WILLIAMS on Aug 31, 2009 | Reply
  290. Dan Volkens

    Hey Steve, hmmm odd problem. I would think either fuse, relay or fan control unit of some type as well. As far as oil, you should be using 5w30 in your 2.0. Be sure to check the oil level on a regular basis as these 2.0′s burn oil somehow. And thanks for the tip on the OBD connector!

    Hey Danny, Interesting. Could be a number of problems, whether fuel related or sensor. Even though the check engine light isn’t on, I’d have the codes scanned anyway as there still may be something registered in the system.

    Whassup Jarvis, you’ve definitely got something going on with the transmission. That’s not something to mess with, so I’d advice getting it in as soon as you can. Sorry i can’t give any details into what’s going on. Not sure there.

  291. Thanks Dan, would you know perhaps what relay on the fuse box is for the cooling fans… i can’t find anything that labels each relay above the fuses…and thanks again this is a great place to come keep up the good work!

    By steve on Sep 2, 2009 | Reply
  292. Dan Volkens

    Hey Steve, here are a couple links I turned up over at (excellent forums for VW stuff :D )

    - Fuse Diagram
    - Fan relay/control info

    Hope that helps!

  293. Hi Dan,

    I have a similar problem as Mike (10 May), but I’m not sure if it’s gas related. I haven’t used my 2002 Passat, 1.8T for a couple of days and today as I was accelerating, something went awry. The CEL flashes, the car doesn’t accelerate so I can’t make it out of 2nd gear, and there’s a strange smell coming from the exhaust.

    I’ve read some articles online about a coil/spark plugs going bad, but I just recently had my 80K service done and they just replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor in my car.

    I checked, but wasn’t sure what to look for, so I didn’t find any of the info that I needed.

    I might just have the car towed to the dealer, but since it’s Labor Day tomorrow, I’m not sure how that will work out.


    By Annalynn on Sep 7, 2009 | Reply
  294. Dan Volkens

    Hey Annalynn, sounds like you may have a bad MAF, or bad o2 sensors in the catalytic converter. You can have the codes scanned at the dealer before going ahead with repairs to at least find out exatly what’s going on. Good luck!

  295. i just bought an 07 jetta less than two months ago. while driving home, my check engine light came on and now the car drives funny. it is more of a bumpy ride like the engine shakes. Hopefully the warranty covers whatever problem it is having. what may that be? thanks

    By john on Sep 11, 2009 | Reply
  296. Dan Volkens

    Hey John, could be a number of things, but it would definitely be covered by warranty. Just drop it off at your dealer and they’ll scan the codes first to find out what’s going on and make the necessary repairs – all free of charge! (we hope) :D

  297. I have a 1998 vw beetle with 100.500 miles on it,,I just replaced the waterpump and timing belt,I started the car for a quick second with map sensor and other hoses unplugged to make sure I had timing correct before I put everything back together,,Now after job complete and all put back together the check engine stays on,,when to 3 different auto store and there scanner does work on this car,,How can I reset light,,,,Eric

    By Eric on Sep 20, 2009 | Reply
  298. The exhaust/emission light on my VW Jetta 2005 came on and stayed on. However, there is no comment on the dash board as indicated in my manual. According to the manual, it should say “emission workshop” on the little rectangle on the dash board. Any ideas/suggestions?
    Thanks from somebody who is absolutely mechanically challenged but takes extremely good care of her car!

  299. I am in the market for a new a beetle, i have been wanting one since i can remember…the trouble is that so many people are telling me a number of things that go wrong w/ VWs. Mainly, turbo engine problems, timing belts…CEL and other issues. I am buying a used one as i am in college right now and that is all i can afford, but it would be great to hear the truth from someone who really knows, any info would be appreciated : )

    By Kailey on Sep 20, 2009 | Reply
  300. I have a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg 5 speed. My epc light keeps coming on along with the triangle with a circle around it and I am throwing a code for the TPS sensor. Could the tps sensor be the only problem? Also I talked to several dealers on the TPS and one told me it is a stand alone part by the gas pedal and 3 others told me it was in the throttle body? Any help would be appreciated.

  301. Hi Dan,
    My daughter has a 2001 Bettle. Her CEL is on and has been for a year now. My shop i have used for the last 25+ years is telling me the Throttle Valve Control is bad. $700.00 for repair. Have you heard of that one?

    By John White on Sep 24, 2009 | Reply
  302. Dan Volkens

    Hey Eric, good job on the replacement. Your light could be related to the repair, or something new, but I think it’s safer to assume it is related. Strange that none of your local shops can scan the codes. Usually they have compatible equipment. Your only other choices to get the codes are to take it to the dealer *cringe* or purchase the VAG-COM cables and related software and scan it yourself. The dealer will scan your codes for free PENDING there isn’t a repair needed. Go figure. :) Good luck with it!

    Hedwig, my bet is that your o2 sensors may have gone bad on the catalytic converter. Be sure to have the codes scanned before going ahead with any repairs.

    Hey Kailey, anybody can make a pretty extensive list of problems for any of the car manufacturers, so bottom line is that they all have problems one way or another. :) The key is to look for a car that has been taken care of very well with any of those potential things taken care of. And that’s not to say that any of these things are guaranteed to happen. Just have a critical eye when shopping, and really dig the seller for maintenance details and other potential problems. Good luck!

    Rob, that’s a tough one man. Has it been rainign a lot where you live? According to the guys in this thread, it could take a quick cleaning of the sensors on the gas pedal.

    Hey John, whoooosh, that’s a hefty repair bill. I did a quick bit of research, and it looks like that may be around what the cost should be. Sorry man.

  303. Hi,

    I have a 2005 New Beetle, last week I had a flat and had the new tire mounted yesterday. I drove home and drove to work fine, but today when I was driving home from work, the CEL came on. I drove on the autobahn fine and was able to stop at 2 more places before I finally got home. Can mounting a new tire affect CEL?

    Thanks in advance.

    By Shae on Sep 29, 2009 | Reply
  304. Dan Volkens

    Hey Shae, one thing I can think of that might have occurred is a problem with the antilock brake system or related. During the wheel change, they might have knocked something loose, like a sensor, or didn’t reconnect something.

  305. Dan, thank you that was a super fast reply! Well, I left to pick up my daughter from her swim practice and the CEL light is now off! This is weird, my buggy is playing tricks on me.

    By Shae on Sep 29, 2009 | Reply
  306. Dan Volkens

    Hahah no problem. :) Hmmm, usually once the CEL goes off, it remains on since the code is registered in the car’s computer. But there are certain conditions where it doesn’t. Definitely sounds like it could be something loose if it goes on and off.

    There’s also the possibility that the problem is not related to the tire change at all, rather just bad timing. You’re best bet is to have the computer codes scanned at a local auto parts shop or dealer to find out what is going on. Good luck!

  307. Dan, I have a 2004 Passat TDI with 105,000 miles. I experienced the MIL and the message “emission workshop”.

    The dealer replaced the MAF but the problem returned within 10 miles.

    The second repair found a crack in the intercooler, also replaced and again indications returned.

    Suggestions please.

    By Ed Sander on Sep 30, 2009 | Reply
  308. I have a 2008 VW jetta and there a light that came up for about a couple weeks now its an exclamation mark with like little weird circle around it… Now I know its not the tire pressure one. I also have a 1 year warranty on my car how can I take advantage of that???? (This is my first car) thanks!

    By suzy on Oct 5, 2009 | Reply
  309. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ed, is the same MIL and emission workshop message coming up? I would also check the o2 sensors and catalytic converter. It would be just about time to replace those as well at 100,000 mi.

    Hey Suzy, does the circle have a curved line on each side of the circle, or does the circle end with an arrow at the bottom? There are two indicator lights that are very similar, but both related to the brake system.

    The light with the curved lines on each side of the circle indicates a problem with the brakes or the parking brake (the parking brake is more common, because people sometimes forget that it’s engaged when taking off), and you should stop and not drive until you can get it fixed.

    The other light indicates a problem with the ASR or ESP system, which is traction control. Since you still have warranty left, you can have the problem repaired free of charge, so get it in when you can! :)

  310. Dan, my friend is having problems with her 2001 vw jetta 4c 1.8 turbo. I have a code reader and it came up with error codes p0172/p0420 and p0118. Now i need to know what they are and the possible solutions to getting them fixed. I work on my own vehicle to save money and if I can help her out with this problem it would be great. Thanks for any help you can give …………….Bobby

    By Bobby on Oct 18, 2009 | Reply
  311. Hello. I read many posts and haven’t seen my problem listed.

    I have just purchased a 1999 Beetle…with 102k on it (just broken in i figured) Car fax showed regular dealer maintenance and no major problems.

    When starting it it makes a short, loud buzz/squeak sound…that to me is the sound a car makes when you try and start it while its already running. The dealer said that this is normal in most VW’s that have been sitting on the lot for a while, and it will go away after regular driving is resumed. I got my car friday, drove it all day saturday, sunday, and today. The noise hasn’t gotten better or stopped.

    A second problem is my CEL came on on the way home from picking up my car, and the dealer was closed for the weekend by then. I went to an oil change/inspection shop and they told me that the code reads “gas cap”…Is the gas cap the only thing that could cause this code(I buy a new gas cap and I’m good) or could something more serious cause this(I have to fight the dealer about replacing all kinds of sensors, ect…because he sold me a car that had problems that he will either “fix” and jerk me around until my 30 day warrenty is up…or claim are not his responsibility because its a used car))

    By christian on Oct 19, 2009 | Reply
  312. Hello. My 2002 Jetta failed inspection because of the check engine codes. The codes were for the cat and preconverter O2 sensor. My friend, a part time mechanic, replaced the converter, both O2 sensers, and the air filter. When I started the car the check engine light was still on. He explained that I need to drive the car for awhile for the computer to recheck and readjust all the parameters before it shuts off the CEL. He said it could take a week of driving. Is this right? I just want to get the car inspected but I need the CEL to turn off. Do I wait till I’ve driven awhile or do you have a better suggestion.

    By James on Oct 22, 2009 | Reply
  313. Hi, I have a 03 GTI, CEL came on P0420 had the MAF replaced but did this about a month after the CEL came on. Yes long delay to fix. After replaced the CEL went off and the car ran great for less then a day and thats when under acceleration the car would pick speed quick and then stumble, as if i let my foot of the gas. During normal acceleration it does the same thing, consistent through all gears. No hard acceleration allowed or the car acts like it has the engine of a lawn mower. Anyways the CEL came on again P3081 Air/Fuel Auxiliary meter reading. When i start the car it just stumbles and sputter, giving gas does nothing it acts like I am not even pressing the pedal. I turn off the car and turn back on and start up perfectly but there are times when i go in gear to move it starts to stumble/sputter/spit whatever you wanna call it but only a couple of seconds and then runs fine, well fine as in not sputtering but the stumbling under normal and hard acceleration continues to occur. One thing is that it will stumble under acceleration but if you continue to hold down the gas pedal out of no where it fixes it self and halls @ss until i switch gears and back to the same stumbling under acceleration. I only have a intake on. Oh and one other thing, the car wouldn’t even start the other day until i disconnected my batter for 10 seconds, reconnected and it kind of reset the ECU I assume and turned on to a massive sputter which giving gas fixed it and ran fine but this has been going on for 2 months. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    By Jeremy on Oct 24, 2009 | Reply
  314. Dan Volkens

    Hey Bobby, here’s what I’m finding for those codes:

    Potential Causes of p0172:
    - Bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor, which is very common
    - There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem, so possibly a bad fuel regulator or injector

    Potential Causes of p0420:
    - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
    - Signifies bad o2 sensor on the catalytic converter.

    Potential Causes of p0118:
    - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
    - Could be a bad coolant temp sensor, which there is a recall out on, so you can have this repaired for free at a dealer if it hasn’t already been done.

    Good luck!

  315. Dan Volkens

    Hey Christian, is the sound like a very high pitched whine when you accelerate from a stop? It sounds like the serpentine belt needs to be replaced. As far as teh gas cap, it could have just not been tightened enough, or it could be losing its seal, given that you’re over 100k miles. You can tighten it down and see if the CEL goes away after a while, or have the codes cleared out and see if it returns.

  316. Dan Volkens

    Hey James, yeah, since the codes were registered into the computer, the light will remain on, but should go out after a while once it recognizes the repair and that everything is back in order. You could also get the codes cleared at a shop if you need to have your inspection done soon.

    Have you also checked to be sure a new code isn’t being thrown since the repair?

  317. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jeremy, sounds like a mix of problems there, and a lt of potential causes. Have you had the codes scanned once again? It’s always easiest to start there in these kinds of situations since we don’t know exactly what’s going on. Those codes will give the mechanic an idea of what’s happening. I think it could be anything from coilpack problems (part of the ignition), something still up with the MAF sensor, or various other things.

    I suggest getting the computer scanned again and go from there. Good luck man!

  318. I wound up taking it to a different dealer and payed them to look at it. The engine light has the codes that say gross evap leak, o2 sensor problem, and history. They said it looks like the dealer reset the light many times to pass the inspection and fool me about a problem before purchase. The also said that there are many safety problems: all four rotors are bad and shouldn’t pass inspection, the power steering is leaking very badly, the headlights and taillights aren’t attached properly (one fell out and was hanging by a wire while I was driving)…all of these things shouldn’t allow the vehicle to pass the inspection…but the dealer who sold it to me passed it. There are also other serious problems with the transmission seal leaking badly, and the head gasket leaking badly (the coolant was pink when I checked it on the test drive, and the oil was golden….4 days later the coolant is brownish orange, and the oil looks frothy and milky…and it also smells like gas, which I think could be a piston ring problem.) All of these things were covered and concealed when I looked at the car prior to buying….the second dealer even said it looks like they cleaned all the leaks very well and recently changed small things to make it look nice. On top of all of this, they say because of the lights and all the leaks, and some other indicators, they think the car was in a wreck. The dealer told me that it was never in an accident, and they gave me a carfax to show me it. Now looking back at the carfax, it looks like it may have been altered(I am currently in contact with carfax to check this)…all in all I think I was had…..I got a bum beetle…

    By christian on Oct 25, 2009 | Reply
  319. Thanks for the answer!
    No I haven’t checked to see if there are new codes. I will look into this.

    By James on Oct 25, 2009 | Reply
  320. Could replacing the fuel filter cause the CEL to go on? Could having new tires cause the CEL to go on? If the CEL is on due to a loose gas cap, how many days should it take to go off?

    Great blog, I read through most of them and found some similar posts, but not exactly what I was looking for.

    The bug is running great, just the CEL came on and I was thinking it possibly was the gas cap issue and was wondering about how many days or starts will clear it or if I had to take it in to clear it?


    By Tim on Oct 26, 2009 | Reply
  321. Dan Volkens

    Ugh, Christian, sounds like you’ve got a serious lemon man, sorry. :( I would try to get it returned to that dealer if you’re still in a timeframe to do that.

  322. Dan Volkens

    Hey Tim, it may cause a CEL if something wasn’t replaced right or something went wrong etc. etc. Not sure there. The gas cap wil also throw one, and I believe the light will go out after a while if that’s thde only code that throwing the CEL. Your best bet is to have them scanned so you know exactly what’s happening.

  323. I have a VM Jetta 2001 VR6, the check engine light is on. But when I try to read code via Codekey, no code is found.

    I the past (2 times) Dealership sold me several costly service items (Engine flush, change of spark plugs, cabling etc) to only to later discovery myself that it was a result of faulty fuel cap.
    This has me growing skeptical of anyone who says that they need to run full diagnostic on my car, as if car is as complex as discovery space shuttle.
    The car is running fine otherwise. Nothing noticeable in the driving experience, but the light does keep me worried.

    By Brajesh Kumar on Nov 2, 2009 | Reply
  324. Dan Volkens

    Hahah yeah Brajesh. You’d be surprised how many things are being tracked in the computer. I’m suprised they didn’t find anything. IF the light is on though, it could be something very small that desn’t affect the car or something serious. If you do want to find out what it is, I recommend going somewhere else to get it scanned, or a dealer that you trust… if there is a dealer to trust. :P

  325. Thanks Dan, finding a dealer that is trust worthy has been more difficult then I thought and I have been looking for one. If someone knows one near Livermore, CA I would love to go there.

    The check engine light went off again on it’s own for a day and then come back on.

    If someone had experience like this i would love to know what it was.

    By Brajesh Kumar on Nov 11, 2009 | Reply
  326. hi my name is stefan an i have a 2003 vw jetta 1.8t…i bought the car about a month ago….i live in fairbanks alaska were there is no vw dealers..i have to drive 400 miles to even get my car looked at…..3 days after i bought it the check engine light came on an the traction controle came on….some times the traction controle goes on an off….but most of the time stays on….i hurd after 70,000 miles u need to get a timing belt kit…is that tru….an for some reason i am only firing on 3 cylinders…..i was able to drive around for alil like that until my clutch started acting up….now i cant even get it to shift without forcing it into gear…..i changed the plugs thinking it would stop the shaking of the car when out of gear….but i dunno wat to do…..just spent 11,000 on this car an i wanna blow it up…i need some answers…..thanks……ride v dub AK

    By stefan gerlinger on Nov 11, 2009 | Reply
  327. Hi! I have a 2000 VW New Beetle 2.0 gasoline engine with 230,000 miles. I know high miles but I have done regular maintenance! I have had the same mechanic for the past 200,000 miles. My CEL came on about a year ago and it had a “tick”, not bad though. It was running OK just ticking. He thought I might need a serpentine belt and a “mass air flow something”. He removed the mass air flow part and said it did not work, and put the old one back on. He called me and said it needed to be placed on a computer it had a bad skip. He only has a hand held computer since he works in his own shop on the side. I told him I could not afford it right now, I would pick it up. Picked it up and it will not run! I had to ride the clutch and shift gears to get it to just move a few feet. Does good going down hill but no uphills!! Parked now and I am in fear it have to be towed. I am not near a dealer either. Over an hour away. Called him and asked what exactly what he did and he said something he thought it needed a throttle box and the VW place will have to set some codes or something. I have been unemployed for the past 7 months and I really need my car and it to move for just a few more months. I just started a new job and not able to afford a car payment. It is like it is starving for fuel and it is not getting it. When you push the gas to rev it, it pops and carries on under the hood and wont go…tries to stall itself out. Going down the road it is bucking trying to get fuel. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
    Thanks for being here! God bless!

    By Bettina on Nov 11, 2009 | Reply
  328. Dan Volkens

    Hey Stefan, wow, sounds like you have a whole mix of problems there. It is recommended to do the timing belt, water pump and related parts around 80k or so to be safe, but not required. Firing on only three cylinders could be related to a coilpack problem where the ignition isn’t firing. Driving it like that for extended periods isn’t too good for your ride. :) Do you have any mechanics locally that can do the work for you?

  329. Dan Volkens

    Congrats on having such a high mileage Beetle, Bettina. Sounds like you have some kind of fuel problem, since the car doesn’t want to accelerate. Frankly, since this only occured after your mechanic was trying some things, I’d have him figure it out for you and not take it back until it’s working again. I know, you should be able to trust them since you’ve been with them so long, but you never know. :) Good luck!

  330. I have a 2001 jetta… and it did not come with an owner’s manual when i bought it from a dealer. Recently the ABS light and another light came on at the same time. The second light is an exclamation point surrounded with a triangle and a circle. What does that light mean? Secondly…do you know why they would both come on at the same time? I just had my breaks checked and they are perfectly fine so I don’t know why the ABS light would be on.

    By Emily on Nov 19, 2009 | Reply
  331. Dan Volkens

    Hey Emily, the light with the exclamation point is for your parking brake. You may have had a sensor fail, or another related problem around those parts.

  332. Ohhhh! Thanks Dan! Is that something I should go have looked at right away?

    By Emily on Nov 19, 2009 | Reply
  333. Dan Volkens

    I’d test to see if the parking brake is still functioning properly. You could just set the brake while the car is in neutral and see if you can move the car with the help of some friends maybe. Of course, do this safely like in a driveway or paring lot or something. :D

    But really, it wouldn’t be something I’d let linger for a while because it’s brake related. You never know!

  334. Just wanted to give you a follow up. I brought my car to the dealer to have them take a look under warranty, and they said it was valves covered with carbon sticking open. they replaced practically everything in my engine for free over a 9 day period and gave me a free rental in the meantime. now my car is running smoother than ever and has more power too! glad i took it in while its still under warranty. would have cost a fortune if i waited.

    By Dean Winters on Nov 19, 2009 | Reply
  335. Hi, my daughter has a 2002 VW beetle 2.0L GLS automatic. She put some gas in it and didn’t click the fuel cap down – end result was she got a CEL.
    No problem I thought – just get out my scanner and clear it.
    Here’s the thing though – no stored codes showed, so I hit clear and the CEL went out as expected.

    Problem is it came right back on when I restarted the engine again with no stored codes.

    She’s been running it for about a week with the CEL on – so I cleared it again, but instantly came back on with an engine re-start.

    Any suggestions ? I’m thinking a trip down to autozone to use their reader in case mine is missing something.

    Other than the CEL the bug seems to be running fine – it has 54,000 miles on the clock.

    By tim forrester on Nov 24, 2009 | Reply
  336. Luckily I had a OBD II cable from my pocket logger which I was able to hook up to my laptop and run VAGCOM 3.11.

    Found that I have a P1650 – 35 code which when cleared turns of the MIL.

    This code tells me its missing a message from the instrument cluster.

    Not too sure where to go from here – even though I’m an experienced electronics engineer :-) Sounds like a loose connection maybe ?

    Also under readiness I found a bunch of failed / incomplete messages for the following:
    O2 heating
    O2 sensor
    Secondary Air injection
    Evap emissions

    Readiness 0110 1101

    Engine seemed plenty warmed up and none of the above seems to be related to the MIL being lit.

    Any suggestions anyone ?

    By tim forrester on Nov 25, 2009 | Reply
  337. Dan Volkens

    Dean, thanks for the followup, and excellent that everything seems to be repaired. Yeah, I wouldn’t have wanted that repair bill. Thanks warranty! :D

  338. Dan Volkens

    Tim, sorry for the late reply there man. This one’s out of my league as well. And the car is just out of warranty, unless you have an extended. That’s typical, right? :D Those other codes are indicating that the o2 sensors may be going bad soon or already.

  339. No problems with my 2003 vw jetta but in June my check engine light comes on. I bring it to my mechanic and I was told I need spark plugs and ignition. ok, so I get charged 250.00. Light turns off. On my way home car starts hesitating and loses power and check engine light comes on so I bring it back thinking it’s cat convertor. I’m told no, it’s a coil. $350 later now I’m pissed… check engine light stays on all the time but car runs ok. Now my inspection expires so I bring to same mechanic. I’m told my car won’t pass because I need a cat convertor (gasket, clamp, o2 sensor, temp sensor, too) Now $1350 and car gets inspected…driving it home the freaking CEL comes on AGAIN! so I call and they say the 2nd o2 sensor may be shot. HELP ME!!!

    By Theresa on Nov 30, 2009 | Reply

    By stefan gerlinger on Dec 4, 2009 | Reply

    By stefan gerlinger on Dec 4, 2009 | Reply
  342. Dan Volkens

    Ouch Theresa! There can be problems, but in your case, sounds like the mechanic is milking you for everything he can. I’d suggest getting a second opinion on whatever they say is wrong at another mechanic if possible.

    Hey Stefan, I don’t *think* the misfiring is related to the timing belt, unless something is way off. Have you checked all related parts to the ignition?

  343. Thanks so much for taking time to respond! Update on my last post see below…excuse my mechanic terminology! I was told by another mechanic it was the mass air flow sensor and would cost me $300 to $400 so I struggled to get it home and parked for a few days and I have a friend that her dad was able to put a mass air flow sensor on it which helped greatly. $90! But when her dad took the car apart, the “air cleaner” or whatever you call that was not on there well so it was allowing air to seep in, bolts were missing etc. Then the skip, looks like when my plugs were placed in there they had never been “gapped” so nowit runs like a top but when it would not run and trying to get it home I have really worn my clutch and brakes. I am heartbroken over my mechanic and not sure what to do. I would love to find a VW mechanic in my area that is honest and not trying to knock me over the head. Next time, it will be towed. It still struggles when it is cold and sounds like the starter is getting ready to go. I was told by her dad that I need a new car but I love my little bug and heartbroken. I have been researching the 2009 bugs and being told the tiptronic transmissions are failing at 50,000 miles so I am so unsure what I will do now. I am working an hour from home so I rack up the miles. Any suggestions on the new model bugs? wondering if anyone knows if the manual transmissions are having problems like the tiptronic transmissions? God bless!

    “Congrats on having such a high mileage Beetle, Bettina. Sounds like you have some kind of fuel problem, since the car doesn’t want to accelerate. Frankly, since this only occured after your mechanic was trying some things, I’d have him figure it out for you and not take it back until it’s working again. I know, you should be able to trust them since you’ve been with them so long, but you never know. :) Good luck!”
    **”Hi! I have a 2000 VW New Beetle 2.0 gasoline engine with 230,000 miles. I know high miles but I have done regular maintenance! I have had the same mechanic for the past 200,000 miles. My CEL came on about a year ago and it had a “tick”, not bad though. It was running OK just ticking. He thought I might need a serpentine belt and a “mass air flow something”. He removed the mass air flow part and said it did not work, and put the old one back on. He called me and said it needed to be placed on a computer it had a bad skip. He only has a hand held computer since he works in his own shop on the side. I told him I could not afford it right now, I would pick it up. Picked it up and it will not run! I had to ride the clutch and shift gears to get it to just move a few feet. Does good going down hill but no uphills!! Parked now and I am in fear it have to be towed. I am not near a dealer either. Over an hour away. Called him and asked what exactly what he did and he said something he thought it needed a throttle box and the VW place will have to set some codes or something. I have been unemployed for the past 7 months and I really need my car and it to move for just a few more months. I just started a new job and not able to afford a car payment. It is like it is starving for fuel and it is not getting it. When you push the gas to rev it, it pops and carries on under the hood and wont go…tries to stall itself out. Going down the road it is bucking trying to get fuel. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
    Thanks for being here! God bless!”

    By Bettina on Dec 6, 2009 | Reply
  344. Hey there, I drive a 03 Jetta, for some reason my engine light went on couple of days ago. Not only that but it blinks too, plus while I’m in drive it shacks a little.. I’m going to get it check out but I just wanted a second opinion.


    By Cat Pham on Dec 16, 2009 | Reply
  345. Dan Volkens

    Hey Cat, if your light is blinking/flashing, and you feel a problem with the engine, don’t drive it if possible! It could be indicating a number of different problems, but the most common is a bad “coilpack”, which is part of the ignition system. So one of the engine’s cylinders is probably misfiring.

  346. Sir, I just bought a 01 New Beetle 1.8 Turbo for my daughter last week. 3 days after we got home with it the CEL came on. I’ve been reading your blog and others to find out what the cause may be. One question I have is will using regular unleaded gas cause this? The manual and gas cap both say to use premium unleaded. I have put 2 tanks of regular unleaded in the car since buying it. Thanks,

    By Jeff on Jan 3, 2010 | Reply
  347. Dan Volkens

    Hey Jeff, congrats on the purchase. :) You are correct, the CEL is most likely related to using the regular unleaded. This will cause the engine to not run at proper efficiency, could cause premature detonation in the cylinders etc., so the computer is throwing out a warning.

    You can run down the current tank of gas and refill with premium, then see if the light goes out by itself, or have the codes scanned at a local shop, auto parts store or dealer so you know for sure what the code is.

  348. As I accelerated to merge traffic on the highway, my car shuddered… but accelerated. A few seconds later, I saw that the MIL light came on, and began flashing. This has never happened before, but I know that if this happens, that I am supposed to get off the road to a safe spot.

    Realizing that I was less than a mile from my exit/home (and it was after midnight), i continued on going. The light flashed for MAYBE 15 seconds stopped (turned OFF) and I was in my driveway about 4 mins. later. In my driveway, I turned the car off… and back on again to see if the light would start flashing/come on. but nothing?

    I think i’ll bring the car to the dealership on monday morning regardless of if it comes on again. But, I wanted to ask you guys if I should start panic-ing about a HUGE problem (ie. huge bill). And (if you get this in time) if you were in my situation, would you feel comfortable with going to work in the morning? (I work 7 miles away from home…. 5.5 are highway miles)


    By Kim on Jan 10, 2010 | Reply
  349. sorry, additional info 2003 Wolfsburg, 1.8T manual transmission.

    I had just put a few $$ of mid-grade gas in the tank (which is what the dealer told me to do when I bought the car in 2004… i’ve always used mid or high grade)

    By Kim on Jan 10, 2010 | Reply
  350. problem solved… due to faulty ignition coils. Fortunately, mine were fixed for free due to a recent recall.

    car is back.. and better than ever!!!


    By Kim on Jan 11, 2010 | Reply
  351. I have a 2003 vw jetta it has 91,000 miles my check engine light has been on and I recently brought it to get an oil change at prime vw and they tested it for free they had said that two codes came up recomend updating coolant temp sensor, if cooling system fault returns ill need a thermostat also had fault cat-converter low efficiency if code returns after cooling system repairs i will need a new cat converter!! Also they said because of mileage i need a timing belt so i never got any of that fixed yet,,couple months down the road my light is blinking my car is idiling and misfiring it doesnt want to go without shaking and flashing the light im still driving it because my only transportation and not alot of $$!! I want to make an appt but im not sure what really is wrong??

    By Ashley on Jan 14, 2010 | Reply
  352. hello,

    My 2002 VW Jetta VR6 MIL light came on (does not blink). I looked in the manual and it states it the MIL is related to emisions/engine issues. It looks yellow in color. Does the color have any menaing? Some people have described different colors and i was wondering if it does make a difference. Also, is it only engine/emissions related? I think i have read that other things (lights, etc…) may cause it to turn on.

    Thank you.

    By joel on Jan 14, 2010 | Reply
  353. Dan Volkens

    Hey Kim, yeah, if your check engine light comes on and is flashing, shut off the engine as soon as possible. I’m willing to bet it could be the mid-grade gas you put in, which will cause the engine not to run at efficiency, knock, etc. Might be what happened, and if it is the case, you should be ok to get to work again, but I recommend not driving it if possible until you at least get the codes scanned to see what’s actually wrong. You might also have a bad coilpack or other ignition-related part that may be causing the engine to miss.

    Hah!! Here I am, writing away to you Kim without reading that last comment that you got it fixed! :D Yeah, that’s a very common problem and should always be covered. Glad it worked out!

  354. Dan Volkens

    Hey Ashley, a few things. :) The coolant temp sensor should be covered under a recall if it’s the older “black top” sensor. The new one is a “green top.”

    The catalytic converter code could just mean that your o2 sensors are out, which is highly likely given your mileage. Shouldn’t require a full cat replacement.

    The timing belt along with water pump and related parts should be replaced around 85k – 100k or so just for peace of mind. They tend to give out around then, and if that happens, you’ll usually need an engine replacement, or at least a lot of work. o_0

    Again, as with Kim, if your light is ever flashing and not just lit, you need to shut the car off as soon as possible. Your problem here could be the same as Kim’s – bad coilpack or related ignition part.

  355. Dan Volkens

    Hey Joel, yep, it should be an amber/yellow kinda of color and shaped like a little engine similar to this. It does denote emissions/engine problems and the best way to find out what’s wrong is to have your codes scanned either at your local auto parts shop (usually for free there), local mechanic or a dealer. The dealer will scan them for free pending no problems are found, so read that as not really free. :P Good luck!

  356. Hello! I have a 2004 NBC w/73K miles. My CEL light came on right after I hit 50K miles, tossing out the P2181 code. I had the thermostat and coolent sensor replaced. My mechanic cleared the code, but it came back a few days later. We did that several times, then decided to replace the water pump (thankfully as the plastic was starting to break). Cleared the code and it came back a few days later.

    We are both at a loss as to what to do now. I’ve been dealing with this for almost 2 years, and I’m up for a Smog Check this year. I can’t pass if I can’t get that darn light fixed.

    Any suggestions at this point are more than welcome.

    By Meg on Jan 21, 2010 | Reply
  357. Dan Volkens

    Hmmm. Good call on getting the water pump replaced. Those buggers are notorious for failing because of the plastic impeller. First, there is a newer coolant temp sensor with a green top that it should have been replaced with. This was under recall for any cars that still had the black top sensor.

    I’m finding a lot of discussion over at on this exact problem, and people are finding it just as hard to track down the culprit to this code.

    Most have recommended replacing the sensor and water pump, so you’re good to go there. I’d skim through that thread to see what kinds of options they’re finding for a fix. Let me know how it goes, and good luck! :]

  358. Hello, I have a 2001 New Beetle at about 110,000 miles and been having trouble shifting gears. Took it to the dealership for a look see and they noted that the shift lock solenoid be replaced. I later took it to another shop and they mentioned that it would be cheaper to just get the entire transmission replaced! I’m trying to find a good deal but not sure as to how much work actually needs to be done. I’m not sure what to do just looking for some expert input =) look forward to hearing from you -Crystal

  359. Was just advised that I need to replace my catalytic conv on my 2000 vw 1.8 turbo. THE DEALER WANTS 700.00 FOR IT [NOT INSTALLED} I there a way that I may avoid the purchase of a factory converter?.

    By John McLain on Feb 10, 2010 | Reply
  360. Hello,

    Would anybody care to share the cause and remedy for CEL problems for their 03 Golf 2.0? I know O2 sensor is popular but would anyone mind posting more? Thank you in advance!

    By 2003 Golf on Feb 10, 2010 | Reply
  361. Dan Volkens

    Hey Crystal, I don’t know for absolutely sure, but it doesn’t seem to make sense that replacing a solenoid would cost the same as a transmission! I would stick to the first mechanic. Have they provided a cost quote to you for the repair?

  362. Dan Volkens

    John, that repair usually comes around 80-100k miles, which I assume your’s is close to, or past? :) Hmm,you may be able to find an aftermarket converter at an online parts shop or elsewhere, but I’ve found the factory parts to be the best option typically. I would suggest you shop around for a cheaper price on it (that sounds super high), and also shop around for installation quotes if possible. Good luck!

  363. Dan Volkens

    Hey 2003 Golf, have you had your codes scanned to find out what code is throwing the CEL? Once you have that, you’ll essentially know what the problem is an move forward from there. I agree, the O2 sensors are one of the most common, but it could also be any number of other things. :)

  364. Hello,

    I own a 2006 VW GTI. I bought it used with low mileage from a dealer two years ago. I just got the 20,000 mile service a couple of months ago, and there is 25,000 miles on the car.

    The warning light came on a week ago saying: Speed exceeded 90 mph., or something like that. Also the service now light is on. I just got a letter saying that there is a voluntary ignition coil inspection/replacement. Does this message have anything to do with it?

    Thanks for your help!

    By Brenda Zozaya on Feb 24, 2010 | Reply
  365. Hi,

    I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8T. The MIL light came on (but was not blinking) about a week after I bought the car. I immediately took it back to my dealer to have it checked out. They said it was something with the sensor and managed to make the light go out. About a week (or maybe 200 miles) later, the light came on again. I’m not sure what the issue is with that. Is it simply something within the car’s computer? The car is running fine with no issues or even the most subtle odd thing happening. Has anyone else had this problem?


    By judy on Feb 25, 2010 | Reply
  366. Dan Volkens

    Hey Brenda, congrats on your purchase. The CEL (check engine light) can go off for a myriad of reasons, but one of the most common is for bad coilpacks, which is that ignition coil replacement you mentioned. The first order of business however is to have the computer codes scanned so the service dept know exactly what the problem is, then can go from there. Good luck!

  367. Dan Volkens

    Hi Judy, if the dealer did the job right, they would have scanned the computer codes to find out what’s going on. So I would recommend trying a different dealer/service station and have them scan your codes first. Then they and you will know what repair is needed. It may well be just a sensor, but that sensor could need to be replaced.

  368. hi i am scott i have 1999 volkswagon beetle the problem is when i fill it up with gas you have to hold down the gas petel down so you can get it started . the car will show no check engine light i have all ready changed the engine coolant air temperature sensor still does the same thing

    By scott schmouder on Feb 27, 2010 | Reply
  369. Hi, I own a VW 2008 Touareg It has agency record and has 30.000 Km , and today the CEL was ON after a whole day parked car, and the shift gear lights on the screen went all on at the same time I have no info on what shift I’m driving but the car works fine, and it makes the gear shifting ok. Does somebody have any Idea what can be wrong with my car?

    By Felix on Mar 3, 2010 | Reply

    By BARRY DAVIS on Mar 4, 2010 | Reply
  371. Hey, I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with 57k on it. The temp light came on 2 days after taking it into VW dealer to get a new tranny and battery. I bought more coolant cause it was a little low (about 3/4 full). But the light hasn’t gone off. I called VW and all they said was bring it in but I am not paying another $100 to run a diagnostic when I just payed that plus $650 to get it fixed a few weeks ago. The temp gage has been going back and forth from 190-240. But yesterday the check engine light came on, on top of all that. Im thinking I need to get a new coolant temp sensor?

    By Crystal on Mar 7, 2010 | Reply
  372. I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8T. When I start the car (cold) my idle goes to 1200 rpm to warm up and when it finally dips down to 800 rpm it then dips 100 rpm every 5 to 10 seconds and rises back up. And on occasion it misfires and throws the random misfire code and the codes for the affected cylinders. I just recently replaced all the coil packs, and I have no clue where to look next.

    By Chris on Mar 9, 2010 | Reply
  373. So I meant to say alternator instead of tranny. And the engine light has since turned off but the temp light is still on and blinking.

    By Crystal on Mar 12, 2010 | Reply
  374. I bought an 03 Jetta almost two months ago, it has 62k on it and it looks brand new but I’ve had several problems already. The CEL came on three weeks after I got it and had to get air flow ratio sensor replaced. Today I was driving it and the CEL came on again this time flashing. I heard it’s better to stop in that case so I drove those 5 blocks back home and left it there. But on that short drive the car was slamming and when I would stop the engine would hesitate staying on! Do you know what could be the problem? This car had the catalytic convertor replaced before it was sold to me so that shouldn’t be it. The car was running perfectly 2 days ago (the last time I drove it) and it rained all of yesterday and last night so I don’t know if that has something to do with it.

    By Martin on Mar 12, 2010 | Reply
  375. Hello,

    I just bought my daughter a 2002 Jetta 1.8T. Our first Volkswagen. The AC is not working even though fully cahrged with good pressure. I tried to jump high pressure switch to make clutch engage per chilton manual but it did not work. Also, and this is odd, when I press the recirculated air button next to AC button, my brake light comes on and their is a dinging noise like what you get if you exit the car with the headlights on. It stays on as long as the button is pressed in. If I take it off of recirculate, the light and bells go off.

    Possibly a relay or fuse problem? I read on another site that fuses in the wrong place in the fuse panel on on drivers side of dash could cause this.

    Any ideas? Ever heard of this?

    By Jeff on Mar 12, 2010 | Reply
  376. Dan Volkens

    Hey Scott, hmm, you shouldn’t need to do that under normal conditions with fuel-injected cars, unlike the old carburator engines from the 80s where doing that helped start it. By holding down the gas pedal, do you mean actually revving the engine while starting to keep it going, or just to actually initiate the start?

  377. Dan Volkens

    Hmmm, odd one there Felix. Could be a computer glitch or a problem with a sensor somewhere along the liens. Since you did get a CEL, your best option is to get the computer scanned as that will tell you and the shop exactly what the problem. Then you can move forward with a repair, if needed, from there. Good luck!

  378. Dan Volkens

    Hey Barry, you could have the faulty temp sensor that has a recall out. You can drop by a dealer to have that changed free of charge if you haven’t already. Also, here’s a link discussing the evap leak code.

  379. Dan Volkens

    Hey Crystal, you’re right. It could be the coolant temp sensor and there’s a recall out for that. Though I’m not sure if the bad sensor will cause the temperature fluctuations. If you’re getting inconsistent temps, definitely don’t wait too long to get that checked out. You don’t want an overheated engine. :) If it is just the temp sensor, they should do the repair free of charge. Let’s hope that’s what it is!

  380. Dan Volkens

    Hey Chris, I was gonna say the most common culprit for these symptoms is coilpacks. Hmm, there are other parts along the ignition that could still be causing the problem. The MAF sensor is another source of those problems. Maybe take a look at that next?

  381. Dan Volkens

    Ah, I was gonna say, man you got away with a transmission change under $1,000? lol :)

    But on a serious note, if your light is blinking you need to shut the car off right away or as soon as possible. The blinking light is like an emergency warning. What was your temperature at when that occurred, if you remember?

  382. Dan Volkens

    Hey Martin, yes, you should stop the car as soon as possible if it’s blinking. In this case, you could have a bad coilpack which will cause misfiring and general running problems in the engine. If this repair hasn’t already been done to your car, there is a recall out for that so you can get it done free of charge at the dealer.

    Hmm, moisture from the rain could have a part in it as well. Another common problem is a bad MAF sensor, so maybe look into those two things and let me know how it goes. Sorry for all the problems you’re having!

  383. Dan Volkens

    That’s a really odd problem Jeff. Sounds like some wires are crossed or something. :P Seriously though, you may be onto something there with the relay or fuse. Look into those first and follow the line from there.

  384. Thanks, I plan to work on it today. I thought it could be a vaccum leak but was unable to find one. I also had a CEL on but was able to correct that. I had the car scanned and had no codes stored. To clear the CEL, open the fuse panel on the side of the dash on the drivers side. Go to the third row of fuses from the top. In the middle there is a fuse that shows a picture of the engine for that location. I think the picture of the engine had a lighting bolt or line through it, (car not here at the moment or I would double check). With the car running, pull the fuse. The post said the engine would run rough for a moment but it would not hurt anything. When I did it, the engine actually went dead. Reinsert the fuse and restart the car. The CEL is no longer on. One note, on the post it stated it would be a 10 amp fuse, on mine it was a 15 amp. The result was the CEL went away. I hope this can help others with the CEL with no stored codes. I assume it is a way to reset the memory.

    By Jeff on Mar 14, 2010 | Reply
  385. After several hours of reading and looking, I got lucky. My AC was not working, the radiator fans were not coming on, and my brake light came on if you pressed the fresh air button beside the AC button on my 2002 Jetta. There is a 7.5 amp fuse in the interior fuse panel, position 15 I believe, that was blown. Also in the fuse panel under the hood on top of the battery there are 3 30 amp fuses. The one on the left looked fine but when I pulled it out, one side was badly burned. I replaced it with a normal 30 amp fuse and my ac began working, my fans worked, no more brake light. Drove all day yesterday and still fine. I hope this helps someone.

    Thanks for the information.

    By jeff york on Mar 16, 2010 | Reply
  386. i have 2002 beetle. been havin some problems with it. my check engine light has been on for a year, just was cut off about a week ago. car seems to be runnin fine! the light came back on yesterday and hasnt went off. could there be problem with the engine or the lamp is malfunctioning?

    By Amber on Mar 22, 2010 | Reply
  387. Hi, i have a 2004 VW GTI. On the way home tonight, it started chugging real bad, half the boost as normal, and the check engine light was flashing. When i got home and in the garage, is smelled a pungent sulphur odor. Coming from under the hood, and out of the exhaust. What do you think it might be?

    By SEAN on Apr 4, 2010 | Reply
  388. hi thanks for reply i have to hold acclerator down and revv engine after getting gas and hold it there for a few seconds then when i let off it almost stalls but it stays running but rough then you i go down the road 1 or 2 miles no more trouble until i get gas again. one thing i do now is leave the gas cap loose sometimes it will set a check engine light and sometimes it will not if you do that it doses not have problem starting. just acheck engine light now and then no all the time. one thing i did change was perge valve does the same thing.

    By scott schmouder on Apr 8, 2010 | Reply
  389. 2004 jetta 1.8T Automatic/Tiptronic.

    EPC light comes onand erratci transmission shifting hard and jerky, also accelerate and no power. What up?

    By Scott on Apr 13, 2010 | Reply
  390. Dan,

    we have a 2003 jetta 1.8t 70k miles. just replaced the clutch (at an indy mech) and within minutes of driving home it began to overheat. Seams to me that its false overheating because it’ll skip 190 to 260 very quickly, and then back just as fast.

    Code read coolant temp sensor, i replaced black with green.

    still having thesame problem. I dont know these cars so I dont know what it might be. Anything helps!


    By NIck on May 7, 2010 | Reply
  391. I have a 2003 VW GTI 1.8T. It just surpassed 78,000 miles. The CEL came on right at 77,777 miles. Does VW have it programmed to have the CEL come on at a certain mileage or was that a coincidence? Also, what’s the deal with getting all of these recall letters…moonroof, engine coil, etc.?

    By Josh on May 24, 2010 | Reply
  392. My Cabrio 2000 check engine light started occuring the moment my warranty expired. It costs me $105 (not incl. taxes) in Woodbridge, Ont. location to do a diag. test. This is now occuring every year, and it is expensive considering it could just be a silly problem. Starting to wonder if there are other mechanics out there that can perform the test at a cheaper cost?

    By FC on Jun 3, 2010 | Reply
  393. I have a 2000 GTI passat turbo, check engine light came on when I first bought it, and we saw that the vacuum hoses we’re faulty and have ripped, fixed those issues, light magically turned off. 3 weeks later, I find out my water hose disconnected itself bc one day my car just says ” STOP ” with the temp gauge flashing, saw where it disconnected, put it back an got a clamp on it, solved it.

    well, that was yesterday I did that, and today my engine light came on again.
    is that having to do with another hose/somewhere I might have touches by
    reconnecting the water hose? it’s not blinking, and it always has that shakey start for 2 seconds upon starting, then it stops immediately but has that famous VW whistling till I drive for about 20-25seconds.

    should I double check for anything else, before I try an pay someone to scan
    it, because my problem is, the guy I bought it from reconnected the raidio
    to any powersource to make it work rather than the original wiring bc the first diagnostic I got it couldnt’ “read” the car, bc of the radio not being connected correctly and I don’t want to have to pay someone to do that first, just so I can find out it’s not a bigger issue than the first time when it was just the hoses.

    By Leslie on Jun 6, 2010 | Reply
  394. I have a 2002 volkswagen jetta 1.8L GLS. My MIL (Malfuntion Indicator lamp) was on for some time. Decided to go to the dealer after receiving a letter due to a recal of the ignition coils. Got that replace but the MIL is still on. Got new spark plugs, changed the before and after oxygen sensor, changed the coolent sensor, changed everything but the car stays the same. Now the car is worst cause it cuts off on me while driving. While starting the car it will take awhile for it to start, but before it actually starts it will make a loud popping noise then after my EPC (Electronic Power Control) light while come on, idk what to do someone please help me.

    By Kirby on Jul 1, 2010 | Reply
  395. I have a 2003 Jetta. I don’t know much about it other than it’s pretty plain Jane and it says 2.0 on the engine cover. I bought it used in 2007. The check engine light came on shortly after I bought it. I was told it was an O2 sensor (which I never replaced), but the light went off mysteriously. Fast forward to today: started the car and it sounds like a buffed up lawnmower. It’s super, super loud and shakes like crazy. It also sounds like it’s possibly backfiring. So I took it to Autozone (I was super nervous doing this) and they tested it. Their codes were: P0300 (random cylinder misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 condition), and P0302 (cylinder 2 condition). There were two “symptoms” I noticed maybe a week before this happened. One was crappy gas mileage and the other was my overheating light would come on after starting my car when it had been sitting (off) for a while, like first thing in the morning. But when I turned it off and back on, the overheating light wouldn’t come on. Don’t know if these two things have anything at all to do with my current issue, but just thought I’d mention it.
    Oh, also today my brakes don’t work very well. It can be very hard to stop (not hard to press the pedal, just hard to stop). This started the same time the other issue started.
    Any ideas, anyone???

    By Stephanie on Jul 4, 2010 | Reply
  396. I have a 2001 GTI VR6. It has had various problems over the years with the CEL. A few weeks ago, I went in for an oil change and the mechanic said I needed the valve cover gasket and a cooling hose replaced. Wasn’t expecting that, as the CEL hadn’t been on. But, I had the work done.

    Fast forward to Sunday when the CEL went on. I took it to Auto Zone and it had a P0411 code, indicating a faulty air combination valve.

    I am growing beyond frustrated as the car has under 75,000 miles and think this sort of weird stuff shouldn’t be happening yet.

    I am hoping this is related to something that was worked on with the previous repair and is not a new problem. Do you know if this might be related?

    By donna on Jul 8, 2010 | Reply
  397. Ok so I have a 1998 jetta 2.0l…awile back I had problems with fowled out plugs and such so I was sputtering and threw a check engine light…now it seems everytime it rains my engine light comes on and I start to sputter at low rpms. Can you please help me figure this out!!!

    By Dylan on Jul 10, 2010 | Reply
  398. At what point should atiming belt /chain be replaced on a2oo2 jetta 1.8 Also what should it cost.. M7 car also sutters on starting only in warm weather, I have to sit and reve it . Any ideas


    By Wendy on Jul 14, 2010 | Reply
  399. Hello I had a check engine light come on. Well i took it to the shop and they said it was my o2 sensor and a hose that might of came loose from the turbo. Well They said if its not doing anything weird i can drive it. Well it was running fine until i got out of work. I started it and the light started blinking and my car started jerking and i had it in park. Then my brakes were really hard. I did shut it off. This did happen before but they had cleared the codes and it ran great for thousands of miles. What could it be and what should i do?

    By Robbie on Jul 15, 2010 | Reply
  400. And i have a 2001 vw jetta 1.8 t

    By Robbie on Jul 15, 2010 | Reply
  401. Hi!

    It seems like a lot of folks have lots of lights that come on in these cars.

    I love my 2005 VW Jetta, but seem to have one electrical problem after another with it. Luckily, they’ve all been covered by warranty.

    I do have a problem I can’t solve, however: I live in Colorado in a mountain town just outside of Denver. I drive up 2500 feet in elevation each day — so I wasn’t surprised when I first had to get my brakes replaced (a mere 6 months after buying the car — I bought it this past August used). Just today, however, the check engine light and the ABS/EPS light came on and stayed on, even after shutting the car off for a half hour. Nothing seems out of the ordinary — I have brake fluid and the reservoir is full, I have all other fluids, nothing rattles, the temperature of the vehicle is fine. The catalytic converter was replaced recently (it was defective and a recall product). Why would both of these lights come on at once?

    I have an appointment made at the dealer coming up but I’m always hesitant around those guys; they seem to charge for everything.

    Any idea what this could be?

    Oh….and it was also very hot here today, with temps around 105*.

    By Kimberly on Jul 16, 2010 | Reply
  402. i have a 2002 beetle turbo1.8 when i turn on the car in the morning the air bag light just turn on and still on , then i was driving on the hightway and the check engine light just turn on can you tell me what could be the problem ,thanks

    By salvador on Jul 19, 2010 | Reply
  403. I have a 20001.8l turbo New Beetle that sounds like a dune buggy. The last time it did this the dealer stated the turbo was coming loose and charged me $400 to tighten back up. said if continues to happen turbo is probably going bad. car runs fine just is very noisy. any other ideas?

    By Shari Lee on Jul 30, 2010 | Reply
  404. on a volkswagon beetle there is a light with a triangle with an exclamation point in the center with an arrow that circles around the triangle…what does it mean

    By magda on Aug 11, 2010 | Reply
  405. hey bro. got 2001 beetle 2.0 here..the car shakes at idle & continues shaking at low speed. engine giving a slight growling when accelerating. above around 40km/hr the car runs normally. u knw whats causing this? & how much the repair probably cost?

    By Joel on Sep 6, 2010 | Reply
  406. Hi, just bought a 2002 Jetta GL 2.0. The check engine light does not come on at all when the key is turned – so can’t get an emissions test done. Took it to a VW specialist shop and they pulled the cluster to check the bulb – only to find that this is not a replaceable bulb – the whole cluster must be replaced. $400, and it has to be done by a dealer so they can reprogram the speedometer and codes!! anyone ever hear of such a thing?

    By Jim on Sep 16, 2010 | Reply
  407. Greetings, I own a manual ’03 Jetta. It’s smog check time and, of course, the check engine light has come on. Every now and then, while driving on the freeway (only on the freeway), the accelerator will stop working. I’ll be going about 65-70 mph and all of a sudden it won’t respond, no matter how much I press the gas pedal. It only lasts for about 5 sec but I have a feeling his is what is causing my check engine light to come on. I also have a feeling it’s going to cost me a fortune.

    By Jessica on Sep 17, 2010 | Reply
  408. i have a 2003 vw GLI needs a inspection i took it to auto zone today and two codes came up. one is P0420 and its says catalyst efficiency low-bank. explanation oxygen senors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen. causes: engine misfires, large vacuum leak, engine leaks oil into exhaust-value guide seals, piston rings. second code is engine temperature too low. cause failed thermostat, poor electrical connection at ECT, failed ECT. is there nethng i can do too get this to be correct and pass inpection or do i got to break da bank and take it to da dealership where their goin to kill me in prices.

    By david on Sep 18, 2010 | Reply
  409. Hello, I have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T. I have had nothing but serious issues with this vehice since 63,500 miles. I am now at 123,000 miles. The issue today is that when I put the key in the ignition it turns over with a loud screech and then the car seems to be very noisy for about the first minute or so. Then starting out in first gear is shaky and loose, I have to keep my foot on the clutch pedal to ease into second and the same going into third. Yesterday my check engine light came on and the car is making a puttering noise when it is in neutral. I stepped out of the car and nasty fumes were coming out as well. I noticed some minor leaking of black oil as well. Any ideas? I just had the water pump and timing belt replaced less than 500 miles ago. Thanks.

    By Samantha on Sep 27, 2010 | Reply
  410. I have a 2003 Passat with 102,000 miles on it. I just had the oil changed yesterday. There was no noise and anything odd sounding when I took it in. I jumped on the hwy for a 100 mile trip, as i got close to my destination I noticed it had a knocking sound (as if it was out of oil), the oil pressure light started flashing. I stopped and check and it showed that it was full. I went another 20 miles to my final destination and it was making a high pitched whistling sound when the rpm was between 1000 & 2000. I’m afraid to drive any further. Any thoughts on what it might be????

    By Wayne on Oct 3, 2010 | Reply
  411. Hi, I have a 2004 Jetta and my CEL has been on for a while. It actually goes on and off all the time, which is why I haven’t taken it in to get looked at yet. I was wondering if you have heard of the CEL going on around the 60,000 mile mark just so you should take it into a dealership? At first I thought the light was going off after I filled up the gas tank, but it doesn’t alway prove to be true. So I have no idea what it would be. Was just curious if the manufacturer made it to where the light would come on around the 60,000 mile mark??? Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

    By Dessirae on Oct 3, 2010 | Reply
  412. Hi. I have a 2000 VW Beetle Turbo with 94,000 miles on it. Today when I turned on my car it started to shake/studder. Then when I tried to accelerate, I had to push the gas pedal all the way down. My check engine light started flashing. The shaking would quiet down for a few moments after I got some speed but every time I would slow down or have to accelerate the shaking would start. Also the check engine light would sometimes stay on for about 30 seconds but then would just start flashing again. I checked my spark plugs and none had come loose. Also I topped off my oil because it was low (I had to put in 2.5 quarts). A guy at Jiffy Lube said it might be the catalytic converter. Some one also told me it could be because I put 87 gas in and I should put in 91 because its better for the engine. Have any ideas what is wrong? Please help!

    By allie on Oct 12, 2010 | Reply
  413. I just purchased a 2006 GLI 2 weeks ago with 39k miles the other day the engine lite came while leaving a stop sign the car jerked alittle but drove fine the lite stayed on(this was saturday evening)today on Tuesdat while driving at a speed of about 50mph I sped up to pass someone at about 60 mph the engine lite started blinking but then stopped and stayed on steady again when i slowed down to about 40mph at the car drives smoothly no hesitation or feeling slugish what do you think it can be.

    By anthony on Oct 26, 2010 | Reply
  414. Hey bud I just got back from a deployment over seas to come home and have issues with MAF. I have codes p0102,0171,0321,0322 and also my ASR light is displayed in the cluster. Can my bad MAF cause all these codes? I have also changed the crank position sensor, coils, temp switch replaced w/ green one. New timming belt, waterpump, fuel filter, air filter.

    By Chris Scott on Nov 8, 2010 | Reply
  415. oh sorry its a 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t 5spd

    By Chris Scott on Nov 8, 2010 | Reply
  416. I have a 2002 Passat 1.8T and the CEL comes on intermittendly. Code says “too lean”. The cel usually comes on when I push the car a little, but then turns off again after a couple of days. Should I worry?

    By Mike on Nov 17, 2010 | Reply
  417. I just purchased a 2005.5 VW Jetta and I was wondering how I find out more about the car i.e. where it was manufactured and the model? I;ve seen a lot of Jettas and none look like mine It doesn’t have the chrome on the front bumper it’s black and the 2.5 emblem on the back is in a black orange yellow box? Could you tell me more. also there is no antenna on the roof?

    By Matt Montano on Dec 6, 2010 | Reply
  418. Thats to bad I think the car looks really good and if it is priced around the Jetta it wouldn’t be a bad price. I like the engine choices for it but would like a diesel engine the best.

  419. Hi,
    I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0 AEG with 110K miles. Lately it has been cranking slower than normal. It always starts, but you can hear the slower cranking speed. Later in the day, it will crank faster. The battery is 11 months old. I took back to Sears. They said it checked out fine but had low voltage, likely due to the charging system. I put it on a trickle charge for about 16 hours, then took the car to Advance Auto to have the alternator output checked. It is putting out 14.5 volts at idle and with the engine revved some. This is my daughter’s car for when she’s away at college, and I’m concerned about her getting stranded somewhere. Any thoughts on what to check next?

    Thanks for your help.

    By Brian on Dec 24, 2010 | Reply
  420. I have a 2000 VW beetle. I had the fuel filter replaced and now I have a jerky hesitation. It takes the car forever to get up to speed! I’m at a loss with this? I do know the O2 sensor needs to be replaced, but it needed to be replaced before all this started to happen. Do I need to have the car reprogrammed after changing the filter? ANY help would so helpful!!!!
    Thanks Joe

    By Joe Brewer on Jan 2, 2011 | Reply
  421. Hi,

    I have a 2001 VW Golf 2.0L two days after I purchased the vehicle the check engine light came on. Its really weird because the car drives absolutely fine but the light will go off/on sporadically. Its not blinking, but will turn on for a week and then be off for the next. I took it to Auto and Pep Boys but they said that when they scanned it no codes came up? I was going to get a tune-up and hoped that might fix the issue. Any ideas?

    By Cherise on Jan 3, 2011 | Reply
  422. Hi,

    I have a 2004 VW Beetle. 1 month ago I took my car to the dealer because of CEL. Long story short, they replaced the fuel pump, fuel filters, MAF, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter (covered under extended warranty). 1 week after getting my car back the CEL came back on, so I took it back to dealer. That’s when they replaced the cat. Less than a week after getting my car back again, my car turned off on the street, and gas was leaking….I had it towed back to the dealer. They claim that the clamps that hold the fuel line together, broke off because it was old and that’s what caused the leak, and not anything on their part. What I dont understand is if they replaced all the parts mentioned above, wouldn’t a visual inspection have shown that the clamp was “old” and needed to be replaced? My car was has about 86,000 miles on it by the way. Thanks for any replies. =)

    By Christina on Jan 5, 2011 | Reply
  423. Hey Cherise,

    You need to take it into a VW Stealership to check the code because they have a special system that will tell them exactly. I had my CEL on and I took it to an autozone and they guys there told me that the code is showing something wrong with my exhaust system. Which did not help at all, then I took it into a stealership and they told me it was the Thermostat which I’d changed myself for $30 and 2 hour labor in my garage and wala…CEL gone and has not resurface for over 6 months now.

    I know they charge like $100 to check the problem. But $100 to find out exactly is worth it. Guys at autozone charged me $0. Guess you get what you paid for.

    By Kouno on Jan 10, 2011 | Reply
  424. Hey allie

    For a turbo you should be putting 91 or 93 in there only and not 87. If the owner before never put 87 in there and your doing it now it will choke up because the grade levels is how well it was filtered. Meaning 93 is better filtered then 87. I recommend premium only. I have a 02 Jetta 1.8t and I only put premium in there and it can be expensive at times, but hey you get a TURBO.

    By Kouno on Jan 10, 2011 | Reply
  425. When doing any coolant repair, make sure the coolant jug/resevior has been “burped” If not, that light will come back on once it does that for low coolant. Nice to have one under warranty

    Vehicle Out Of Factory Warranty

  426. Hi, I recently got an automatic 1999 VW Jetta in a very good shape; last night when I turned it on, the Mil-light went on. I checked the manual but I only have the Booklet 3.2, and the warning lights info is in Booklet 3.1. Can you please tell me what this light mean, and what can be causing it? Another question I would like to ask; can you decelerate an automatic car by shifting down as I do it with a standard model? Thank you for your help and your time! Patricia

    By Patricia Acevedo on Feb 17, 2011 | Reply
  427. Hi there! We just replaced the battery in our 2006 Jetta Wagon and since then it’s been sputtering in drive and the check engine light has been blinking. The check engine light goes off after a little while and the sputtering stops when it’s in park or neutral. Do you think this is a battery installation issue or something else that was brought on by replacing the battery? We have a friend who is a mechanic coming to look at it tomorrow but he is limited in what he can do without a proper work space. Any ideas? Thanks! Jenn

    By Jenn Acuna on Mar 2, 2011 | Reply
  428. My local stealership is Danbury Volks and the last time I dealt with them they told me I needed a sheetload of repairs that my trusted local mechanic told me were BS. They also wanted to “flush and change” my coolant and brake fluid, “would you like us to do that while we have your car?”

    How much will that run me, I ask before casually saying yes… and it’s $349.00. WTF. Anyhow my car is not under warranty anymore and I don’t have the stomach for another go-round with these turkeys. And the indie veewee nut here is just that, a total wingnut, also cannot be dealt with or trusted.

    By Al Martino on Mar 2, 2011 | Reply
  429. Jenn, what you want to check first is that the battery cables are on really tight, and the terminals are clean. The Service Engine Soon Light usually won’t come on for a battery issue, but it’s possible. It sounds like you have a bad spark plug or something. From what you describe it’s an engine “miss”

  430. Phil, to add to what you were saying, spark plugs are very simple to change out. All you really need is a repair manual and you can do the job pretty easily. You can Download Repair Manual online in pdf format so you can get started right away.

  431. Hi there,
    My 2004 Jetta has been acting up the past few months…My CEL came on about three months after I had the water pump replaced. I went in, had the shop that replaced my water pump run a diagnostic, and the code that came up was basically saying that there was something wrong with the coolant temperature. They cleared the code, and told me to come back should my CEL come back on. It came on and off intermittently for a few months, and as of late my car refuses to start if it’s been turned off within about 10-15 minutes (say if I go to get gas, run in to pay for it, come back out and try to leave, it will not start). If I give it 10 minutes to cool off, it generally starts without much problem, occasionally I’ve had to pump the gas to encourage it to start. When I left my house today, my CEL was flashing and my car was running kind of rough so I decided to just put it back in the garage until I can get a better handle on what’s up with her…. Also, should my fuel get around 1/4-1/8th of a tank, my RPM’s will drop, and my car feels as if it’s about to stall. Putting the clutch in and bringing it back out will solve this oddity, but I’m starting to worry that one day it won’t solve it, and I will be stuck!
    Any help would be appreciated!

    By Jill on Mar 16, 2011 | Reply
  432. Hi, I have a 2003 VW Passat. I ran my AC and it ran great up until I got to a stop light and was sitting in idle. While sitting in idle, my car would die. It took several attempts as well as letting the car sit and turning off the AC for the car to start and stay running. Runs fine as long as I don’t have the AC on. Suggestions? Definitely need my AC.

    By Wendy on Apr 5, 2011 | Reply
  433. I have a 2006 GLI 2.0T and a 70000 mile tune up is coming up, what all does the 70000 mile tune up require im wondering if i can do it myself, and ive heard the 80000 mile tune up is a big one? What all do the two tune ups require?

    By Cody on Apr 19, 2011 | Reply
  434. I have a 2004 Jetta – went through a big watter puddle today and the mil light started blinking and the car is hesitiating when I stop and struggles to accelerate. Any ideas if this is something that just got wet and could “dry up”?

    By bh on Apr 22, 2011 | Reply
  435. Hi Brian. I have the same problem with my 02 Beatle. Have you figured out what is causing it. My car has done it since I bought it and it drives me crazy.
    Mechanic says it misfired and cleared all codes. I heard from another auto person that it is the distributor cap. It’s made of aluminum and it collects moisture. He said it should have been made out of copper instead. Let me know what you find out. Makes sense to me, that’s why it runs better after it warms up.

    By Michael on Apr 23, 2011 | Reply
  436. Dan,

    Since you’ve been so kind as to assist other folks, I figured I’d try a related question of my own.

    My 2005 Jetta has stalled 3 times, followed by a CEL and all gear lights remaining on. This is not an engine-stall, it’s ELECTRICAL. There’s no sputtering or loss of some power, the engine simply shuts off entirely. Two times, I was doing about 30mph in the city when it did it. third time happened while trying to start it. After each stall, the car will not start. The starter turns, plenty of battery, the engine just won’t fire up.
    The car would eventually start if I pulled the key out, waited 5 minutes or so and put the key back in and tried again.

    My VW dealer took a look at it after the first time, pulled codes (after requiring me get my professionally installed aftermarket radio removed!!) and then blamed the aftermarket radio because they could not figure out what was wrong.

    I’m currently driving around with the radio completely removed, just to rule it out as the source of the problem, although I fully believe it’s yet another sensor or module of some kind that has failed in this car.

    Any ideas?

    By andy on May 20, 2011 | Reply
  437. Hi I just bought a 2002 VW GTi 1.8t last week. Since i bought in this past week the check engine light has come on. I had the codes read and it was a misfire in cylinder 1 and a sensor problem the guy told me to get a tune-up. then the next day i drove the car fro an hour, then it sat for an hour and when i started it back up again the temperature guage went all the way hot and the coolant light was flashing. the engine was not at all hot and my coolant level was fine! help

    By Carly on May 20, 2011 | Reply
  438. Engine stalled yet again while the radio was COMPLETELY REMOVED. Took it to the dealer, who still blames the radio, because some disconnected wire connected to a fuse is left over from the installation.

    By andy on May 25, 2011 | Reply
  439. Dax,
    My husband and I just arrived in Monterey, CA a little over a week ago from Colorado Springs. My husband’s 2008 turbo charged manual GTI started idling ‘rough’ yesterday afternoon (ie; at stop lights it would rest at 800 rpm, and then jump to 2,000 rpm while still stopped). It’s at 64,000 miles and the thing that makes this girl cranky is that we had the 60k check done before our drive out ($650!!!). The car’s never done this before and it behaved like a champ on the drive out.

    The shops out here are quoting me $110-$135 just to pull codes and check it out. In other states any local body shop/auto zone, etc will pull codes for free (as you seem to have suggested earlier in your blog). Is this a reasonable price (combined with 1hr diagnostic check) in CA?

    Also any hunches on what might be wrong with the car?

    By Cranky Wifey on May 31, 2011 | Reply
  440. Hey! I’ve got a 97 VW Golf GTI and for an unknown reason my car won’t start when its hot outside but when its cool it fires up no problem. I performed what I thought to be basic troubleshooting (battery, connections, etc) and all checked out fine. The shop I took it to seems to be convinced its my ignition switch, but I think it has to do with a temperature sensor bc this only started happening once the temp outside rose to over 90 degrees and my car fires up in the morning and evening and runs fine once its started. Have you ever heard of this type of issue from a VW? BTW the only light on the dash is the Brake light.

    By Alex on Jun 13, 2011 | Reply
  441. Hi, Dan:
    I have a 2002 VW 2.0 beetle, 93K miles. Recently the air conditioning stopped cooling when the CEL came on steady. I took it to the local mechanic and he reset the CEL. He did not say what the codes were. I would not have understood it anyway!
    The following morning I drove the vehicle to the office and the air conditioning was cooling fine and the CEL was off. After about 10 minutes on the highway the CEL came on steady and the air conditioning stopped cooling.
    I have not ensured that the fuel cap is on good as the vehicle is currently with the mechanic and I have just now read some of the posts that are similar.
    These are the symptoms…any suggestions as the the problem(s)?
    Thanks, Russ

    By Russ on Jun 16, 2011 | Reply
  442. HI i am a owner of a 2001 beetle my check engine light came on a couple of days ago i took it to auto zone it came up with the code cylinder 2 miss fire.the mechanics said it was safe to drive so i did for a day or two until i could get it to the mechanic he replaced the spark plugs but now it is even worse the engine light started flashing on my way to work the car seem to have trouble accelerating and shook now i am very worried . please any info would help.


    By theresa on Jun 27, 2011 | Reply
  443. Ok..yes autozone and other parts stores do scan codes…some states have made it illegal for them to do so for example California…

    By Mike on Jul 7, 2011 | Reply
  444. I purchased a 2006 VW Jetta and are having problems. It has 93,000 miles. Check Engine Light came on and I got codes checked, stating what most of the comments above say, sensor, check vacuum leak, too rich something,etc. I recently got a new battery, plugs, had oil changed. Can you tell me what it may be. Also it is smoking a little dark colored smoke from tailpipe, getting bad gas mileage. Can you give me some information.

    By Beverly Stewart on Jul 8, 2011 | Reply
  445. Hey have a 2003 vw beetle I bought it in 2008 of a dealer t had 74864 mile in that yr. In a month the check eng.light came on and it told me it was the cat efficiency below threshold took it back to the dealer in he said he fox it light never cam back on now I have 100046 mile took it to the for a smog and they said it the same promble and that check eng light was not on do u think that the deal fix the promble or just turn the eng. Light off. By the way my name is abigail

    By Abigail on Jul 10, 2011 | Reply
  446. I have a 2001 tdi jetta, the check engine light came on so I used a buddies programmer(diognostic tool) and found it to be the ect ($30) and not the cadilidic converter (1300) that the dealer told me it was why the light came on.
    after sorting that out I now have a clunk when I decelerate in fisrt gear, Im not 100% sure what that is as it only happens in first gear so far. I was thinking clutch plate maybe???
    it did this just before my last oil change, but much more mildly, and went away after that oil change completely. I am now due for an oil change. Do you have any Ideas?

    By Roberto on Jul 13, 2011 | Reply
  447. Hello there… I have a 2003 vw jetta gli…while sitting in traffic with a lot of stop and go action, my car tsalled and would not start back up again. After sitting for a few minutes it started back up again but about five mminutes later the same thing happenedagain only this time the check engine light and the oil light were on. The didn’t over heat or anything or even run hot. Any ideas what this could be?

    By Bill on Jul 14, 2011 | Reply
  448. I have a 2002 volkswagon beetle. I have had it to the dealer four times to get the check engine light scanned and problem taken care of. Each time on the way home the light comes back on. It is on as I write and it will go back in for the fith visit in few days. Have you ever heard it taking this long to find the problem? I would appreciate your comments and advice as this is becoming a very frustrating experience with no end in sight. Thank you. Vicki

    By vicki on Jul 16, 2011 | Reply
  449. motor mount lost a bolt so the motor moved back and fourth.

    By Roberto on Jul 19, 2011 | Reply
  450. Hey, so i have a 1999 volk passat 4 cyl in line turbo. The other day was a super intense lightning storm with its usual partner in crime rain. While i was driving there was this puddle that didnt look deep so not thinking anything of it i drove through however when i did my car puttered out and died. Now when it died all the electronics still worked and everything seemed fine with the exception of me freaking out. After i realized im not dead i tried to crank it over but when i did it really fought with me. After another try it turned over so i put it in drive and it drove a bit forward than died so i left it for alittle bit than tried to turn it over again (this time without any issues) while it was idling it was kind of puttering but after awhile it was idleing just fine so i threw it in drive and it went without dieing it was alittle iffy at first like it was fighting to stay alive but after no real issues. After i got home i noticed that the check malfuntion light was on and i read in my book that when that goes off it means there is an issue with the catalytic converter could that just be the problem?

  451. ok so i have a 2000 vw passat 1.8t and the check engine light came on while i was driving and it started blinking right soon as i got home the car started shudderring as if it were gonna die on me and the engine sounded like a compressor…have any idea what the problem coud be??plz i need help

    By francisco bustillos on Aug 19, 2011 | Reply
  452. My engine check light is on and when checked there are no codes. Recently the codes were cleared after disconnecting the battery to remove it.

    Initial problem was a/c was not working and fans would not turn on so the relay box under the battery was changed. Still a/c was leaked checked and compressor turns on but still no fans and does not still get cold. Any ideas since no codes what it could be on a 2001 tdi bettle?

    By Carmine Humphries on Aug 21, 2011 | Reply
  453. Hi I have a 2005 Jetta. The check engine light is on and while driving it miss fires or cuts on but the engine stays on. It started last night and this morning I had to try a few times to start it. I think it might be the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, speed sensor, crank sensor or maybe alternator? What do u think?

    By Ping on Sep 13, 2011 | Reply
  454. We have a 2006 New Beetle and have replaced the mass air flow sensor twice and another diagnostic says it is bad, will not pass emission testing here in GA. Any suggestions, that’s the only error that showed in the diagnostic and a VW dealer ran the diagnostic.

    By rhonda daniels on Sep 17, 2011 | Reply
  455. The C.E.L. on my girlfriends 2005 Jetta GLS 2.0 keeps coming on. I took it to autozone for a diagnostic and it said engine temperature too low, after the diagnostic the C.E.L. went off and the next day it was back on. I had the thermostat and ETC replaced and its still throwing the same code. And sometimes when I start it (or try to start it) it sputters to life (usually after a few tries) and the RPMs go up to and stay at about 4000 and when I hit the gas she stalls. Last week it shot black smoke out the pipe when I tried to start it.

    By Greg on Sep 19, 2011 | Reply
  456. My 1999 Passat has over 206,000 miles on it and has been a very good car, but recently my CEL came on after 180 mile round trip to the mountains in CO. I went to start my car after it sat in the drive way for an hour and the CEL would not start blinking; the engine was running super rough. I thought I broke the motor mounts and that perhaps the lifters went bad because of the noise. I let the car sit overnight. The next morning I started the car and the engine was as smooth as a brand new car; the CEL was now solidly lit and would not turn off. Again, I let it sit for a day. It drove perfect for the next 3 days before the CEL started blinking again and it started running rough again. It is at the dealership now but I am told they cannot do a OBD to read the codes and cannot figure out why. What can the problem be with all of this??? HELP!

    By Alexa on Sep 22, 2011 | Reply
  457. i was driving and my car just started slowley dieng it was fighting to stay alive then it just died and wouldent start again it will crank got power just not starting please help

    By allenkraay on Sep 26, 2011 | Reply
  458. oh and fuel pump is good gas spit out for about 2seconds

    By allenkraay on Sep 26, 2011 | Reply
  459. I bought a 2002 vw jetta gls wagon with 2.0 engine last week. I noticed about 2 days ago that, the radiator fans are not working so when the car is stationery the coolant starts boiling and overflows and the temperature begins to rise. However when the car is on the move, the temperature remains at 190. Also, the MIL has been on. What could be the problem? Please help!

    By Aswad on Sep 26, 2011 | Reply
  460. I have a 2003 volkswagon new beetle. Earlier this week i hit a pothole and the “EPC” light came on. ever since then my car will die randomly and theres a significant difference in engine power. Maybe you know whats going on.

    By Cody on Oct 2, 2011 | Reply
  461. Hello fellow Vdubbers! I have a question and I hope someone can help me out. I have an 05 vw golf tdi 1.9 hatch. What is happening is, whenever I accelerate, my turbo/engine bay sounds as though it is loosing air somewhere in there. I checked my car with a OBDII reader and it said I had an error code 16683 ( Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached). Is there a way to fix this without having to go to a mechanic? Who said chics can’t get under a car? Smile. Please help, anyone?

    By CanadianSnowChic on Oct 3, 2011 | Reply
  462. I have a 2002 VW Passat Wagon 1.8L Turbo…this morning, I turned the ignition and my CEL was blinking and my car was shuddering. I have already had my coil pack replaced last year…could this be the problem again? or the catalyic converter? Help please?!

    By katy on Oct 9, 2011 | Reply
  463. I have a 2005 jetta. It is a v6, I have owned it for 2 years, and the check engine light came on this week. Nothing appears wrong and it drives smooth, but I definitely do not want to take my chances for too long. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    By KG on Oct 11, 2011 | Reply
  464. I have a 2003 jetta GLI and my tep and abs light flickers on and off and my rpms drop… what is the issue? I already just replace the battery and alternator. Another thing is my radio sometimes stops music for a sec while idleing then comes on again.

    By Lance on Oct 14, 2011 | Reply
  465. i have a 97 GTI 2.0 engine with 120,000 miles on it.
    Runs quite well, but when i sit in traffic for about 15 or 20 minutes it starts to bogg on me. if i let the cluch in easy and advance slowly it kicks, i step on the gas and it has no power then suddenly it takes off. yet it idles well. once i’m out of traffic i can still feel it missing once in a while at higher speeds. takes a while for it to run well again. I have this problem in traffic only.

    By tony salvatore on Oct 15, 2011 | Reply
  466. just bought a golf 2.0 2004 with 140000km on it was driving it home when the abs light followed by the ecs light came on then my car lost power and stalled, wated about a half hour and it started agian then drove it home with no problems. ran fine for 2 days now it just did the same thing, engine feels hotter than it should be, i cleaned the battery and terminals and cant find the problem. someone plz help

    By Alex on Oct 18, 2011 | Reply
  467. Ecu relay in the black box by the brake fluid container. Costs 50 buck

    By michael on Oct 30, 2011 | Reply
  468. 2000 Beetle–I live in South Florida and the other night the streets got flooded from a storm. I was on my way home from work and drove through a rather large puddle. Now the check engine light is on and the car is sputtering at traffic lights…i have to throw it into neutral because if feels like it wants to die. I just had to put a new battery in it about 3 days ago…really hope its not the alternator. Any ideas?

    By Bob on Oct 31, 2011 | Reply
  469. Hi! i’m paying on a 2003 Jetta GL and have been having electrical problems with it since i got it. The locks all dont lock and unlock (esp the rear ones). I’ve noticed when driving at night that the headlights dim and the lights on the a/c controls will turn off or on. It was turning itself off when i came to a stop then restarting automatically. tonight it turned the engine off at a stop sign and had to turn the car off then back on. Sometimes when i turn the car off the lights inside and out and radio turn off before i take the key out or turn the lights off and it’ll reset the odometer and clock. I had the alternator replaced cause thats what one mechanic said it was. Didn’t fix it. still turned off when coming to a stop. The battery is new and has no corrosion. the dealer i’m buying it from cleaned all the ground wires and it solved it for a time but now its started again. Any ideas how to fix it? i’ve heard it could be the BCM or a short in the wiring somewhere in it. Help! I’m scarred to drive it long distances since i frequently drive to atlanta (260 mile round trip for me)

    By Hannah on Dec 2, 2011 | Reply
  470. My 2005.5 jetta value edition’s coolant temp sensor kept popping out causing overheating. What a disaster that was! Immediately after it was fixed, the car started misfiring. I changed all plugs and coils and it was fine for a few days. Now when I start the car it idles fine, but when its put into gear and driven, it starts to misfire once I hit 3rd, 4th and 5th. In turn, the exhaust malfunction light(looks like C.E.L.) flashes until i stop. Once I stop, the light stops flashing but stays on. Once it gets real warm, it starts misfiring in all gears. It is still throwing misfire codes!!! What am I doing wrong? Any ideas?Thank you for listening

    By brad on Dec 13, 2011 | Reply
  471. I have a 2001 VW Passat V6 with 4-Motion and the CEL light is on> When I accelerate the car bucks and backfires until I get up to 2500-3000 RPMs. I can go in 4-Motion and accelerate thru all the gears with very little, if any, backfiring or bucking.

    If I accelerate hard the CEL flashes until I slow down and let the engine level off. Once I get up to the speed I want, the car runs fine until I go to accelerate again.

    I have changed the spark plugs and it was a little better but is back to the same thing again now.

    By John on Dec 19, 2011 | Reply
  472. Hello,
    I have a 2003 VW passat V6. I have had many engine light codes that have to do lean/rich fuel ratio, misfires in 3 &6 cylinders, something about the O2 sensors. But before this I had replaced the cylinder pack, wires, spark plugs, and the catalytic converters and o2 sensors along the passenger side, and one post catlytic converter under the driver side. I’m at a lost for how to stop the jerking that happens between 30-40 mph. please help me!

    By Camille on Jan 9, 2012 | Reply
  473. The IAT sensor is actually inside the housing where your MAF (Mass Airflow) Sensor is. They are both on the intake tube about 6 inches from the air filter and there is a single plug that attaches to it. Hope this helps.

    By Martin on Feb 3, 2012 | Reply
  474. I have a 2003 vw golf engine size 2.0 L. about 6 months ago I’ve failed smog smog. my check en gine light read p0420. I went on to replace both oxygen sensors. the check engine light went off then return it after 40 miles with 2 codes now. P2181&p0420.
    I know when on to replace coolant sensor and thermostat .
    my exhaust begin to smell better but after 40 miles but both codes re appeared . I’m stumped don’t know what to do now please help .

    By rick on Feb 7, 2012 | Reply
  475. Hi, I just recently purchased a 2002 VW Jetta VR6 with the 2.0 AZG motor. To make a long story short I bought it and it shifted perfectly fine and had no lights on..about 5 hours after purchasing the car the CEL came on..I hooked it up and ran the codes and got two back. The first was P0420 and the second I cant recall off the top of my head but it said the ignition coil was bad and had to possibly do with cylinder 3. After the light came on and ever since the car seems to shift funny. At times it will shift smooth and at other times it will have a delayed shift going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Also if you gas it to much when it reaches around 5 to 5500 rpms it seems to possibly slip or have a very delayed shift. There are times also when you put it in drive it will seem to lurch forward but it is very tempermental and only does it at certain times..could these CEL’s be the cause of this or am I looking at some very expensive transmission problems?? Any and all help is appreciated!!

    By Nate on Feb 16, 2012 | Reply
  476. Hey i have a 1999 Cabrio, and my car wouldn’t start sometimes and i diagnosed the problem to the crank sensor thanks to the code and AllData, but once i changed it Alldata tells me to generate a readiness code and i have no idead what that is

    By Mike on Feb 22, 2012 | Reply
  477. The Production of 2008 Wolfsburg Jetta Edition was limited to only 12,500 units. It had come equippe with a 200-hp turbo engine that is good for generating torque of 207 pound-feet.

  478. i have a 2007 city jetta,the transmission(automatic)when in drive stops working acting like its in neutral but the other gears work,usually dropping to 3rd then back to drive will make it work againnthe engine light and gear indicator are lit up sometimes,then theyll shut off come back on,also the car locks up by itself whethewr the3 door is open or not,then when you start the car the alarm sounds for a second,the stereo buttons for skipping songs works sometimes then doesnt.also the light on the passenger rear window switch stopped lighting up and window cant be put down from the back,but works fine from the drivers controls,the break pedal goes almost to the floor as well even though they were just diagnostic done on it(100$)to be told it could be one of seven or eight problems.the tranny works fine when the warning lights are on but when they arent on sometimes it works ok but usually starts screwing up,ive been driving jettas for v20 years but will never buy a vw again,esecially because of the way the dealership has treated me in regards to these issues,they are very deceitful,anyway,can someone give me an idea whats causing all this to happen,cant get aqny help or answers from dealership without getting gouged badly,any help is much appreciated,i should point out ive only had this car 3 months and theres less than 100 000kms on this thing

    By shawn on Mar 19, 2012 | Reply
  479. I have a 2004 Volkswagen Touareg V6 3.2L engine. IService engine came on and stayed. Sometimes it would blink, but then go back to steady on. It had started shaking and running real hard. And it started to raise up and down at times. I went to Auto zone and had it scanned. There was a misfiring for all spark plugs and code 2279 for the air intake. First, i changed all spark plugs, air filter, pollen filter. But, the shaking was still there and the service engine light was still on. Then the mechanic stated to change the MAF Sensor, and noticed that was some air seaping out of the Heated PVC Valve. So, i had that changed, and the service engine light disappeared and my truck is now running just like new again.

  480. Last week i took my Touareg to the Emission testing site right after i had the PCV Valve changed. It was rejected. I was told that it was not ready. I was advised to add some mileage and let the sensors and air blow out since it was just repaired. So i took it back this morning and everything was just fine. I passed the emission with flying colors…

  481. Hi there ;) I bought my 2006 Super Beetle used, it had only 62K miles on it and it was almost 6 years old. No warranty, ofcourse. Shortly fater I bought it, weird things started to happen…like it would not start. It would crank and crank, but not turn over. Then the “check emissions” light came on and I took it to Advance Auto where they diagnosed the problem…a new MAF sensor filter, which I replaced. Occaisionally, it would have trouble starting, like after I had not driven it for a day or two. But then it would always fire up first thing Monday morning to get me to work. Recently it has been doing this again, only more frequently. I took it to a local well known family run auto repair business and they are now telling me (after having my car for 3 days!!!) that it looks (possibly) to be something in the engine as the engine is now making a “screaming noise like a cat” is how the mechanic described it. They are telling me that the worst case scenario is that the engine will need to be rebuilt! But, ofcourse they won;t be certain until all the tests are complete and they have a better idea of what to do…the mechanic is telling me that an engine re-build can cost about $3000.00!!! I am devastated…please give a girl a break and maybe tell me of someone else who has had this problem.

    By Jennifer on Jul 18, 2012 | Reply
  482. I have a 2004 GLS Jett Wagen with a 1.8 Turbo. Only 49,500 miles on it I bought it new. Got engine light and fluid light on. REPLACED the ECT sensor and no more engine light and no fluid light on dash. Coolant is full. After driving for a few minutes temperature gauge shoots up to the highest mark in the red. What do you think it is? Water pump or thermostat? Thought I had it fixed but guess only partially. Any info greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    By Kelly on Jul 1, 2013 | Reply
  483. Hi, I have had my 2006 Beetle for 2 weeks. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The day I bought it, the Emission light came on and scared me to death. The next day, I put in premium fuel, and drove it on the turnpike for about 15 miles. Stopped and turned the car off and on, and it was out. Now, 2 weeks later, the light came on again. So, I again put in premium gas, and even a fuel additive, but it’s still on. I did not drive it as far as the last time, so maybe it will go off? The only thing I can think of as to why it might have come on again is I had the bumper fixed and it sat for 2 days without being driven. I make sure I click the gas lid 3-4 times. The car runs perfect, and I had it examined at Firestone before I bought it, and apart from needing 2 new tires, got the all clear.

    By Jenni on Oct 25, 2013 | Reply
  484. I have a 199.5 vw jetta vr6 AFP!I am getting many electrical short to ground codes and i cleaned the terminals under the battery box and the car is still running really rough and really rich! I noticed that on the alternator there is a visible nut that is on a screw and there is no wire attached to it! The kid i bought the car from just had the alternator replaced. The camshaft sensor also had oil in the plug and was bad and i replaced it and still runs rough and when i down shift it pops like a lil bit of backfiring going on! My MIL and ABS and a the other lights in the middle cluster will not illuminate and my temp gauge is also not moving.I am going to check the converter to see if it is clogged but i want to figure out the electrical short faults that i am getting! Here is the scan!

    20 Faults Found:
    18010 – Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 – 35-10 – Voltage too Low – Intermittent
    16684 – Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0300 – 35-10 – - Intermittent
    16687 – Cylinder 3
    P0303 – 35-10 – Misfire Detected – Intermittent
    16497 – Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
    P0113 – 35-10 – Signal too High – Intermittent
    16486 – Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    P0102 – 35-00 – Signal too Low
    17834 – EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
    P1426 – 35-00 – Open Circuit
    17950 – Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
    P1542 – 35-10 – Implausible Signal – Intermittent
    17952 – Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
    P1544 – 35-10 – Signal too Large – Intermittent
    17580 – Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
    P1172 – 35-10 – - Intermittent
    17633 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
    P1225 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17637 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5 (N83)
    P1229 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17635 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
    P1227 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17638 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 6 (N84)
    P1230 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17880 – EVAP Leak Detection Pump
    P1472 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17843 – Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)
    P1435 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17829 – Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
    P1421 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17636 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
    P1228 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17923 – Intake Manifold Valve (N156)
    P1515 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17634 – Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
    P1226 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    17525 – Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2
    P1117 – 35-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent
    Readiness: 0110 1101

    Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
    Part No: 1J0 907 379 H
    Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN 0001
    Coding: 03604
    Shop #: WSC 00066
    VCID: 3663DDFA12827BAE71B-4B1A

    3 Faults Found:
    01276 – ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
    16-00 – Signal Outside Specifications
    00290 – ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
    35-00 – -
    00287 – ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
    35-00 – -

    Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.lbl
    Part No: 1J0 909 609
    Component: C AIRBAG VW3 SG 0002
    Coding: 00067
    Shop #: WSC 00066
    VCID: ECD7BF929C4E717ED7F-4B1A

    1 Fault Found:
    00532 – Supply Voltage B+
    07-10 – Signal too Low – Intermittent

    Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-919-xxx-17.lbl
    Part No: 1J0 919 951 B
    Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V57
    Coding: 06262
    Shop #: WSC 00000
    VCID: 2F6DE89EEDD84A6632D-5142

    1 Fault Found:
    01039 – Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
    29-10 – Short to Ground – Intermittent

    Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
    Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
    Component: 61 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
    Coding: 04096
    Shop #: WSC 00066
    VCID: 8603ED3AA2E2AB2E21B-4AE8

    Subsystem 1 – Part No: 1J1959801C
    Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. FS0001r

    Subsystem 2 – Part No: 1J1959802D
    Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. BF0001r

    Subsystem 3 – Part No: 1J4959811C
    Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. HL0001r

    Subsystem 4 – Part No: 1J4959812C
    Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. HR0001H

    4 Faults Found:
    00953 – Interior Light Time limit
    25-10 – Unknown Switch Condition – Intermittent
    01358 – Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150)
    27-10 – Implausible Signal – Intermittent
    00912 – Window Regulator Switch; Front Left (E40)
    27-10 – Implausible Signal – Intermittent
    00944 – Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
    35-00 – -

    By mike on Oct 18, 2014 | Reply

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