Comments on: Check Engine Light Double Whammy http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/ Reviews, opinions and rants on all things Volkswagen Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:28:23 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 By: jeff york http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216443 jeff york Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:13:12 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216443 After several hours of reading and looking, I got lucky. My AC was not working, the radiator fans were not coming on, and my brake light came on if you pressed the fresh air button beside the AC button on my 2002 Jetta. There is a 7.5 amp fuse in the interior fuse panel, position 15 I believe, that was blown. Also in the fuse panel under the hood on top of the battery there are 3 30 amp fuses. The one on the left looked fine but when I pulled it out, one side was badly burned. I replaced it with a normal 30 amp fuse and my ac began working, my fans worked, no more brake light. Drove all day yesterday and still fine. I hope this helps someone. Thanks for the information. After several hours of reading and looking, I got lucky. My AC was not working, the radiator fans were not coming on, and my brake light came on if you pressed the fresh air button beside the AC button on my 2002 Jetta. There is a 7.5 amp fuse in the interior fuse panel, position 15 I believe, that was blown. Also in the fuse panel under the hood on top of the battery there are 3 30 amp fuses. The one on the left looked fine but when I pulled it out, one side was badly burned. I replaced it with a normal 30 amp fuse and my ac began working, my fans worked, no more brake light. Drove all day yesterday and still fine. I hope this helps someone.

Thanks for the information.

]]> By: Jeff http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216386 Jeff Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:19:57 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216386 Thanks, I plan to work on it today. I thought it could be a vaccum leak but was unable to find one. I also had a CEL on but was able to correct that. I had the car scanned and had no codes stored. To clear the CEL, open the fuse panel on the side of the dash on the drivers side. Go to the third row of fuses from the top. In the middle there is a fuse that shows a picture of the engine for that location. I think the picture of the engine had a lighting bolt or line through it, (car not here at the moment or I would double check). With the car running, pull the fuse. The post said the engine would run rough for a moment but it would not hurt anything. When I did it, the engine actually went dead. Reinsert the fuse and restart the car. The CEL is no longer on. One note, on the post it stated it would be a 10 amp fuse, on mine it was a 15 amp. The result was the CEL went away. I hope this can help others with the CEL with no stored codes. I assume it is a way to reset the memory. Thanks, I plan to work on it today. I thought it could be a vaccum leak but was unable to find one. I also had a CEL on but was able to correct that. I had the car scanned and had no codes stored. To clear the CEL, open the fuse panel on the side of the dash on the drivers side. Go to the third row of fuses from the top. In the middle there is a fuse that shows a picture of the engine for that location. I think the picture of the engine had a lighting bolt or line through it, (car not here at the moment or I would double check). With the car running, pull the fuse. The post said the engine would run rough for a moment but it would not hurt anything. When I did it, the engine actually went dead. Reinsert the fuse and restart the car. The CEL is no longer on. One note, on the post it stated it would be a 10 amp fuse, on mine it was a 15 amp. The result was the CEL went away. I hope this can help others with the CEL with no stored codes. I assume it is a way to reset the memory.

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216366 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:19:14 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216366 That's a really odd problem Jeff. Sounds like some wires are crossed or something. :P Seriously though, you may be onto something there with the relay or fuse. Look into those first and follow the line from there. That’s a really odd problem Jeff. Sounds like some wires are crossed or something. :P Seriously though, you may be onto something there with the relay or fuse. Look into those first and follow the line from there.

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216365 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:18:06 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216365 Hey Martin, yes, you should stop the car as soon as possible if it's blinking. In this case, you could have a bad coilpack which will cause misfiring and general running problems in the engine. If this repair hasn't already been done to your car, there is a recall out for that so you can get it done free of charge at the dealer. Hmm, moisture from the rain could have a part in it as well. Another common problem is a bad MAF sensor, so maybe look into those two things and let me know how it goes. Sorry for all the problems you're having! Hey Martin, yes, you should stop the car as soon as possible if it’s blinking. In this case, you could have a bad coilpack which will cause misfiring and general running problems in the engine. If this repair hasn’t already been done to your car, there is a recall out for that so you can get it done free of charge at the dealer.

Hmm, moisture from the rain could have a part in it as well. Another common problem is a bad MAF sensor, so maybe look into those two things and let me know how it goes. Sorry for all the problems you’re having!

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216364 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:15:52 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216364 Ah, I was gonna say, man you got away with a transmission change under $1,000? lol :) But on a serious note, if your light is blinking you need to shut the car off right away or as soon as possible. The blinking light is like an emergency warning. What was your temperature at when that occurred, if you remember? Ah, I was gonna say, man you got away with a transmission change under $1,000? lol :)

But on a serious note, if your light is blinking you need to shut the car off right away or as soon as possible. The blinking light is like an emergency warning. What was your temperature at when that occurred, if you remember?

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216361 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:08:20 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216361 Hey Chris, I was gonna say the most common culprit for these symptoms is coilpacks. Hmm, there are other parts along the ignition that could still be causing the problem. The MAF sensor is another source of those problems. Maybe take a look at that next? Hey Chris, I was gonna say the most common culprit for these symptoms is coilpacks. Hmm, there are other parts along the ignition that could still be causing the problem. The MAF sensor is another source of those problems. Maybe take a look at that next?

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216360 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:05:12 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216360 Hey Crystal, you're right. It could be the coolant temp sensor and there's a recall out for that. Though I'm not sure if the bad sensor will cause the temperature fluctuations. If you're getting inconsistent temps, definitely don't wait too long to get that checked out. You don't want an overheated engine. :) If it is just the temp sensor, they should do the repair free of charge. Let's hope that's what it is! Hey Crystal, you’re right. It could be the coolant temp sensor and there’s a recall out for that. Though I’m not sure if the bad sensor will cause the temperature fluctuations. If you’re getting inconsistent temps, definitely don’t wait too long to get that checked out. You don’t want an overheated engine. :) If it is just the temp sensor, they should do the repair free of charge. Let’s hope that’s what it is!

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216357 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:48:25 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216357 Hey Barry, you could have the faulty temp sensor that has a recall out. You can drop by a dealer to have that changed free of charge if you haven't already. Also, <a href="http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136744" rel="nofollow">here's a link discussing the evap leak code</a>. Hey Barry, you could have the faulty temp sensor that has a recall out. You can drop by a dealer to have that changed free of charge if you haven’t already. Also, here’s a link discussing the evap leak code.

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216356 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:46:02 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216356 Hmmm, odd one there Felix. Could be a computer glitch or a problem with a sensor somewhere along the liens. Since you did get a CEL, your best option is to get the computer scanned as that will tell you and the shop exactly what the problem. Then you can move forward with a repair, if needed, from there. Good luck! Hmmm, odd one there Felix. Could be a computer glitch or a problem with a sensor somewhere along the liens. Since you did get a CEL, your best option is to get the computer scanned as that will tell you and the shop exactly what the problem. Then you can move forward with a repair, if needed, from there. Good luck!

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216353 Dan Volkens Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:35:58 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216353 Hey Scott, hmm, you shouldn't need to do that under normal conditions with fuel-injected cars, unlike the old carburator engines from the 80s where doing that helped start it. By holding down the gas pedal, do you mean actually revving the engine while starting to keep it going, or just to actually initiate the start? Hey Scott, hmm, you shouldn’t need to do that under normal conditions with fuel-injected cars, unlike the old carburator engines from the 80s where doing that helped start it. By holding down the gas pedal, do you mean actually revving the engine while starting to keep it going, or just to actually initiate the start?

]]> By: Jeff http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216341 Jeff Sat, 13 Mar 2010 03:50:05 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216341 Hello, I just bought my daughter a 2002 Jetta 1.8T. Our first Volkswagen. The AC is not working even though fully cahrged with good pressure. I tried to jump high pressure switch to make clutch engage per chilton manual but it did not work. Also, and this is odd, when I press the recirculated air button next to AC button, my brake light comes on and their is a dinging noise like what you get if you exit the car with the headlights on. It stays on as long as the button is pressed in. If I take it off of recirculate, the light and bells go off. Possibly a relay or fuse problem? I read on another site that fuses in the wrong place in the fuse panel on on drivers side of dash could cause this. Any ideas? Ever heard of this? Hello,

I just bought my daughter a 2002 Jetta 1.8T. Our first Volkswagen. The AC is not working even though fully cahrged with good pressure. I tried to jump high pressure switch to make clutch engage per chilton manual but it did not work. Also, and this is odd, when I press the recirculated air button next to AC button, my brake light comes on and their is a dinging noise like what you get if you exit the car with the headlights on. It stays on as long as the button is pressed in. If I take it off of recirculate, the light and bells go off.

Possibly a relay or fuse problem? I read on another site that fuses in the wrong place in the fuse panel on on drivers side of dash could cause this.

Any ideas? Ever heard of this?

]]> By: Martin http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216340 Martin Sat, 13 Mar 2010 03:23:03 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216340 I bought an 03 Jetta almost two months ago, it has 62k on it and it looks brand new but I've had several problems already. The CEL came on three weeks after I got it and had to get air flow ratio sensor replaced. Today I was driving it and the CEL came on again this time flashing. I heard it's better to stop in that case so I drove those 5 blocks back home and left it there. But on that short drive the car was slamming and when I would stop the engine would hesitate staying on! Do you know what could be the problem? This car had the catalytic convertor replaced before it was sold to me so that shouldn't be it. The car was running perfectly 2 days ago (the last time I drove it) and it rained all of yesterday and last night so I don't know if that has something to do with it. I bought an 03 Jetta almost two months ago, it has 62k on it and it looks brand new but I’ve had several problems already. The CEL came on three weeks after I got it and had to get air flow ratio sensor replaced. Today I was driving it and the CEL came on again this time flashing. I heard it’s better to stop in that case so I drove those 5 blocks back home and left it there. But on that short drive the car was slamming and when I would stop the engine would hesitate staying on! Do you know what could be the problem? This car had the catalytic convertor replaced before it was sold to me so that shouldn’t be it. The car was running perfectly 2 days ago (the last time I drove it) and it rained all of yesterday and last night so I don’t know if that has something to do with it.

]]> By: Crystal http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216329 Crystal Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:46:51 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216329 So I meant to say alternator instead of tranny. And the engine light has since turned off but the temp light is still on and blinking. So I meant to say alternator instead of tranny. And the engine light has since turned off but the temp light is still on and blinking.

]]> By: Chris http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216278 Chris Wed, 10 Mar 2010 02:33:44 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216278 I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8T. When I start the car (cold) my idle goes to 1200 rpm to warm up and when it finally dips down to 800 rpm it then dips 100 rpm every 5 to 10 seconds and rises back up. And on occasion it misfires and throws the random misfire code and the codes for the affected cylinders. I just recently replaced all the coil packs, and I have no clue where to look next. I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8T. When I start the car (cold) my idle goes to 1200 rpm to warm up and when it finally dips down to 800 rpm it then dips 100 rpm every 5 to 10 seconds and rises back up. And on occasion it misfires and throws the random misfire code and the codes for the affected cylinders. I just recently replaced all the coil packs, and I have no clue where to look next.

]]> By: Crystal http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216228 Crystal Sun, 07 Mar 2010 23:40:07 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216228 Hey, I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with 57k on it. The temp light came on 2 days after taking it into VW dealer to get a new tranny and battery. I bought more coolant cause it was a little low (about 3/4 full). But the light hasn't gone off. I called VW and all they said was bring it in but I am not paying another $100 to run a diagnostic when I just payed that plus $650 to get it fixed a few weeks ago. The temp gage has been going back and forth from 190-240. But yesterday the check engine light came on, on top of all that. Im thinking I need to get a new coolant temp sensor? Hey, I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with 57k on it. The temp light came on 2 days after taking it into VW dealer to get a new tranny and battery. I bought more coolant cause it was a little low (about 3/4 full). But the light hasn’t gone off. I called VW and all they said was bring it in but I am not paying another $100 to run a diagnostic when I just payed that plus $650 to get it fixed a few weeks ago. The temp gage has been going back and forth from 190-240. But yesterday the check engine light came on, on top of all that. Im thinking I need to get a new coolant temp sensor?

]]> By: BARRY DAVIS http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216140 BARRY DAVIS Fri, 05 Mar 2010 02:52:57 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216140 HI I HAVE A 2006 PASSAT 2.0T engine coolant SYSTEM PROFORMANCE CODE CAME ON. MACHANIC SAYS IT'S THE THERMOSTAT BUT HEATER WORKS FINE CARE DOESNT RUN HOT TEMP STAYS AT 200, NO SMELL AT ALL IS THIS A COMMON PROBLEM, OH ALMOST FORGOT ALSO RECIEVED EVAP LEAK CODE HAD SECOND OPION AND EVAP LEAK CODE WAS GONE DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAL WHATS GOING ON HI I HAVE A 2006 PASSAT 2.0T engine coolant SYSTEM PROFORMANCE CODE CAME ON. MACHANIC SAYS IT’S THE THERMOSTAT BUT HEATER WORKS FINE CARE DOESNT RUN HOT TEMP STAYS AT 200, NO SMELL AT ALL IS THIS A COMMON PROBLEM, OH ALMOST FORGOT ALSO RECIEVED EVAP LEAK CODE HAD SECOND OPION AND EVAP LEAK CODE WAS GONE DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAL WHATS GOING ON

]]> By: Felix http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216100 Felix Thu, 04 Mar 2010 00:06:26 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216100 Hi, I own a VW 2008 Touareg It has agency record and has 30.000 Km , and today the CEL was ON after a whole day parked car, and the shift gear lights on the screen went all on at the same time I have no info on what shift I'm driving but the car works fine, and it makes the gear shifting ok. Does somebody have any Idea what can be wrong with my car? Thanks Hi, I own a VW 2008 Touareg It has agency record and has 30.000 Km , and today the CEL was ON after a whole day parked car, and the shift gear lights on the screen went all on at the same time I have no info on what shift I’m driving but the car works fine, and it makes the gear shifting ok. Does somebody have any Idea what can be wrong with my car?
Thanks

]]> By: scott schmouder http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-216006 scott schmouder Sun, 28 Feb 2010 04:31:57 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-216006 hi i am scott i have 1999 volkswagon beetle the problem is when i fill it up with gas you have to hold down the gas petel down so you can get it started . the car will show no check engine light i have all ready changed the engine coolant air temperature sensor still does the same thing thanks hi i am scott i have 1999 volkswagon beetle the problem is when i fill it up with gas you have to hold down the gas petel down so you can get it started . the car will show no check engine light i have all ready changed the engine coolant air temperature sensor still does the same thing
thanks

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-215993 Dan Volkens Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:20:48 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-215993 Hi Judy, if the dealer did the job right, they would have scanned the computer codes to find out what's going on. So I would recommend trying a different dealer/service station and have them scan your codes first. Then they and you will know what repair is needed. It may well be just a sensor, but that sensor could need to be replaced. Hi Judy, if the dealer did the job right, they would have scanned the computer codes to find out what’s going on. So I would recommend trying a different dealer/service station and have them scan your codes first. Then they and you will know what repair is needed. It may well be just a sensor, but that sensor could need to be replaced.

]]> By: Dan Volkens http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/comment-page-8/#comment-215992 Dan Volkens Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:18:41 +0000 http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/07/15/check-engine-light-double-whammy/#comment-215992 Hey Brenda, congrats on your purchase. The CEL (check engine light) can go off for a myriad of reasons, but one of the most common is for bad coilpacks, which is that ignition coil replacement you mentioned. The first order of business however is to have the computer codes scanned so the service dept know exactly what the problem is, then can go from there. Good luck! Hey Brenda, congrats on your purchase. The CEL (check engine light) can go off for a myriad of reasons, but one of the most common is for bad coilpacks, which is that ignition coil replacement you mentioned. The first order of business however is to have the computer codes scanned so the service dept know exactly what the problem is, then can go from there. Good luck!

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